Door Seal

[tbrom]

Just wondering where if anyone knows where I can get a new door seal for my 65 Ambassador. I have looked a couple of places but with little luck.
Thanks
Tbrom

[BIGED52]

Tbrom, Although InlandRV has the original style rubber seal that was used by the factory it isn't the best seal available now. I purchased the door seal that Airstream is currently installing on the 2007 models to replace the dry rotted rubber seal that is I think the same seal as on your 65'. Flat retangular stock with two rubber barbs that fold flat as the seal is compressed by the door closing. The new seal is silicon/butyl (to resist rot) and has a "D" shaped configuration (air space in the center). It also has a adhesive tape strip on the flat side of the "D". This means no gooey/messy 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive to deal with. It is slightly wider than the original rubber seal but fits the door just fine and creates a better seal against the door frame on my trailer. It was ordered by my dealer (from Jackson Center) and I had it in a week. I paid by the foot plus shipping but, that would be the same with InlandRV if you bought the original type seal or the new seal. IMHO this new type seal will last longer, is easier to install, and looks and works better than the original type. Hope this helps you to a better solution for the seal on your coach. Ed

[LI Pets]

That sounds like the way to go.

Do you have a part #

How about a pic?

[BIGED52]

Originally Posted by Lipets

That sounds like the way to go.

Do you have a part #

How about a pic?

Bob, No picture capability as of now but the part description for Airstream is: Comp Door Seal @ 0.70 per foot and the part number is: 365232 then I as paid tax and S&H. Hope it works for you too! Ed

[tbrom]

The new seal at .70$/ft sound like the way to go. Thanks for the tip. It seems like all my floor troubles are around the doors and hatch areas so an upgrade hopefully is a good thing.
Tbrom

[CaddyGrn]

Originally Posted by BIGED52

Tbrom, I purchased the door seal that Airstream is currently installing on the 2007 models to replace the dry rotted rubber seal that is I think the same seal as on your 65'. Ed

Do you have any pictures of your door seal and how it looks with the door open? Have you had any closure problems? We have tried all kinds of things with our 1963 including the most spendy seals that were supposed to be for our year... but had to chop off our rubber door seal just hours after installation while on the road because the door kept popping open. $$$ down the drain... we have tried a wide variety of door seals and nothing has really worked like we want. Would be interested in seeing yours... and hearing if you have any other issues with the seal. Thanks.

Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis)

[BIGED52]

CaddyGrn, No pictures of the seal as I don't have a digital camera yet. However the seal works just fine on my 67' door and it closes just fine....and it stays closed. I will see if John (63air) will let me look at his 63' to see if this new style seal will fit his trailer entrance door. I will let you know. Ed

[BIGED52]

CaddyGrn, I will meet 63air at his trailer tommorrow at 10 AM CST to see if the door seal will work on a 63' door. On the phone with John tonight he told me that it is possible to install the seal that you used in the wrong configuration. He said that he would've installed his wrong had he not re-read the install instructions. He is also interested in seeing if my seal from 2007 A/S will fit on his 63' trailer! I will report back tommorrow as to the test. I want to thank the mods for putting the thread back open to allow posts. Ed

[Chuck]

while you're at it, see if it'll fit a '73.

seriously, take measurements...maybe it'll work on others, too. I've had a hard time getting my "correct" seal to stick to the door frame. no problems with the same seal and attachment method on any of the windows, but on the door, it just doesn't wanna stick.

[BIGED52]

Well folks, I was MIA today at 10:00 when 63air was going to meet with me at his trailer. I didn't get there until 11:20 and by then he was gone. I will have to see if he can re-schedule for another time. I was delayed with a family emergency and didn't leave the hospital ER until 11:00. My grandson twisted his ankle at school and I had to do the ambulance duty to take him for an xray. Luck was with him though as it is only a sprang. Hope to re-do the test fit soon. I will keep you all posted. Also, Chuck...If I can find a 73' to measure and test I will check it out for you too! Ed

[safetyman]

Sounds like the door seal your talking about would work on just about any airstream door....I have a 69 and same problem..old and rotting rubber....wonder if this could be used on the windows as well...would make a simple job to replace rubber........where did you say you purchased this D rubber from, if I can't locate locally, I can all and have your dealer order for me............................Thanks!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by safetyman

Sounds like the door seal your talking about would work on just about any airstream door....I have a 69 and same problem..old and rotting rubber....wonder if this could be used on the windows as well...would make a simple job to replace rubber........where did you say you purchased this D rubber from, if I can't locate locally, I can all and have your dealer order for me............................Thanks!

Use caution when changing to a different gasket from the original, especially the entrance door.

We replace dozens of doors each year because of the lock striker bolt or the stricker pocket has become excessively worn and by using the wrong gasket.

Doors can and will fly open from bouncing and simple vibration, but they also will fly open if the entrance door gasket is applying excessive pressure between the door and door jamb.

Some locks will actually open when that gasket pressure becomes excessive.

Before a person decides to change a door gasket to a different type, they might check around and see what the potential negative results may be.

Granted the "D" gasket is a few cents cheaper, but it adds considerable pressure to the door lock striker bolt and the striker plate. Should the door fly open in transit, it will cost a considerable amount of money to have it repaired and/or replaced.

You may wish to forgo the few cents savings, so that you don't take the risk of the entrance door opening in transit.

Of course, if Airstream reversed the door hinge, the problem would not be an issue.

But then, the front window would be blocked when the door was opened.

All the original door gaskets are available from parts stocking dealers.

The "D" gasket does work great on opening windows, since they cannot open by themselves, like a entrance door can. We have used it on windows from 1990 on back into the late 50's with great success.

Use caution when installing the "D" gasket when making a square corner. Do not cut and miter the gasket at the corners, but simply make a small radius corner, along with using the 3M super weatherstrip adhesive which out performs other adhesives.

Andy


Andy

[BIGED52]

Of coarse, I can only speak from my experience with my door but the old style gasket is thicker than the D style gasket when both are compressed. So I don't see where the new gasket would be putting extra pressure on the door latch or striker plate. My trailer has the deadbolt mounted above the door handle and that also helps to keep the door from coming open in transit. However, I would also agree with Andy to be cautious when changing any old style part to a newer part. Do some homework before just blindly replacing any part with something different. The A/S purests would say to stay original and use what the factory originally designed the trailer to use. That was good then and this can be good now thinking is fine. I like to think that if it works better and is less involved with install and maint. that maybe it will work for others too. Not trying to convert anyone just putting some new ideas out for consideration. Ed

[2000 Excella]

Thanks Andy for clearing up what I was questioning. I did order the door seal for my 2000 Excella today from Inland and had received what I thought would work from my local Airstream Dealer but was too thick. I am told by the Airstream help line that the new part number that they are shipping out for this model is #365232 and this differs from the part number at your shop which is #45327. What they now use is thicker and they are telling me that it will take time for the seal to seat without slamming the door. I am concerned enough to change it again to the original part because the door shuts so tight and has to be slammed that I thought it may damage something. I compared the end view of what I removed and what I replaced and the original is shaped a little different and would compress easier over time than what I put on it.I would rather prevent a costly repair bill or failure at a later date as well!