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Old 10-12-2006, 11:12 PM   #29
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1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
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Lets see is door work "WORK". Besides locking both locks on our door before we move the trailer I also tie the door with a piece of rope. I hope that sayes it.
Don
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:23 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Realigning a bent door, is easy. There are many ways to do it.


Andy
I'm curious what the many ways are...
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Old 10-13-2006, 03:23 PM   #31
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1977 31' Sovereign
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The Jig

I lined up a 2x6 scribed it and used a saws all to cut it.

You can make it full length, mine was ok near the top so I used a shorter piece of wood.
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Old 10-13-2006, 03:29 PM   #32
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Step 2

Please realize these pic are after the work was done.

I removed both skins placed the door face down with a jig on each side (only one is in pic.

Using the rivet holes from the outer skin I used wood screws to force the frame into the form.

It didn't take a lot of force there are holes every 6 inches or so.

Now that the frame conforms to the jig I replace the inside skin.

But I leave the frame screwed into the jig until the whole inner skin is secure.
I used the old holes. and added 6 new rivets on each side to lock the frame in this shape.
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Old 10-13-2006, 03:34 PM   #33
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Thumbs up Last step

Remove jig, flip it over the door now has its corrected shape.

Use the other half of the jig just to keep everything stable, it is not attached, it is just cradled in it for support until the outside skin is put back in place.

It took me about 3 1/2 hours start to finish.

It fit perfect.
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Old 06-27-2008, 11:41 AM   #34
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Sprung door quick fix

This is more of an emergency repair method, but it will correct a 1/2" or so of spring in the door, and can be done almost anywhere in an hour or so. I used this on my 75 Argosy when the deadbolt failed, and the door blew open twice at 60MPH before we realized the deadbolt was the problem, and not my faulty memory. :-)

Buy 3 large ratcheting nylon straps, long enough to go completely around the door vertically, top to bottom. Slowly tighten the straps, being careful to tighten them as evenly as possible. This will take some effort. Eyeball it carefully. When you feel it has corrected some of the "sprung", release everything carefully, and test the fit. The door will relax some after you loosen the ratchets, but it should be a closer fit every time you test it. Repeat until it fits, or you're too nervous to proceed. About half the rivets on the inside panel of my door had weakened during the original event, so this rebending process finished most of them off. Replace any needed rivets. Using this method I was able to correct a 5" gap at the top to a 1/2" gap, which will suffice until I can take it apart and fix it correctly.
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Old 11-20-2009, 04:29 PM   #35
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1959 22' Flying Cloud
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Hinge removal

So the door of my '59 Flying Cloud is a little tweaked and the rivets of the door skin are mostly all loose. To follow the process of straightening the door by re-riveting how does one go about removing the door from the hinges? Do the hinge pins come out on a '59? Do I drill out all the rivets from the hinges on the body or just the ones on the door? I probably will remove at least the bottom hinge from the body because it seems a little sloppy and I want to reinforce behind it. If I do remove the rivets from the body what is the best way to re-attach the hinges, rivets or stainless bolts?
Thanks,
Tony
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:47 AM   #36
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1959 22' Caravanner
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In the interest of tweaked doors, my '59 Caravanner will be going through this very soon. This is good reading and greater ideas, I wish the pics were still available for me to see.
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:12 PM   #37
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Rivet Repairing a misaligned door

I finally got around to fixing some door issues. The skin that the door hinges are attached to door flexed every time the door swung which caused the door to hit the jamb. Along with the wimpy one layer of skin I found that 3 of the holes on the lower hinge were joined by a crack rivets accentuating the flex.

After gathering tools and information, thanks to JC Ferguson, Andy, Aerowood, Wasagachris and others, I starting removing rivets. I had a piece of .040 Alclad from my eyebrow project and used that as a reinforcement backing plate. New AD rivets in the lower hinge and the door swung better but not perfect. I removed and replaced the upper hinge also and the door swings closed without banging the door jamb!
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:41 PM   #38
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andy i would love to hear your method on how to repair a sprung door that has a cast frame.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:48 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by manymemories View Post
andy i would love to hear your method on how to repair a sprung door that has a cast frame.
Is the cast frame cracked or bent?

Andy
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Old 06-29-2011, 02:06 PM   #40
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Hi There Andy too,

The cast frame of my 1968 GT door is cracked on both sides. Total of three cracks, above and below hinge, and at latch, all of which had been previously welded, but welds failed. This is how it was when I purchased it... Only the exterior skin is attached. The inner panel rivets have all failed. The outside rivets are all in place and appear firmly attached.
The door wags like a flopping fish. A good replacement door would be best, but I don't want to wait for one to surface, so I'll try to repair what I have.

Any suggestions beyond grind, jig and TIG???
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Old 06-29-2011, 02:38 PM   #41
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Hi There Andy too,

The cast frame of my 1968 GT door is cracked on both sides. Total of three cracks, above and below hinge, and at latch, all of which had been previously welded, but welds failed. This is how it was when I purchased it... Only the exterior skin is attached. The inner panel rivets have all failed. The outside rivets are all in place and appear firmly attached.
The door wags like a flopping fish. A good replacement door would be best, but I don't want to wait for one to surface, so I'll try to repair what I have.

Any suggestions beyond grind, jig and TIG???
V groove the cracks so that plenty of weld takes place.

Use new holes for the interior metal, and then, and only then, fill up the old holes with rivets.

All the metal must be removed, inside and out.

Andy
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:43 PM   #42
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mine doesnt have any cracks.there is about 1/2 inch gap at the top of door on the latch side.it fits good at the latch and at the top curve but there is a gap in between.i still have both inner and outer skins on and they all have tight rivets.im sure i will have to take the inner one off but not sure what to do after that.i do have a torch set but i do have my reservations about heat and alluminium.any other tricks in your bag besides cutting and welding?by the way,thank you andy for all your threads here.every problem i have with my AS you have answered in other threads.
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