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Old 01-01-2011, 07:21 PM   #29
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Thefishman

Yes the part #'s should be the same. If you go to the web site where they show the exploded view and click on the blue square it will give you more info. Don't know what to tell you about the suspicious activity.
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Old 01-01-2011, 07:36 PM   #30
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Posting photos

When you post photos, you can't use the quick reply post. You must use the other "Post Reply" at the lower left of the message box. Your photo can't be any larger than 1600p. When you want to post a photo, you need to scroll down below the message box to where it says "Manage Attachments" click there and you will get a "Browse" box to click on. Once you selected the photo(s) you want; Hit the "Upload" button. Hopefully it will work.
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:37 PM   #31
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Well, that didn’t fix the problem but I hope the ball and spring will help finalize the problem…..

The Key CYLINDER rod that pushes the Vertical Locking Shaft (while being turned with the key), doesn’t keep the locking shaft locked or the shaft doesn’t stay in its locked position for more than a few tugs on the outside door handle. It also seems that the cylinder rod doesn’t complete the upward locked position the shaft simply drops and the door is unlocked.
Do you think it’s the Key/cylinder or the shaft or both the cylinder and the shaft?
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:38 PM   #32
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It seems like the cylinder rod could keep the door locked if it could hold the shaft in its upward locked position.

Note: “the door stays locked when I lock it manually from the inside”
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:38 PM   #33
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Thanks for all the help.
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:51 PM   #34
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Don't give up yet!

thefishman; check your private messages.
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:47 PM   #35
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The lock cylinder has a pin that operates the shaft. Does it or the shaft look like they are worn or bent. The fact that the lock holds when you lock it from the inside is a positive. You must have reinstalled it back in the door to test it. I would take it back out, put it on the bench, don't take it apart. Just go thru the motion of locking it with the inside handle and observe how the mechanism works; how far the lock shaft moves and so on. Then go thru the same motion with the lock cylinder and see if you can determine why there is a difference. Does the lock shaft move freely? You have a lot more leverage with the inside lock than you have with the cylinder lock, so keep that in mind when testing it. Things could be worn to the point where you need to get a new lock cylinder and shaft, I'm not sure what they cost but it wiil be a lot less than a new lock assembly.
You might try playing around with the set screws a little to see if that makes a difference on whether the cylinder lock can move the lock shaft far enough to get into what is called the detent position. That's the point where the spring pushes the ball into the notch in the shaft; it's the notch in the shaft that holds the lock shaft to keep it from dropping down and unlocking the door. Keep me posted on what happens. I think we can work thru this and get it to work. There are two set screws and ball/spring assemblies. If I remember, one is to hold it in the unlocked position and the other is in the lock position. By playing around with it you may be able to tell. If all else fails, put it in a box and send it to me and I'll see if I can get it to work. No charges involved other than parts (if needed) and shipping.
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:17 PM   #36
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thanks for everyone who contributed info on this post
My door has been having problems closing and latching and I think this has helped me figuer out what its wrong
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:41 PM   #37
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my 69 tradewind has a broken lock also, i don't know the extent of the damage yet but i was suprised when i looked up how much a complete new one would cost, I don't see the justification in the price?
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Old 11-05-2011, 09:14 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by mrgreen View Post
my 69 tradewind has a broken lock also, i don't know the extent of the damage yet but i was suprised when i looked up how much a complete new one would cost, I don't see the justification in the price?
The 1969 model should have a lock with a much lower price. It's a simple knob and latch type, almost like a house.
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:00 PM   #39
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my 69 tradewind has a broken lock also, i don't know the extent of the damage yet but i was suprised when i looked up how much a complete new one would cost, I don't see the justification in the price?
Partly because that lock is no longer made.

Don't feel bad, the 70 to 77 lock is almost $500.00.

A new style replacement for the 66 to 69 locks will be available within a few days.

Andy
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Old 11-06-2011, 02:44 AM   #40
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oh right it must have been the 70-77 lock i was looking at at 469 odd dollars, and i thought gold was at stupid prices
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Old 05-23-2014, 04:46 PM   #41
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Sheared screws in door lock...

I have a fun one... I just tried removed my door lock, and 1 screw stripped and two sheared off! Given that the block is pretty soft aluminum, any suggestion on extracting/drilling out the screws? I can liv with bigger screws, but afraid the drilling out process will wreck the mounting blocks...
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:28 PM   #42
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I have a fun one... I just tried removed my door lock, and 1 screw stripped and two sheared off! Given that the block is pretty soft aluminum, any suggestion on extracting/drilling out the screws? I can liv with bigger screws, but afraid the drilling out process will wreck the mounting blocks...
There is not much body to the backside of the KT locks.

DO NOT any size drill bit except one that will barely clean out the screws.

Andy
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