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Old 12-05-2004, 05:56 PM   #15
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Remember to drill from the inside out to preserve the door jam. THAT MEANS DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE DOOR JAM ON OUTSIDE OF TRAILER!!! The lock housing will be cut to fit the door jam profile. Use a hack saw or die grinder use whatever, but do it right.
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:03 PM   #16
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This is the outside of the trailer after the hole was cut from INSIDE OUT. But stop the cut before going through the jam frame. The lock housing will be cut to fit this profile. Look at the earlier picture. Look were the Vulkem has not been applied and it is apparent that the housing was fit to the trailer. During final installation Vulkem will hide this feature.
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:11 PM   #17
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Looks really sharp - and fairly easy when you plan. Question: was there a particular reason why you choose to put the lock portion on the trailer rather than having on the door with the bolt going into the door frame.
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:20 PM   #18
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Now, I am assuming you folks know how a Deadbolt works, adjusts, goes together and comes apart. If you understand this, then you can adjust your "POI" (plan of installation) to fit in the area you have to work with. We do not want to "JAT" (Junked Another Trailer) because we did not have a POI. Now this group of pictures show how close the holes are to the extrusion on the door jam. Just shaves a little off, remember not to cut through this or you will have JAT'ed the thing. Use masking tape if it will help, may give you the dimension you need to make the POI work. Now look back at the earlier picture that shows the cut made from inside out, yes part of rib was cut. However, the strength, for the most part, has been preserved. Take your time doing the entire project. I have lots of experience with this type of work and I still get a little wound up. If you get wound up, TAKE 5, HAVE ANOTHER COLD ONE! Just remember think first cut second.
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT6921
Rickstream

Looks really sharp - and fairly easy when you plan. Question: was there a particular reason why you choose to put the lock portion on the trailer rather than having on the door with the bolt going into the door frame.
I can answer that one....clearance, the door is too thin for the dead bolt. BTW sorry I didn't manage to get home this weekend and get pictures but Rickstreams install is almost identical to mine Except my throw bolt was cut down too, I would guess to keep the hole in the door and door jamb to a minimum. Now I will have to post pictures.

Aaron
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:40 PM   #20
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Using time as our tool we will drill a hole for the bolt. First find the correct place for this hole. Use your POI as a guide here. When selecting hole saws to drill up your trailer, I would select one that is just interference fit and file the hole to fit. Some projects are not so well planned and having the abilty to "slide-it-over" a little can be done if the hole is small when you start and enlarge it as needed. I selected the trailer to put the lock and bolt on using the door as the stiker because, well, that is how Airstream has done it, I can only imagine how deep the dent would be, if the lock was on the door, after the door bounced off the trailer side, when you came boiling out of the trailer after whoever just stolen your beer! Now we have to think about how we are going to put a hole in the door frame in "just-the-right-spot", also, that bolt is aweful large in diameter, don't you think?
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Old 12-05-2004, 07:06 PM   #21
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Well, what about the large bolt? Do we just drill a hole large enough to allow the bolt to fit into the door and JAT'ed the door? Just kidding. If you look at newer Airstreams that have bolts you will see the bolt is thin. Thin enough to safely fit between the extrusion shape of the door frame itself. That will leave strength to the door frame and allow you to lock up your beer. So using your POI you can then determine how thin and on which side to thin up your bolt. You can do this by examining your particular trailer door to door jam, think about how tight to make the door (door seal will compress, but by how much?) It is your judgement, I used the original door lock, locked, and measured. Made my plan and cut the bolt down to the size I thought would work. And it did. By now the entire bolt and lock should be installed to have the correct position. Now fine fitting can be done on the lock fitment. Once you are happy with the fit install the inner lock lever and tighten up screws so the bolt can be thrown. Is the bolt thin enough?? Do not go through the hardened inner pin that some bolts have, they are centered in the bolt and about 1/8 inch diameter.
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Old 12-05-2004, 07:17 PM   #22
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Now, make sure you have your bolt and lock completely installed, along with the inner lock lever. If you are happy with the way it works, now we need to look at the size of the bolt. Close the door and lock it using the original lock, the seal should compress some also. Estimate what needs to be trimmed on the bolt. My trailer the bolt was trimmed from the inside and out. Everyone's project is different and needs the POI to determine the next move. Now thin the bolt. How? I used a machining mill, if you do not have one then use a grinder, if you do not have one of those use a BA file. OK, now we have the thinned bolt, I removed the bolt from the rest of the lock when I thinned it then reassembled the lock. Now how do we get the hole in the door just right?
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Old 12-05-2004, 07:43 PM   #23
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Once you have the bolt and lock installed put ink on the bolt end. This will transfer to the masking tape you put on the door jam just before you closed the door, remember the POI. Now turn the bolt and the ink will transfer to the masking tape on the door jam. Open the door and now you can see what has happened. An imprint of the bolt asking you to start drilling the hole in the door frame. But wait! Is the imprint in the center of the door, close enough to the center, or is it way off and would JAT the door? Do what has to be done to get the bolt centered, may need to grind, mill or file more off the bolt, or the project is going great for you. What ever has to be done, must be done for a good result in this project. I will bet the hole to be put in the door will be in the center of the frame, because you can grind the bolt to fit the door frame. So put the hole in the center of the door, a small hole, and enlarge as needed. If you messed up the bolt grinding, get a new lock and bolt and do it again so the bolt will fit the door center. Now when the hole is almost large enough start using a round file to finish up. Remember the ink on the end of the bolt face, keep doing it ever so little bit as material is removed. Take your time to fit the door and you will be happy. Remember the POI. Continue to fit things slowly and so the door frame hole is not too large. Once you have fitted the bolt to the door frame you can seal the bolt and lock into place using lots of Vulkem put the screws in place and let it set. Clean up the Vulkem after it can be trimmed off the lock housing.
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Old 12-05-2004, 07:56 PM   #24
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Once the project is done, watch what happens to your lock as the trailer is towed and lock is used. On the door hole a stainless steel striker plate should be made and installed on the door frame over this hole to prevent the aluminum door frame from wearing due to shaking and friction against the bolt (that is harder then the aluminum door frame). The placement of the lock on the trailer maybe some other location than I used. Some place the lock lower, below the grab handle. I have an Excella and this trailer has a large blue stripe down the side. I placed my lock above this blue stripe, which ment I had to place the lock above the grab handle. That is were the area for lock placement look the best, (remember to take the inner skin off and inspect the stuctural areas BEFORE you begin to drill. Select a location that works best that works on YOUR trailer. An area that will do least harm to the ribs and extrusions. I have a trailer that has a very expensive door lock, my original still works, has made it 30 years without breaking or letting the door swing open going down the road. Enough, I will not wait for the damage, I locked it on the cheap, $15 bucks. Your trailer maybe older and have a different door frame, consult common sence before begining a project like this. Good luck and good drinking.
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Old 12-05-2004, 08:08 PM   #25
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nice pic of the wisconsin beer cooler rick!

i have seen rick's installation in person, his work is top notch A-one!

john
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Old 12-06-2004, 06:12 PM   #26
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Very professional. Thanks for the inservice lock installation. Great suggestion about putting 'common sense' in gear before doing anything.
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Old 03-26-2005, 09:53 PM   #27
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DeadBolt take 2

I really appreciate and would like to thank RickStream for the fantastic guidence that he provided me through this thread. As well I would like to add my installation to this resource. I posted pictures to my web log that are available here directly:

http://stephenfixx.blogspot.com/2005...tallation.html

Thanks again

Steve
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Old 03-27-2005, 05:24 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfixx
I really appreciate and would like to thank RickStream for the fantastic guidence that he provided me through this thread. As well I would like to add my installation to this resource. I posted pictures to my web log that are available here directly:

http://stephenfixx.blogspot.com/2005...tallation.html

Thanks again

Steve
Nice job! Love your tool assortment!
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