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Old 07-15-2009, 08:29 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1975 27' Overlander
Salt Lake City , Utah
Posts: 33

Wink Door lock appears to be broken and locked from inside too!

Hi guys,
I apologize if this is a silly one, but my lock appears to be broken on my 75 Overlander. I crawled inside one of the windows...that was a humourous task, to unlock from the inside, but it won't unlock from the inside. What do I do now. I was hoping to unscrew the locking components, but the screen door seems to be in the way as well. There does appear to be two screws I can get to, but will unscrewing these help release the lock from the door. Not sure how the whole thing works. Can anyone help..should I try to fiddle with it, or just call a locksmith? Just a little confused on how to unlock the door from the inside...locked in Nothing will seem to budge. P.S. If there is already a thread for this let me know! Could not find one.

All help is MUCH appreciated.

Lucy
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:41 PM   #2
3 Rivet Member
Profile:  1960 24' Tradewind
Riverside , California
Posts: 103

If the inside and outside handles moving freely without any resistance the horizontal locking shaft has lost the cam on the end, this is what pushes the bolt back. If you still have some handle resistance but they still won't move the bolt the vertical locking shaft is not releasing from the bolt, try moving the inside handle while moving the small inside locking shaft, it should "click" to either lock or unlock as there is a small spring loaded ball bearing pushing on the notches in the shaft. If none of this works you may be able to push/work the bolt open from the inside with a stiff putty knife or something similar. The original lock is still available as are all the repair parts necessary to rebuild a KT lock......There is a replacement kit available that uses a conventional lock with a built in deadbolt.

Greg
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:54 PM   #3
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1975 27' Overlander
Salt Lake City , Utah
Posts: 33

The inside handle as well as locking device is completely locked up. I will try and wiggle things around and see if I get any movement. Any other suggestions on how to dismantle the lock from inside with being unable to move the screen door and no movement in handle or lock form inside.

Thanks!

Lucy
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Old 07-16-2009, 11:52 AM   #4
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Profile:  eatontown , New Jersey
Posts: 19
Blog Entries: 1

Cool how do I get this kit?

....There is a replacement kit available that uses a conventional lock with a built in deadbolt.

Greg[/quote]

My 78 argosy came back from the shop with this piece sheared off the locksmith wants to order a new door assembly... how do I get a kit...
Colonial AS wants to order new also... it looks like a simple repair if i can punch out the lock drum and replace it!
Fred
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Old 07-16-2009, 02:04 PM   #5
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Profile:  eatontown , New Jersey
Posts: 19
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Smile keeler lock

found a rebuild kit at out-of-doors Out-of-Doors Mart MORE Airstream Parts on-line than anyone!!! And we accept PayPal. $58
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Old 07-16-2009, 02:30 PM   #6
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Profile:  1964 26' Overlander
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Anna , Illinois
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Door lock appears to be broken and locked from inside too!

Greetings Lucy!

Something else to try if the above suggestions don't prove out is to consider the way the coach is parked: (my suggestions are based upon a suspicion that the coach may be sitting in such a way that the frame is slighly "torqued" causing the lock to "bind" -- I have had this problem on both of my coaches)
  • If the stabilizer jacks are lowered, releasing the tension on one or more of the jacks may allow the lock to operate.
  • If the coach is parked on a soft surface (bare ground or settling gravel) one side of the coach may have caused the surface to settle more than the other (pulling the coach forward or moving it backward may allow the lock to operate).
  • If your coach is attached to the tow vehicle, the weight distribution bars may be too tightly adjusted or not tensioned the same on both sides causing the lock to "bind". Releasing or termporarily disconnecting the weight distribution bars may allow the lock to operate.
    • Also, if attached to the tow vehicle the nose may be too high causing too much weight to be transferred to the coach's rear axle causing a slight frame torquing. If this may be the case, unhitching and adjusting the tongue jack so that the coach is approximately level may allow the lock to operate.
    • If the tow vehicle and trailer are in such an orientation that the coupler forms the base of a "V" or is the fulcrum of a sharp angle the combination of the angle and weight distribution bars may be causing a problem -- try moving to a more level location and the lock may become operable.
I know this theory may sound rather far-fetched, but I have experience this slight torquing of the frame on both my '64 Overlander and '78 Argosy such that the door is either impossible to unlock or close and latch once opened. It is a longshot, but worth considering.

Kevin

P.S.: Another possibility, and I don't know a probable quick (temporary) solution if this should happen to be the case. It is possible for an outrigger to fail which can cause a door alignment issue (pay particular attention to hinge side) -- look at the banana wrap for a vertical slit or vertical bump which is one evidence of a failing outrigger. My Overlander had an outrigger fail very near the hinge side of the door which caused the door to bind creating lock difficulties.

Also, if the floor is soft in the door opening which isn't terribly unusual in any vintage Airstream, it may have allowed enough settling to cause the lock to bind. Again if this is the issue, I am not certain what should be done as a quick (temporary) solution.
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WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359
AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:23 PM   #7
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Profile:  1994 34' Limited
Westchester Cty. NY , & Miami FL
Posts: 1,382

you might try pulling/pushing on the door to see if it releases.
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:09 AM   #8
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Profile:  1975 25' Tradewind
Phoenix , Arizona
Posts: 8,023
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The lock can not be removed with the door closed. Besides the two screws on the inside, there is another on the inside lip of the door. It is possible that the piece that slides into the jam has a grove worn into it and is keeping the piece from moving. This is common on these locks. Try putting pressure on the door (push it more closed) and then try the handle.

Here is a good diagram of all the parts in this lock:
Airstream Lock 1970-77
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:18 AM   #9
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Profile:  1975 31' Sovereign
, various
Posts: 359

Is the Locking pin (knurled inside lock latch #3037) there? It is next to the inside handle toward the front of trailer. Or do you just have a hole there where it used to be?
If there will it move (in & out)?
I agree that (if you are lucky) something is just in a friction bind. The pushing on the outside door (near the handle) while trying to lift the opening handle is good place to start. But I suppose you tried that to begin with?? Guess you're getting pretty good at diving thru that window.
Call a locksmith at last resort IMHO. Why?
Well, there might be a huge up-charge for window diving by him. < g >
But remember the lock is a $500 dollar item. You do not want him drilling out the key cylinder or in any way wrecking the lock or bending the door etc.
Keep this thread informed and we will work you thru it and if so, save you ALOT of money. At very least wait for Inland Andy to advise before calling locksmith.
Just ask and he will appear soon. Sort of like Aladdin's lamp.

If the latch pin mentioned above is missing, there is an easy replacement using just a common bolt. Post back and someone will find info on that.

Oh and Lucy change your profile when you can, It appears that you are not sttill "currently looking". And welcome to the wacky world of $500 door locks and other weird '70s stuff.
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:14 PM   #10
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1975 27' Overlander
Salt Lake City , Utah
Posts: 33

Thanks eveyone. I will try your suggestions and see what happens. I am going to try and take some pics to. Maybe that will help. There is a locking pin still there, but it's won't budge either. I will try having someone push from the outside while I am locked inside Cross your fingers that is the trick! Expensive part yikes. Thanks for the support. I will get back to you ASAP! Will change my profile too!

Lucy
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Old 08-28-2009, 03:08 PM   #11
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1975 27' Overlander
Salt Lake City , Utah
Posts: 33

Still no luck...

Hi Everyone,

I have tried all the options without any luck. Next on to the locksmith. Are there any fellow airstreamers in SLC that can help? Any other advice is greatly appreciated!

Lucy
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Old 10-12-2009, 04:05 PM   #12
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1975 27' Overlander
Salt Lake City , Utah
Posts: 33

Just got lock loose from door. Can anyone take a look at pics?

Hi Everyone,

It's been a while, but I finally got my trailer lock off, after a long struggle. Long story short, I now have the lock in hand and I think the main problem might be a stuck "shaft." Not sure if that is the lingo or not for this part, but appears there is some corrosion so the piece will not go up or down when the cylinder is turned. Do I need a new shaft or will some WD-40 do the trick to loosen it up. Does the whole lock need to be shipped off to Inland RV for repair? Any help is WELL appreciated as I am trying to beat the winter rolling in here soon.

Thanks SO much in advance,

Lucy P
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Old 10-12-2009, 11:20 PM   #13
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Profile:  eatontown , New Jersey
Posts: 19
Blog Entries: 1

wd 40

spray it up all over in and out and wiggle and turn and jiggle iall partz for a while than again in the am! good luck
fred

Last edited by fabu007; 10-12-2009 at 11:40 PM. Reason: spray not pray tho ya can prey iffen yall want
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