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Old 11-04-2006, 09:21 AM   #15
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scary indeed

I would certainly agree that this is a scary job, with the possibility of screwing up the skin, the jamb, and the door all in one afternoon! Having said that, I also think it is not rocket science, that with CAREFUL measuring and layout, and the right tools and know-how, any coach owner can do it. It IS a tight fit, with very small margin of error, and I did file one side of the bolt to thin it down to go into the door. I used the "Defiant" brand from HD, it was like $10, and has a solid bolt (not hollow) to allow for shaping. Also used parbond for the seal. I found that, in my coach, by taking off the inner trim ring from the adjacent window, you have good access to the area where the guts of the thing will go. This also allows you to drill out a wood block through which the guts go, the block being the same thickness as the inside of the wall, so that you can crank down on the screws holding the deadbolt together. I would NOT leave out this step. Best of luck!!-tim
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Old 11-04-2006, 09:45 AM   #16
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Dead Bolt Installation

Greetings markdoane!

Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Here's pictures. I marked the deadbolt area with 1" wide masking tape. Looking at it, I guess I don't have room on the jamb for a deadbolt.

On the other hand, the way the door curves, I think I can mount in the door and still have it clear the panel when open, Might need to mount it higher, about chest level.

Great looking installation!
My '64 Overlander has had a deadbolt since it was new, and I believe that your mounting logic should work with your '59 coach with the door-within-a-door configuration. The door hold-open bracket used with most of the door-within-a-door hold the door far enough from the body that the deadbolt won't contact the skin. I have a good friend with a '60 Overlander that has a more modern knob-type door handle (replacing the original "refrigerator" style handle) and his handle does not contact the skin when the door is held open with the stock bracket. In fact, his coach has a deadbolt security lock mounted only about six or eight inches above floor level and it is mounted in the wall.

The photos below are of the installation on my Overlander -- these aren't the original parts -- Ace Fogdall RV in Cedar Falls, IA sourced these as replacements for my originals that were unreliable in operation:

A close-up of the deadbolt:


Close-up of deadbolt/entrance handle pair (the visible damage -- wrinkling of skin -- was the result of the failure of the original door locks while in-transit:


The door-frame close-up of the installation:


This isntallation is about five years old at this point, and I am very happy with the results.

Good luck with your deadbolt project!

Kevin
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:00 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
I would certainly agree that this is a scary job, with the possibility of screwing up the skin, the jamb, and the door all in one afternoon! Having said that, I also think it is not rocket science, that with CAREFUL measuring and layout, and the right tools and know-how, any coach owner can do it. It IS a tight fit, with very small margin of error, and I did file one side of the bolt to thin it down to go into the door. I used the "Defiant" brand from HD, it was like $10, and has a solid bolt (not hollow) to allow for shaping. Also used parbond for the seal. I found that, in my coach, by taking off the inner trim ring from the adjacent window, you have good access to the area where the guts of the thing will go. This also allows you to drill out a wood block through which the guts go, the block being the same thickness as the inside of the wall, so that you can crank down on the screws holding the deadbolt together. I would NOT leave out this step. Best of luck!!-tim
Nice job! And you didn't have the steop up I did. I lucked out, careful placement was key. No interior diassembly
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:43 AM   #18
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I like both your installs look great.

When I picked up the Ambassador in Ohio I paid AS at Jackson Center to put a deadbolt in for me. I ended up replacing it because it was binding when the new seals were put on the door. You need to find one with a solid pin in case you need to shave it down.
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Old 11-04-2006, 11:46 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
. . . You need to find one with a solid pin in case you need to shave it down.
If you get the one from Kevin at VTS it's already thinner. The hardware store ones are about 5/8", the RV style is 1/2" thick.

Not much, but might be the difference between setting up the milling machine.

I think the one Kevin shows in post #16 is the RV style. It looks noticeably thinner.
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Old 11-04-2006, 12:53 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
If you get the one from Kevin at VTS it's already thinner. The hardware store ones are about 5/8", the RV style is 1/2" thick.

Not much, but might be the difference between setting up the milling machine.

I think the one Kevin shows in post #16 is the RV style. It looks noticeably thinner.
The thing with the RV one I got was the set back. It is 2 3/8" The onter is 2 1/5, made a big dif, for me I needed to get away from the seam.
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Old 11-04-2006, 01:23 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
The thing with the RV one I got was the set back. It is 2 3/8" The onter is 2 1/5, made a big dif, for me I needed to get away from the seam.
The RV (Valterra) deadbolt I got from VTS is adjustable, either 2 3/8" or 2 3/4" The problem is I haven't figured out how to switch it. I guess I need to RTFM.
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Old 11-04-2006, 01:48 PM   #22
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Dead bolts

Installing a dead bolt on a cast metal frame, severely weakens the door frame.

Most offen, slamming the door one time, fractures the casting.

Andy
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Old 11-04-2006, 03:00 PM   #23
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Anyone else have this setup?

Deadbolt, doorlock and doorbell.I need parts fot the part mounted in the door. Any help out there?
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Old 11-04-2006, 03:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doorgunner
Deadbolt, doorlock and doorbell.I need parts fot the part mounted in the door. Any help out there?
1986 Trailers used a Keeler Brass lock.

That became obsolete so Airstream came up with a GM lock kit, as shown in your photo. That became no longer available.

What is available is a Trimark lock kit for the 78 to 91 trailers. You must use an adapter plate and slightly modify the door.

Parts do not exist for the Keeler Brass or GM lock.

That GM, "is not" General Motors.

Andy
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Old 11-04-2006, 03:52 PM   #25
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Installing a dead bolt on a cast metal frame, severely weakens the door frame.

Most offen, slamming the door one time, fractures the casting.

Andy
Thats good info, thanks.

Can you tell us, what years did the cast door frames start?
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:14 PM   #26
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Cast entrance door frames

Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Thats good info, thanks.

Can you tell us, what years did the cast door frames start?
Airstream used cast entrance door frames from 1965 up to and including 1972.

That frame has not been available for many years.

If you break it, you can have it welded, but it's a real chore to do so.

Or, you can upgrade to a later year door, but you must modify the shell cutout. Oh yes, the newer style entrance door comes with a door jamb and a screen door.

You cannot use any of the old door parts or screen door.

Cost? $2200.00 plus crating and shipping.

Might make a person think more than twice, before they weaken that cast frame.

Andy
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Old 11-04-2006, 07:57 PM   #27
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Good Heads up Andy!
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Old 11-05-2006, 09:01 PM   #28
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Thanks Andy

I appreciate you expertise, Seein as my assy is already broken I might just have to fab up a new piece or fire up the tig. If I can't unbreak it I be calling. Thanks again Tim
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