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01-31-2007, 09:27 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Fallbrook
, California
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 7
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Door not closing with stabilizer in place
I have a 25 front bedroom LS,SE. I have had problems closing my door when I set the rear stabilizer on the door side of the AS. On my last trip I was parked on a pad that had a slight slope (running down from the rear of the AS to the front) I leveled the AS then set the stabilizers. The door was what I would call out of plumb. The bottom of door extended away from the body by approximately 1/2 inch and would not close. I backed off the stabilizer until the stabilizer was off the ground and the door came back in plumb. I am suprised that having the stabilzer set would move the door out of plumb. I read in my owners manual that (page c-3) when leveling on rough terrain use jacks and the position of the jacks is indicated in a drawing on the same page. Are Hydraulic jacks typically used to level on uneven pads? Has anyone reported this problem in the past discussions?
Comments and Advice appreciated
KM
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01-31-2007, 09:46 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1994 30' Excella
Mississauga
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,242
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The stabilizers are to be used only to prevent movement in the trailer when you walk around etc.
You don't use them to get the trailer level.
If I get one of mine too tight it has the same effect.
Al
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01-31-2007, 09:54 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,376
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Hi, my understanding of leveling the trailer is to level side to side with the wheels. You may need blocks or something else to raise a wheel or wheels on the low side. Then the tongue jack will level your trailer, front to back. Then lower the stabilizers to "Stabilize. Done!
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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01-31-2007, 10:01 PM
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#4
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USN/LAPD Retired
2005 25' Safari
North Las Vegas
, United States
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 850
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Rear stabelizer goes at the "back" of the trailer. not the side. If you want to eliminate movement then get some sizzer chocks that go between the tires.
R/
Safari-Rick
__________________
2007 Dodge Ram Quadcab 6.7L Diesel w/jakebrake
"Better to have more then you need, then need more then you have because you don't have enough!"
AIR #: 8129
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01-31-2007, 10:01 PM
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#5
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INSANITY CENTRAL
1986 32' Excella
Airstream Funeral Coach
Citrus Heights
, California
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,108
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ditto big al
__________________
www.popasmoke.com
Proud Appellation American
Vine View Heights is now closed.
YETI ( 65 Quart )
IGLOO (Ice Cube, 50 Quart )
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01-31-2007, 10:02 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhawk25
I have a 25 front bedroom LS,SE. I have had problems closing my door when I set the rear stabilizer on the door side of the AS. On my last trip I was parked on a pad that had a slight slope (running down from the rear of the AS to the front) I leveled the AS then set the stabilizers. The door was what I would call out of plumb. The bottom of door extended away from the body by approximately 1/2 inch and would not close. I backed off the stabilizer until the stabilizer was off the ground and the door came back in plumb. I am suprised that having the stabilzer set would move the door out of plumb. I read in my owners manual that (page c-3) when leveling on rough terrain use jacks and the position of the jacks is indicated in a drawing on the same page. Are Hydraulic jacks typically used to level on uneven pads? Has anyone reported this problem in the past discussions?
Comments and Advice appreciated
KM
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The Bal jacks are for stabilizing only. They will break if you use them for leveling.
For leveling, use some 2 x 6's. They are cheap and work great.
Andy
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01-31-2007, 10:42 PM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 265
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The ones from Camping world used for leveling side to side are just classier and not expensive and come with their own carrying bag.
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01-31-2007, 10:56 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Huntington Beach
, California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,293
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I agree
Quote:
Originally Posted by Excella3287
The ones from Camping world used for leveling side to side are just classier and not expensive and come with their own carrying bag.
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Not to mention no splinters.
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01-31-2007, 11:46 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1960 22' Safari
in the wilderness
, The great Mojave Desert
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,077
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I use scrap 4x4's. Not as fancy as Timemachines but if I don't need them I can always toss them in the campfire.
__________________
I'd rather be boon docking in the desert.
WBCCI 3344 FCU
AIR# 13896
CA 4
Yes, we have courtesy parking for you. About an hour North of Los Angeles.
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02-01-2007, 07:23 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1986 25' Sovereign
Southern Middle
, Tennessee
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excella3287
The ones from Camping world used for leveling side to side are just classier and not expensive and come with their own carrying bag.
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The yellow blocks from Camping World broke on me the second time out. I've seen the orange ones (can't remember the manufacturer) which seem to be of better quality. I'm cheap so I use 2X6's or 2X8's to level.
__________________
Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
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02-01-2007, 07:31 PM
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#11
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 265
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Leveling Blocks
Breaking...........I've been using the same blocks for years and a chip hear and there ,my fault but still usable. Camping world has them on sale right now a package of 4 $14.99 a package of 10 $19.99....hmmm that's $1.99 each.
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