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Old 08-31-2005, 05:59 AM   #15
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How much would you pay for an excellent door that would fit?
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Old 08-31-2005, 07:01 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
but will need to find someone to make the curved channel that makes the edge. i had thought about just grafting a plate over the break, but since the break is right at the latch, i don't think there is room.
i was even thinking about making the door slightly more curved than the body, to make sure the lower corners stay tight against the body when towing.

them's the plans, anyway.
A-Merry- Can.... I have done exactly what you are planning to do. When I purchaced the Airstream the door had spread over a half an inch at the top and bottom. Three layers of mickey mouse rubber seal to fill the gap was unacceptable.

I took some 1/8 inch aluminum plate and cut a curved piece that was fairly easy to rivit in place. There was lots of room for the plate and the door is very study now. I also did as you suggest. Made sure the corners were nice and tight. Will try to find an image of the fix and will post it.
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Old 08-31-2005, 08:20 AM   #17
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You know this thread reminds me of a picture my next door neighbor showed me of a trip he and his buddies took when they took an Airstream to Alaska back in the mid 60s to early 70s.

He told me they cooked breakfast, ate, went out fishing and when they came back a bear had torn off a good section of the rear outer skin, tore out the insulation in the area an did actually get into the inner skin a bit.

I have to borrow that picture and scan it in...it was surreal.
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Old 08-31-2005, 02:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Ruler
A-Merry- Can.... I have done exactly what you are planning to do. When I purchaced the Airstream the door had spread over a half an inch at the top and bottom. Three layers of mickey mouse rubber seal to fill the gap was unacceptable.

I took some 1/8 inch aluminum plate and cut a curved piece that was fairly easy to rivit in place. There was lots of room for the plate and the door is very study now. I also did as you suggest. Made sure the corners were nice and tight. Will try to find an image of the fix and will post it.
man, that would be GREAT to see how you did it. my door is made out of 4 pieces riveted together. my plan is to make the new one out of one piece of 040. both the thickness and single plane construction should make it incredibly more rigid, at least horizontally. the bend, however will need to be addressed. you can see the crack at the latch in the photos. you can also see how much it bows out. if i press lightly on it, the door will fit really snug, it just bends at the crack. my door doesn't have a deadbolt either. i will probably add one, so the strengthening plate you suggest sounds like something i should definitely look into. i look forward to your pics!

also, does anyone know of a supplier for the plastic catch plate for teh door latch? mine is missing that as well. when i get done with this '59, about the only original parts left will be the end caps.

jordan
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Old 08-31-2005, 10:43 PM   #19
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Good question

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardT
How much would you pay for an excellent door that would fit?
I know what a new one would cost before shipping. My goal is to get it back into shape so there are no leaks. I haven't done enough salvage investigating to get an idea of what the right price would be. Why are you asking? Do you know yourself what a fair price would be for "an excellent door that would fit?" I need to consider the fixes advised in here as well. Of course all this is in the context of winter coming on and the whole works being under several feet of snow for 5-6 months. I have another little leak in the roof that I think I can get with some sealant on the seams and around the vents; although i have no idea where it is coming in.
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