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Old 03-29-2009, 04:46 PM   #1
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Door Hinge becoming unhung, any advice?

Hey all.
The bottom door hinge on my FC is separating from the body, and taking some of the aluminum with it. My initial Macguver instinct is to drill out the rivets, put up some sort of patch on the skin, and re-rivet it back on. I'm hoping to get some better ideas if you've got them. I can still close and lock the door (with some drag and pulling) but I'm not sure how long it will hold up.
A visual aid for your viewing pleasure:
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Old 03-29-2009, 04:51 PM   #2
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un-hinged

Hey Kity,
I think you hit the nail on the head.

You might consider placing a plate behind the skin and make a sandwich, if you have access to the inside.

Good luck and post some post fotos.

Michael
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Old 03-29-2009, 04:56 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by kitycatalina View Post
Hey all.
The bottom door hinge on my FC is separating from the body, and taking some of the aluminum with it. My initial Macguver instinct is to drill out the rivets, put up some sort of patch on the skin, and re-rivet it back on. I'm hoping to get some better ideas if you've got them. I can still close and lock the door (with some drag and pulling) but I'm not sure how long it will hold up.
A visual aid for your viewing pleasure:

Got some bad news for you. The hinges are steel, not stainless, you have dissimilar metal reaction. The aluminum body is being eaten away. The only way is to remove the hinges, have them chromed or replaced with stainless (available at Vintage Trailer Supply) and then re-attach to new aluminum. I had the same problem on my 1954 Liner. One door is back on and I am waiting for the second set of hinges from the chrome shop. I put a new strip of aluminum on the outside and another strip inside (the was one additional piece originally, now four including the old corroded, original piece.

To get at the back you need to remove some rivets on the inside skin. I buck riveted the hinges to the body and the door, where I could not get at the back on the door I used olympic rather than pop rivets.

Bill
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Old 03-29-2009, 05:42 PM   #4
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Too true.

I see you are in Austin. You may want to contact utee94 if you need hands-on help, or advice. His work is fabulous, and he's local to you.

(Not trying to volunteer your time, Marcus. I just saw that this is a new member with a nasty issue)

Good luck, Rich
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Old 03-29-2009, 09:24 PM   #5
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Seems your door hinge was replaced at some time... pop rivets are not orginal. I'd drill out those remaining hinges... and clean the skin. If it's actually intact, and it's just the rivets that came apart, then try and take off the interior skin and buck rivet that strap back on... if that's not possible, then at least use some Olympic rivets... don't use those pop style rivets.. it's allowing water to get right in and hasten the demise of the metal there... and probably leaking on your floor too.

If the top hinge also has these pop rivets, I'd replace those too.
Marc
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Old 03-29-2009, 09:32 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy View Post
Seems your door hinge was replaced at some time... pop rivets are not orginal. I'd drill out those remaining hinges... and clean the skin. If it's actually intact, and it's just the rivets that came apart, then try and take off the interior skin and buck rivet that strap back on... if that's not possible, then at least use some Olympic rivets... don't use those pop style rivets.. it's allowing water to get right in and hasten the demise of the metal there... and probably leaking on your floor too.

If the top hinge also has these pop rivets, I'd replace those too.
Marc
Marc,

I disagree, my four hinges looked just like that, all the rivets were pop rivets. As I stated earlier, I replaced them with buck and olympic rivets.

Bill
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Old 03-29-2009, 10:59 PM   #7
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It may be original, but it's still wrong. pop rivets and steel/ aluminum combo are all bad medicine.

I think Inland has some hinges on sale right now. Maybe you'll luck out and they will be your type!


Good luck, Rich
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Old 03-29-2009, 11:02 PM   #8
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Kity, I'm new to this forum, and no expert. But I have a very original one owner 55 cruiser. I went out and looked at mine, and unless 55 is different than 54- Mine are buck riveted in two vertical rows and that section of the hinge is not rectangular but is slightly tapered towards the end. The rivets are the same as the body panel rivets next to it. Just my 2 cents- hope it helps. This is my first post, I hope it works. Bruce 1955 cruiser
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:08 AM   #9
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Thanks all for the advice.
I have some Olympic rivets that I'll use, so that's no problem. As far as I know the ones on there now are original. All things considered, not bad for 50+ years, huh?
Any tips on drilling out the old ones?
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Old 03-30-2009, 10:45 AM   #10
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Don't use too large of a drill bit!

And welcome Woodpicker! It's good to have you with us.
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:06 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by kitycatalina View Post
Thanks all for the advice.
I have some Olympic rivets that I'll use, so that's no problem. As far as I know the ones on there now are original. All things considered, not bad for 50+ years, huh?
Any tips on drilling out the old ones?
You should paint the back of the hinge to separate the two types of metal from contact. You probably have the same corrosion on the door.

Bill
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:54 AM   #12
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You should paint the back of the hinge to separate the two types of metal from contact. You probably have the same corrosion on the door.

Bill
Yep, I was thinking that would be a good idea.
I don't think the replacement hinges are going to work unfortunately.
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Old 03-31-2009, 10:52 AM   #13
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Yep, I was thinking that would be a good idea.
I don't think the replacement hinges are going to work unfortunately.

kitycatalina,

Why not?

Bill
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Old 03-31-2009, 08:27 PM   #14
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kitycatalina,

Why not?

Bill
They look quite a bit different from mine. I'll have to get out the specs and compare, hopefully I'm wrong.
It's a bit soggy out there now, we've had rain and even some hail last week. Good thing she was under cover.
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