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02-22-2017, 05:22 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
Goleta
, California
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 5
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Calling Bargman L-100 Doctors
Hi,
This is my first post to the forum, as I am a new owner of a '67 overlander.
The door has had a rough history, seemingly, and the lock is in a sort of confusing/broken state. The door shuts and the deadbolt goes in, but that is separate from the bargman. And that unit has no lock, it is simply a deadbolt with access to open from inside and out.
The outside handle works, but has no key hole, and appears to be the inside part?
And what I think would have been the outside lock is broken and in a cabinet......
So hmm...
I ordered VTS-343 ( http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...-p/vts-343.htm ) thinking I might be able to just swap out the keyed part for the outside portion of the deadbolt? Don't know if that'll work.
Does anyone have any ideas?
I can send more photos/details if needed.
Thanks!
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02-22-2017, 09:42 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1963 22' Safari
2020 27' Globetrotter
State of
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,512
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Welcome to the forums. If you have a good locksmith in town, remove the from the door (two screws on the interior plate, plus the two into the striker on the side of the door) and take all the pieces in. It looks like it's missing a couple C or E type clips and otherwise may be fixable. L-100's are no longer made, I cringe at how many I tossed that could be going on ebay for $400-500 now, but were only $60-70 new when still in production. There are rebuild kits from time to time on ebay, but best left to someone who's worked on one before or a lock smith that knows what they are doing.
The bottom "deadbolt" is actually nothing more than a travel lock to keep the door from flying open when you're going down the road. If you end up removing it or the L-100 permanently I'd be interested in buying them from you.
__________________
Scott & Megan
VAC LIBRARIAN WBCCI 8671
1963 Safari from the 1963-64 Around the World Caravan
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02-23-2017, 03:52 AM
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#3
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54 Flying Cloud
1967 20' Globetrotter
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Grand Rapids
, Minnesota
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 173
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I have a bag of parts for these
If you don't get what you need from your order, get hold of me. I have a bag of spare parts for this lock. I think they're going for around 200 on ebay now.
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02-23-2017, 08:13 AM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member
1967 26' Overlander
Bugtussle
, Oklahoma
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 400
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Welcome and Congratulations on becoming the owner of a '67 Overlander.
Yes, your Bargman was installed inside out because someone broke the outside knob off I suppose. Good news is it appears that all of the parts are there. The 66-68 trailers have a longer latch bolt because of the thickness of the door casting used. Replacements are really hard to find now and you can expect to pay $400.00 and up. The parts you have are precious. Rebuild kits can still be found on ebay. It is well worth the trouble to recondition a Bargman. Start by soaking the lock for a few days in a bucket of parts solvent that you can get at autozone. Don't take it apart. Just let it soak for awhile then blow it out with compressed air and WD-40. Now you can evaluate your lock and get started with reconditioning. This is how I rescued the seized Bargman on my trailer. Does this sound like a lot of work, expense, and time just for a door knob? You bet it is and you're just getting started.
__________________
1967 Overlander International 26ft
2006 Porsche Cayenne Turbo S 520hp 530ft-lbs torque 7700lb towing capacity
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02-23-2017, 12:20 PM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
Goleta
, California
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 5
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Lock smith blues
Thank you all for the input!
I will disassemble soak and take it down to the locksmith down the road.
I am wondering if the inside portion of the keyed door knob was machined to fit in the door, like maybe with teeth or something? It seems like if that were so it might be stripped, but I will have the doc check her out.
Very grateful for the replies!
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02-23-2017, 12:42 PM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
1997 25' Safari
1973 25' Tradewind
Greenville
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 384
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The pictures and comment are somewhat correct. The outside handle was broken off, then someone mounted the inside handle on the outside somehow. If you pay close attention to the outside handle which is in one of the pictures you will see a square lip or platform. In older versions of the Bargman L-100 or 200 there was a small mushroom head holding all of the components together. On your lock handle it is now broken off. When that head wears down or become loose it causes a lot play in the handle while in the outside plate. When that happens it is only a matter of time before the handle breaks off. The only way to use your current lock again is to drill a hole in the center of that square and tap a new threaded screw. On the newer version a screw holds the handle in place.
I have lots new and used Bargman L100 or L200 locks if you are interested. I will send you a Private message in order to help even if you don't buy a lock or parts. I can also provide you with a pdf of the lock as well if that helps.
Vintage trailer sells the receiver which fits in the edge of the door and a long stem or latch. Latch: http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...-p/vts-116.htm
Receiver Pocket slot: http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...-p/vts-570.htm
Rick
r_whiten@hotmail.com
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02-23-2017, 07:04 PM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
1967 26' Overlander
Spartanburg
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 437
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One reason these locks get broken up is the two tangs on the inside end of the bolt breaks off. If both tangs break the only way to open the door is to break the lock or the door. One of mine did and I got locked inside the trailer and had to exit thru the escape hatch (rear window) of my '67 Overlander. Fortunately, I was able to open the door from the outside.
I had a new bolt made of mild steel at a local machine shop using the old one as a pattern. I remove the entire lock mechanism yearly, disassemble and inspect all parts and lube each part with silicone before reassembly. One thing I have found is the lock binds if all the screws are too tight so I just snug on reassembly and check frequently. If you can find one complete lock assembly buy it. Save the one you have for spare parts. Your lock is an L100-6. If you can't find that exact one, you can use any L100 but you will have to have a longer bolt made as I did.
BTW the term "bolt" is the name of the spring loaded main slide piece that actually "bolts" the door when it engages into the nylon striker box. The striker box is the plastic part that fits into the door jamb and these are available from Vintage Trailer Supply in Vermont. They are very good folks to deal with. Another good source is Trailer Supply in Utah.
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04-13-2017, 04:49 PM
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#8
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1 Rivet Member
1966 24' Tradewind
Durham
, North Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 5
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These replies are all helpful to me. The cylinder on my L100 just disintegrated. I have a 66 Tradewind. How do I figure out if my lock is an L 100-6 or some other -number? Is it on the lock?
I went to my local locksmith and she went in the back and came right out with an L-200! I was impressed. Tomorrow I'm taking the whole assembly out and down to the locksmith.
Connie
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04-13-2017, 05:32 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2016 30' Classic
Hinckley
, Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 907
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Calling Bargman L-100 Doctors
One thing no one mentioned, is that the inside handle does not work like a regular door knob. It only opens in one direction. When turned in the opposite direction it locks the door.
I have reconditioned a few locks with JB Weld. Let it dry afterwards, file it down to the right size.
Most locksmiths won't know what to do with this lock. They have never seen anything like it.
__________________
My budget won't stop me from buying something online that I don't need, but the threat of getting promotional
emails every day for the rest of my life just might!
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04-13-2017, 05:39 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2016 30' Classic
Hinckley
, Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 907
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Calling Bargman L-100 Doctors
It looks like your missing a roll pin in the slot. It would be operated by the key in the handle. There should also be a plate with a small offset to engage the locking mechanism. There is also a small ball that rest on the spring on the plate you have in your hand. The ball engages on the Z edge of the mating piece.
__________________
My budget won't stop me from buying something online that I don't need, but the threat of getting promotional
emails every day for the rest of my life just might!
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04-14-2017, 05:01 AM
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#11
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4 Rivet Member
1997 25' Safari
1973 25' Tradewind
Greenville
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BauxiteBaby
These replies are all helpful to me. The cylinder on my L100 just disintegrated. I have a 66 Tradewind. How do I figure out if my lock is an L 100-6 or some other -number? Is it on the lock?
I went to my local locksmith and she went in the back and came right out with an L-200! I was impressed. Tomorrow I'm taking the whole assembly out and down to the locksmith.
Connie
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Connie,
I sent you a private message. I will be glad to help you repair the L-100 if you need assistance. I have lots of spare parts for all of the Bargman Locks.
I am down in Greenville,SC.
Rick
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04-17-2017, 03:30 AM
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#12
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4 Rivet Member
1967 26' Overlander
Spartanburg
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BauxiteBaby
These replies are all helpful to me. The cylinder on my L100 just disintegrated. I have a 66 Tradewind. How do I figure out if my lock is an L 100-6 or some other -number? Is it on the lock?
I went to my local locksmith and she went in the back and came right out with an L-200! I was impressed. Tomorrow I'm taking the whole assembly out and down to the locksmith.
Connie
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I am no expert but the only difference I can see is the length of the bolt. The bolt is the spring loaded main slide piece that engages into the door frame to "bolt" the door and hold it shut. It is slid back to "unbolt" the door by a couple of small cams inside the mechanism when you turn the knob. I don't see a model number on any of the few locks I have.
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