Could you post a few pictures of the misalignment?
I'll bet you already know this, and it may not apply to your problem, but I am posting my experiences on door alignment issues to help any other people that run into something similar and see this post.
Normally, a gap at the top is caused by the door blowing open at 60 MPH and banging against the side of the trailer. (A "sprung" door.) The force is usually enough to leave a small scrape mark in the paint near the latch on the side of the trailer, and it can easily flatten the door enough it pulls the top away from the trailer, causing a large gap. I can't think of any other way this could have happened unless the hinges were installed incorrectly at the factory.
When the door is closed and latched, is the gap on the front and rear of the door even from the top of the door to the bottom, and does the curve of the door match the curve of the outside of the trailer exactly? Ours was sprung near the hinges as well as on the opposite side, though by varying degrees.
I've been able to make small adjustments to the top of the door by placing a short 2x4 between the door and the frame opposite the hinges about 1 foot down from the top or so. This should leave a gap of about 3 inches or so at the top. Carefully push on the very top of the door straight inward to close the gap. Remove the wood block and check the clearance. If it gets better after a few tries, repeat. Don't push too hard, or you'll kink something, but the weight of a full grown man bouncing gently against the door (You will probably need a step ladder) will usually be about right. The aluminum frame is very strong, but it will have a little spring to it if you push hard enough. You want to apply enough pressure that after 3 or 4 tries so that the top of the door moves inward a 1/4 inch or so from when you started. Once you get the hang of it, repeat until fixed. You can vary the pressure from the hinge side to the opposite side until the gap is even when closed. Go slow, check often, and you should have it fixed in 15 minutes or so.
The bottom is similar, but be very careful, as it is straighter, longer and consequently weaker, and can kink easier. Place the block of wood near the door lock, and gently push on the outer edges of the door about 2 feet up from the bottom until everything lines up. If you know any old school auto bodywork guys, this is a common technique for aligning door window frames in cars, and they should be very familiar with how it works and can do it for you in a few minutes.
Once the door is fixed, you need to make sure the door doesn't come loose again on the freeway. Maybe someone forgot to lock the door, or perhaps, like ours, the lock is failing. Fix the lock, and make sure that it's on your checklist to double check before driving away. As an added measure, some folks on here have fashioned wooden "chocks" that fit into the grab handle next to the door that make it impossible to open until the chock is removed.
Larger gaps require more drastic measures. There is post on here somewhere that details how to remove and disassemble the door completely, reshape the frame against a wooden forming buck until it fits perfectly, and then reassemble it.
Sean & Sharon
AIR #: 27389
TAC #: OR-3