Door closing

[1Boyscout]

Got 2015 AS INTL SERENITY.

Is it normal to have to almost slam the door for it to close all the way?.

[Rocinante]

Congrats on the new Airstream!

Couple of thoughts regarding the door:
* Check the latch post in the frame of the door to make sure it's tight and looks properly positioned. Ours was initially loose, and until we realized that it was requiring quite a slam to fully close the door.
* From the outside, to close our door I can gently swing the door around, close and then engage the first latch. Then with a gentle shove right at the latch point, I can get the second latch to engage, thus truly closing the door. Easy and pretty quiet.
* From the inside, it takes more of a "slam" to get both latches engaged. Certainly more effort than with our friend's SOB, where the door just clicks shut. It's also slammy enough to wake the other person in the trailer. That's the "bank vault" door people talk about, I guess.

Something else to check: While sitting inside your trailer with the door closed, latched and locked, look around the edges of the door to determine whether the door is properly aligned with the trailer. If you see any air gaps, you'll want to have the dealer take care of that - you want a tight seal all the way around. Our trailer had air gaps around the door as large as 1" at the bottom of the door on the latch side until we had the dealer take the door off and basically re-fab the darn thing until it achieved a tighter seal. All better now.

[Johnco]

Check out this link, factory information on adjusting the door.

Airstream How To: Adjusting Trailer Main Doors - YouTube

First thing I would do is hit the catch with some silicone, most of the time that's all you need.

[Rocinante]

Hey, great video, thanks for posting! The video suggested graphite lube because it doesn't attract dust after application. I have a can of spray graphite which is great, but it can leave black stains (e.g. graphite powder) so aim carefully and wipe it off quickly if it goes where you don't want it.

[idroba]

Tell the dealer and have them fix it under warrantee. I had to do this twice with my 2014 FC 20' but now it is much better. Also, the seals will get softer with age and it may get better on it's own, but the main adjustment should be done by the warrantee and dealer.

[richinny]

mine had to be slammed since new. i was told it was 'normal'. the screen door always seemed to be fighting the outer door. now the door hinges are loose. i'd have the door properly adjusted before you have more problems. a properly adjusted door does not have to be slammed!

[gandttimes]

I am having the same trouble with our 2014 25fb and it is due to go in for warranty when we get back from our 4 month checkout trip.
It has been bad all along, requiring a bit more of a push than I like, but last night I noticed it was even worse with an audible clunk when I popped the latch.
This morning I thought back to anything different happening and I remembered that I cranked down the stabilizer on the right rear yesterday. So I loosened the tension on the stabilizer and sure enough the clunk went away.
Check to make sure that the stabilizers aren't forced and also check when the stabilizers are up. It will give a complete story for when you talk to your dealer.


George

[jcanavera]

We've seen folks who have had door issues and usually the complaint is after they are set up. If so, then check out your stabilizers as noted in the post above. If you have one cranked down exerting too much force, the frame will flex enough to bind the door.

If your door is hard to close when the trailer is detached from your tow vehicle with the stabilizer jacks up, you need to check this out further and some door adjustments to the door might be in order.

Jack

[Wingeezer]

Mine has been like that since we bought the trailer (used). I happened to be at Jackson Centre for other work and mentioned it to them hoping to have it fixed but was told it was normal.

Still doesn't seem right to me, I often wind up slamming it twice before it latches !

I think it does vary depending on how much I crank up the stabilizers or spring bars. I am aware that the stabilizers should just be snugged up and that is what I do.

Brian

[dznf0g]

Once I read up and learned the proper adjusting techniques, I can close my door, open about a foot, with two fingers. Gasket contacts all the way around and no air nor water leaks. Sounds almost like a car door. Takes some time to learn, but worth it. Has stayed in adjustment for 2 years now.

HOWEVER, improper stabilizer jack "torquing" will cause a twist (especially in longer units) and the door will be harder to close. I deploy with my Makita drill with the clutch set to 3 or 4 and all are evenly planted.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by 1Boyscout

Got 2015 AS INTL SERENITY.

Is it normal to have to almost slam the door for it to close all the way?.

No it's not. Are your stabilizers down?

If your going to attempt a door adjustment according to the AS Vid....do so with your trailer level fore & aft, side to side.......Stabilizers UP! AMHIK

Frame twist is a bummer.

Bob