Distorted door frame

[Pahaska]

I have known for quite a while that the entry door was not sealing well at the bottom; recently I could sometimes see a sliver of light with the door closed and latched. I figured it just required the old "2x4 and bend" routine to align it. Consequently, when I took the Intl to the dealer this morning to get the leaking city water input replaced, I asked that they align the door and replace a bit of trim with the chrome peeling off while it was there.

Wrong Nothing is as simple as it seems.

The door frame was installed bowed out such that the rubber seal on the door never has more than barely touched the flat on the door frame. Apparently, the contraction from the cold the last few days made it not touch at all.

The dealer will have to drill out the rivets, pound the door frame straight, and re-rivet it. They are calling the factory to get the go-ahead on the job.

[Pahaska]

I spent some time this afternoon looking at the door situation while the furnace dried out the carpet.

I think it is less a distorted door frame than it is that the bottom hinge is too far in on the door such that the door is tight against the frame at bottom left and loose at bottom right.

[Chas]

Pahaska,

Hope you get it all straightened out, a question though, I think you probably have one of the newest units in our forum and yet you seem to have a lot of problems. Are all the new A/S units this problematic or are you just more on top of everything? I had a brand new SOB unit and don't think I had near the troubles you have experienced. Not trying to depress you but I really liked the A/S International CCD I saw at the dealer and wondered if I were to get one would I be in the same boat as you? Not exactly sure what yours cost but I think a CCD is 30 to 40k, a lot of money!!


Chas

[Pahaska]

I'm taking the A/S in Monday to have the leak fixed (again) and the door looked at. Apparently, according to their service writer, the factory wants some photos to see what is wrong, and may decide to replace the entire door.

Actually, photos won't show much. The door barely seals in warm weather and the seal misses the jamb by about 1/8" when it gets cold and everything contracts. Looking in from outside, not very much can be seen. Looking out from inside, I can see the streak of daylight and feel the draft of cold air.

This time, I'm going to get their main tech guy in tow and have a discussion of how to fix these things (the leak and the door) right.

And, yes, Chas, I sure have had a lot of problems. More by far than on my Trailmanor and Scamp that preceded the A/S. Given the price and the reputation, I'm disappointed; not in the trailer, just in the build quality.

[lynn]

I doubt very much if your door jamb is the cause of your door not sealing. The main door itself can change shape due to opening and closing.If it is the lower bottom right corner that gaps, have someone hold the door at the main door latch while you pull the bottom corner toward you(you would be facing the inside of door)
it may shear off a few interior rivets but they can be easily replaced. Removing the whole door would not be recommended, it would be harder to make adjustments with the door removed and verify them.

[74Argosy24MH]

When they take the picture have it dark inside and a bright light (trouble light, etc.) at the bottom outside. Should show the factory a gap and they will know what they are dealing with.

John

[Pahaska]

The contour of the door is not the problem. That was what I thought initially, but it is not the case. The door is contoured perfectly to the trailer.

I have been looking at it a lot and the problem seems to be that the door is cocked in the frame with the corner at the bottom hinge tight against the frame and the forward lower lower corner not quite reaching the frome on that side to make a seal. The bottom of the door appears to be too far aft by about 3/8" in relation to the frame.

The problem may actually be in the lower hinge attachment to either the door or the trailer.

If the door could reach the jam, it would seal just fine.

I'll know more tomorrow.

[Pahaska]

Just brought it home so that I won't have to hook up in the forcasted rain tomorrow morning. While it is here, I took some photos that show the problem.

This is the lower hinge. Notice that the door almost touches the frame at the very bottom.

[Pahaska]

In the top rear corner, there is a lot of space between the door frame and the door itself. Not too much, though, since I can't see any light there.

[Pahaska]

Ah. here's the rub!

The door is fairly close to the frame at the very bottom (although there is more gap than at the lower rear corner), but the frame visibly bows away from the door as it goes upwards. Here's where the seal does not touch the door jamb.

The dealer wanted to drill out the rivets, form (read "bend") the door frame closer to the door, and re-rivert the frame.

The streak of light I can see from inside tapers to nothing at the very bottom and widens as it goes up. At about the latch, the seal touches again and there is no more light above that.

The door is not distorted outwards. The seal would touch the jamb if it could reach the jamb.

My analysis is a slightly cocked door along with a frame that bows slightly outward. Neither thing would probably cause a problem by itself. The combination of the two is the problem.

[Pahaska]

I tried to make it big to show the problem.

[Pahaska]

Took the trailer to the dealer this morning. Head tech looked at it and decided dto try to readjust the hinges to see if he could get the door to seal all the way around. I give him about a 50% chance of success since the lower right corner is already almost touching the frame.

The tech agreed to reroute the tubing to the city water inlet. He wasn't as concerned about the current lashup as I am, but he didn't see it pressurized to 65 psi and with the temperature just above freezing. He thought the nylon nut was probably usable that is visibly either crossthreaded or stripped. I told him I wouldn't stand for it to be in my trailer. He did agree to replace it then. What he doesn't know is that I sawed a notch in one of the wings of the nut so that I'll know whether it is changed or not.

[74Argosy24MH]

For the soaking the trailer took they better change the nut. I can't imagine Airstream is that much different than any other manufacturer, the dealer bills back parts and labor to the factory for warranty work. It would be inexescubale to put a customer through flooding his trailer twice for a few bucks worth of parts.

John

[Pahaska]

Called the dealer this morning, but the tech couldn't come to the phone. They closed for the Holiday at noon.

All I got from the service writer was that the first attempt to fix the door didn't do the job (as I had pretty much predicted). I think I'll go down there Thursday first thing and see for myself what is going on.

I'm concerned that they are goint to try to relocate the doorframe and punch in a bunch more rivets so that I have to look at a patch job everytime I open the door for as longs as I own the trailer. I tried to make it clear to the warrenty person at Airstream that I don't want a patch job on a brand new trailer.

I'm a patient guy, but I'm getting real close to writing the President of Airstream about this lemon.

[John]

John,

Since the door is functional, how about waiting until this coming spring and bring back to Airstream and have them repair it? At least it would be repaired by those who built it!

I know this wouldn't be an ideal answer, but it may be better than having someone tying to monkey it back in place.

Sounds like your redesign of the dinnette will make for some comfortable sitting as well as eating.

Good Luck either way- John

[Pahaska]

But it's a turrible long way to pull it up there.

In the mean time, I want to use the trailer and I'm concerned that if I have to tow through rain, or even parked out there in the rain and wind, it's going to suck in water around the door seals and cause me more water problems.

The first assembly for my new dining table is in the clamps in my workshop right now. It is the slide assembly that permits the table to fold out of the way when not in use. I'm waiting right now for the laminate to be delivered.

I think this table is pretty unique. I'll post some photos when it is complete. I really love to build furniture.

[Pahaska]

Picked the A/S up at the dealer this afternoon.

They adjusted the hinges and swapped the rubber seal on the door for a different profile seal. Same width seal, but a little higher on the outer edge. I had to hold the old and new seal up together to tell the difference. I have to admit that it looks pretty good. I closed the door on a piece of paper and the seal is quite firm.

Time will tell, but at the moment, I would have to say that it looks good.