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Old 11-29-2004, 04:50 PM   #1
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Deadbolt Installation???

Wow - I thought there would be a lot more under this section.

Our door handle works but does not lock - we have not worried about it till now. But we will be travelling down to the states soon and may leave the rig unattended while we walk the dogs.

We have priced out a new replacement from you know where - not an option at this point.

Will be getting a lock smith to have a look at the door lock for us see if he can do anything - but the deadbolt would be an addition regardless - so we want to make it as "blended" as possible.

Has anyone installed a keyed dead bolt on a late 60's or early 70's model?

Any pictures or advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-29-2004, 05:50 PM   #2
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GT6921.

It is not recommended to add a dead bolt to your cast door frame.

It could snap the first time you slammed the door.

The cost to heli-arc it back together, gets expensive very fast.

Additionally, that door or frame is no longer available.

The lock you need is called an "L-100 Special". It is special because the striker bolt is extended, which is required on your trailer.

They are not expensive (less than $140.00), compared to the 70 to 77 lock that goes for $600.00, per Airstream.

We have shipped over 200 L-100 specials so far this year.

Andy
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Old 11-29-2004, 05:51 PM   #3
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MaxandGeorgia,
My unit has an installed dead bolt, the key part of the dead bolt is installed in the body, the throw bolt has been cut down to about half size. I will post a picture this weekend when I get back to where my AS is. I know that one of the local dealers installs them all the time.

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Old 11-29-2004, 06:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
GT6921.
The lock you need is called an "L-100 Special". It is special because the striker bolt is extended, which is required on your trailer.

They are not expensive (less than $140.00), compared to the 70 to 77 lock that goes for $600.00, per Airstream.

We have shipped over 200 L-100 specials so far this year.

Andy
Thanks for the info Andy - When we first bought her we were quoted that price for the 70's lock - so you know what we mean as far as price - a hotwater tank is first in line and then the univolt (if the capacitors are not the culprit).

200 shipped - does that mean over 200 vintage trailers are being given new locks or do the break easily?

$140.00 sounds very reasonable - however we would pay that much again in shipping and UPS cross boarder brokerage fees.

I found that out the hard way last winter - I purchased something for $40US and it was shipped by UPS and I had to pay $75+ in brokerage fees/taxes. So that sort of puts a kybosh on ordering from you too, as don't you use UPS.

Our best bet will be to wait till we head in to the States I guess. What would your shipping fees be to sa,y Sarasota in February???

Again thanks for the info. (oh by the way there would not be a supplier of that particular lock up here in Canada would there?)

[QUOTEwahoonc]I will post a picture this weekend when I get back to where my AS is.[/QUOTE]

That would be interesting to see. Still might be an option. Not into slaming doors - affraid it might fall off - very gentle with everything inside trailer - as anything Peter seems to touch breaks - light covers, Antenna crank handle.....

PS who is MaxandGeorgia - is that aka PeterandSharon
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Old 11-29-2004, 06:55 PM   #5
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GT6921.

Small packages can be shipped to Canada for $24.00.

Do you possibly have a friend just within our borders? Many Canadians do and have parts shipped to them that way.

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Old 11-29-2004, 06:56 PM   #6
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Uhhh can I plead advanced age at 45 Sorry Sharon and Peter I was replying to couple of threads at the same time and my mind must have slipped a cog Surfing is lots of fun on a cell modem with Firefox I will post the pictures this weekend, but it sounds like you may have a different door frame from mine. My unit is a 75...of course I have one of the high dollar locks CDN or USD

Aaron
mind slipping into the future LOL
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:05 AM   #7
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On welding AL,
I bought a few brazing rods at a local home center (Lowes) that allow you to braze AL with a propane torch.
Tried them and they work great provided you know a little about welding.
The AL heats very fast and you have a very narrow margin of temp. to work with it.
The metal has to be very clean as well......I used a stainless brush to clean it before and during the brazing.
You can spot these rods in the welding supply section, they are white in color and are rather high.
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:47 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT6921
...Has anyone installed a keyed dead bolt on a late 60's or early 70's model?
In more of a philosophy, as opposed to a good answer to your question, I do not like to lock my vintage Airstream. There is seldom anything of great value in it, and I would rather someone just open the door to steal the Mr. Coffee as opposed to jimmying it with a crowbar or breaking one of my unobtainium windows.

Some damage just can not be repaired to look as-good-as-new.

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Old 12-05-2004, 07:25 AM   #9
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tom

i'm just guessing, but i think sitting under the awning with a cold one and the 12 gauge in your lap helps too!

john
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Old 12-05-2004, 01:30 PM   #10
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Hmm something to think about I guess.

So do I deter the nasty and delay him/her enough so that I can borrow HD's beer and whack'em with it. Or do I leave the door open for the Airstream professional to pillage my coach of the $25.00 Light lenses

Won't need the gun - have the Black Taz! but don't tell anyone if you bark at her she will hide under the coach - and the couch if we had one!

Still would like to entertain the idea of some sort of extra locking system. As we will have precious cargo! - we have the plexiglass side window - which I am sure was a result of either lost keys or a break in at one point. found the tempered glass squares when we had her apart.

Look forward to your pics wahoonc
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Old 12-05-2004, 01:37 PM   #11
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rickstream did a first class installation of a stainless dead bolt on his '74 excella. it can be done without damage.

now i just gotta get him to post the results!

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Old 12-05-2004, 03:13 PM   #12
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I am watching this thread closely. I purchased my stainless steel deadbolt 2 years ago & have seen several trailers that have had them sucessfully installed. BUT, I have been too CHICKEN to start cutting into my trailer to attempt an installation. So, this subject is one I'll monitor. Hopefully there will be enough input to make me comfortable in proceeding with this project.
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Old 12-05-2004, 04:55 PM   #13
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I have installed a dead bolt in my 1974 Excella. If you install a bolt on your trailer without planning, you have a junk trailer. If you install a bolt using a plan, plan, plan you will have a very nice way to lock up that beer you just put in the frig. Please, start by taking the inside skin off and examine how your trailer was built (around the door and jam that is). What type of room is available between ribs and extrusions. After doing this, then you can start to plan the placement of the lock. Make sure that you never cut through a rib or an extrusion. You will see by my picture that a comprimise was made and I cut through part of the rib and extrusion. Minimize the material removal when you start. Placement of parts may overlap some of a rib or extrusion, find a spot that will minimize this. Please do not cut completely through a rib or extrusion. If you sever it, you may have made junk of your trailer. If you feel you cannot complete this job, all you have to do is replace the inner skin you just removed for the lock placement inspection. This inspection is were you will decide if you can do this job. You will need an electric drill, some correct size hole saws and a file.
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Old 12-05-2004, 05:50 PM   #14
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This is the dead bolt on the trailer, it does not have Vulkum around it yet, when final installation is done, use a bunch of Vulkem to weather seal the lock to the trailer skin. After the Vulkem cures, clean off excess.
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Old 12-05-2004, 05:56 PM   #15
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Remember to drill from the inside out to preserve the door jam. THAT MEANS DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE DOOR JAM ON OUTSIDE OF TRAILER!!! The lock housing will be cut to fit the door jam profile. Use a hack saw or die grinder use whatever, but do it right.
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:03 PM   #16
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This is the outside of the trailer after the hole was cut from INSIDE OUT. But stop the cut before going through the jam frame. The lock housing will be cut to fit this profile. Look at the earlier picture. Look were the Vulkem has not been applied and it is apparent that the housing was fit to the trailer. During final installation Vulkem will hide this feature.
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:11 PM   #17
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Rickstream

Looks really sharp - and fairly easy when you plan. Question: was there a particular reason why you choose to put the lock portion on the trailer rather than having on the door with the bolt going into the door frame.
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:20 PM   #18
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Now, I am assuming you folks know how a Deadbolt works, adjusts, goes together and comes apart. If you understand this, then you can adjust your "POI" (plan of installation) to fit in the area you have to work with. We do not want to "JAT" (Junked Another Trailer) because we did not have a POI. Now this group of pictures show how close the holes are to the extrusion on the door jam. Just shaves a little off, remember not to cut through this or you will have JAT'ed the thing. Use masking tape if it will help, may give you the dimension you need to make the POI work. Now look back at the earlier picture that shows the cut made from inside out, yes part of rib was cut. However, the strength, for the most part, has been preserved. Take your time doing the entire project. I have lots of experience with this type of work and I still get a little wound up. If you get wound up, TAKE 5, HAVE ANOTHER COLD ONE! Just remember think first cut second.
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT6921
Rickstream

Looks really sharp - and fairly easy when you plan. Question: was there a particular reason why you choose to put the lock portion on the trailer rather than having on the door with the bolt going into the door frame.
I can answer that one....clearance, the door is too thin for the dead bolt. BTW sorry I didn't manage to get home this weekend and get pictures but Rickstreams install is almost identical to mine Except my throw bolt was cut down too, I would guess to keep the hole in the door and door jamb to a minimum. Now I will have to post pictures.

Aaron
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:40 PM   #20
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Using time as our tool we will drill a hole for the bolt. First find the correct place for this hole. Use your POI as a guide here. When selecting hole saws to drill up your trailer, I would select one that is just interference fit and file the hole to fit. Some projects are not so well planned and having the abilty to "slide-it-over" a little can be done if the hole is small when you start and enlarge it as needed. I selected the trailer to put the lock and bolt on using the door as the stiker because, well, that is how Airstream has done it, I can only imagine how deep the dent would be, if the lock was on the door, after the door bounced off the trailer side, when you came boiling out of the trailer after whoever just stolen your beer! Now we have to think about how we are going to put a hole in the door frame in "just-the-right-spot", also, that bolt is aweful large in diameter, don't you think?
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