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Old 10-10-2006, 11:11 PM   #15
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Ambassador Tim

Safari Tim, Aligning the door is a lot of work. When I did mine after the door hinge broke and the door flew open. I found that it was a process of lots of small adjustments and many repeat steps. Two things were involved in my alignment process. 1. the inside skins needed to be removed. The door seemed to react like a rubber band with both skins connected. 2. One of the other PO had replaced the locking mechinism. When this was done a new piece of wood was put into the door to hold the locking system. When the PO did this he didn't shape the wood to match the curves of the door. The unshapped wood block caused the door to flatten out ever so slightly. This prevented the door from assuming the proper curve. So I made a new wooden block to match the shape of the door. The new block solved the problem. I would like to also add, that if I was going to try and do this again I would use the method of making a jig as suggested below. This jig would have to be custom shaped to my trailer to have the door fit. This will be the plan when I redo the door on the 55FC.
Don
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:50 PM   #16
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Hi, Scott.
Hi, Bob.

You know, sometimes there are two good ways to do the same job. As an old time mechanic, there were many times that I had an easy way to repair something on a car or truck at the dealer, but sometimes the other mechanics tried my method and were unable to get the results I got. You're both right because it worked for both of you.

Hi, Don. Maybe Don has the third way?

Bob
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:52 PM   #17
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Thanks Don,

I'm a beliver! It's a lot of work. I'd really like to replace the front alumium as it's all bent up pretty well. But I don't have the bucking equipment.

Looks like my next attempt will be removing the inside skin. And seeing if I can persuade it some how with that off.

I'm going to look more into the jig idea as well.
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Old 10-11-2006, 12:01 AM   #18
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Do you want a pic of the jig I made?

I know you can fix it in 3 hours or so. Mine was a lot worse.
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Old 10-11-2006, 12:37 AM   #19
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That would be great Bob.

Thanks
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Old 10-11-2006, 02:09 AM   #20
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ROBERTSUNRUSS ,

I would agree to your post ,all ideas can be utilized and applied to many
repairs we all are trying to do .These doors are a pain to fix ,no doubt about it,Any recommendations that will successfully get the door fixed are welcome
Im sure .I had success with my method but its not the only way for sure .
its just "A" method that worked for me in my straightening process .

Scott
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Old 10-11-2006, 02:29 AM   #21
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I just want to thank all who have chimed in so far.

I figured there was a simple solution to this all too common problem.

It looks to be as much of an art as it is a science. Also my ability comes into play here as well not having metal/body experience etc...

Keep the ideas coming. I'm sure it will help the next guy as well.
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:14 PM   #22
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Entrance door repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
I just want to thank all who have chimed in so far.

I figured there was a simple solution to this all too common problem.

It looks to be as much of an art as it is a science. Also my ability comes into play here as well not having metal/body experience etc...

Keep the ideas coming. I'm sure it will help the next guy as well.

Realigning a bent door, is easy. There are many ways to do it.

The failure of keeping the door in it's repaired shape, is another story.

DO NOT use the original rivet holes. Drill new holes which will keep the door in it's new alignment, and use many of them. After you reinstall the door and see that it will hold it's shape, then install rivets in the old holes to hide them.

At that point, you can comfortably install a new gasket on the door.

I have used that method for 40 years, and it has yet not to work perfectly every time, on entrance doors that used extrusions for the frame.

The above method of repair however, "will not" work on a cast frame entrance door. That is an entirely different project.

Andy
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:38 PM   #23
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I agree with Andy, I did add new rivets to hold in place the reset skins about every 6" vertically.

Then put new rivets in the old holes.
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Old 10-11-2006, 07:03 PM   #24
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It sounds like you are talking about removing the outside skin?

If so, I'd need buck rivets and a bucking bar to reassemble.

I need a little more detail on the procedure.

Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Realigning a bent door, is easy. There are many ways to do it.

The failure of keeping the door in it's repaired shape, is another story.

DO NOT use the original rivet holes. Drill new holes which will keep the door in it's new alignment, and use many of them. After you reinstall the door and see that it will hold it's shape, then install rivets in the old holes to hide them.

At that point, you can comfortably install a new gasket on the door.

I have used that method for 40 years, and it has yet not to work perfectly every time, on entrance doors that used extrusions for the frame.

The above method of repair however, "will not" work on a cast frame entrance door. That is an entirely different project.

Andy
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Old 10-11-2006, 07:12 PM   #25
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Tim I took off both skins that's the only way your going to get the frame to flex into the jig with little force.

I used regular rivets on the interior and the olympic on the exterior.
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:54 AM   #26
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The thing to remember about metal and this type of repair is that the frame
needs to be bent back in shape of coures, but it will require the frame to be moved back farther than its original shape ,you must go a little further to
get the metal to take on the form you want to achieve as it will want to not
stay in the right shape ,since the slamming open streches the frame ,so it needs to stretch back the other way .So then when you force it in shape in the jigs you have to get the skins rerivited as has been said by Andy to hold
the shape ,it could be better to have the jig setup as to bend the door abit farther to get the door frame to return to its shape without it being held
by rivits ,the frame always under tension whereas the frame always wants to
straighten on its own ,I agree it does work ,The striking method for me did in fact move the frame back farther and the door frame stayed in place .
Its a matter of getting things setup right and while it seems brutal in nature
I did have to place the blocks in certain locations and raise the door end ,
move things around to provide the right support under the door where the strikes were to occurr,the photo is simplistic in nature and does not reflect
the process it does take ,just to get the idea across .but if you don't get the frame to move back past its original position some ,it won't stay and it will
spring back .It is a tough repair to do ,it has to be right .

Scott
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Old 10-12-2006, 12:09 PM   #27
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Scott, until I did mine I thought the same thing that it had to go beyond then come back.

What I found is that when the skins are re-attached, they locked the shape in on the jig.

New rivets---nothing moved at all!
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Old 10-12-2006, 12:16 PM   #28
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Oh ,ok ,I see the door skins were completely taken off the frame on both
sides ,so just the frame only is put in the jigs ,I thought it was just the inside skins were removed . I see more clearly what was done there .thats alot of
work to perform ,the jig would be the only way to do it then if thats the procedure or the frame would be very difficult to get right without it .

Scott
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