'73 door difficulties - KT Latch

[funkill]

Second glaring red flag that this weekend wasn't going to be the smoothest trip ever....

Awoke to find that I was unable to open my door from the inside. I had not locked it but all my must at pulling up on the KT interior latch handle did nothing. Routinely I have to nudge the lower front corner with my foot (read "quick kick") and it flies open. Saturday nothing worked and I had to crawl out the back window to get outside - where it openned effortlessly. Subsequent tests at opening from the inside still resulted in a "no go". So I just barely pulled the door *to* and crossed my fingers that the racoons wouldn't try to open it up for a midnight visit. By the end of the trip though, even opening from the outside became difficult. Of course, if I apply a little pressure to the door near the opening, just above the latch, it works easily.

What the heck is going on? I thought maybe this was caused by the Silver Olive being somewhat unlevel (left-to-right and front-to-back) but upon arrival home, I still had to apply pressure to the outside to get the door to open (i.e. to get the latch to release fully).

Ideas being graciously accepted.

Laura

[Aerowood]

Is your door hinge worn out so that the door sags on the striker?

[TG Twinkie]

Does the door set in the opening with space pretty much even all the way around?
Does your door have 2 hinges? One at the top and one at the bottom.
Do you have to push on the door in to get it to latch?
With the door open. When you pick up on the bottom edge of the door; Is there play in the hinges?
Does the latch mechanism work freely when the door is open?
You haven't by chance installed a new gasket on the door?

[oleschool]

Make sure the lock rod next to the interior door handle isnt partially engaged.

[funkill]

Looks like I have some homework. Will give the door a good inspection and report back! Thanks for feedback.

Laura

[funkill]

So, I finally got back to the trailer to start investigating this issue… This is what I found and I still can’t disengage the latch using the interior handle.

Originally Posted by Aerowood

Is your door hinge worn out so that the door sags on the striker?

The hinges appear to be solid – no corrosion or other obvious deterioration.

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Does the door set in the opening with space pretty much even all the way around?
Does your door have 2 hinges? One at the top and one at the bottom.
Do you have to push on the door in to get it to latch?
With the door open. When you pick up on the bottom edge of the door; Is there play in the hinges?
Does the latch mechanism work freely when the door is open?
You haven't by chance installed a new gasket on the door?

The space around the perimeter of the door looks even. However, the door looks *bowed*. It obviously pitches out near the center more than at the top/bottom.
Yes, there are two hinges as you describe. There isn’t any noticeable movement in the door created by worn hinges.
I don’t have to push on it to open from the outside, though I do sometimes have to push on it to open it (but didn’t have to yesterday???).
The latching mechanism does work freely when the door is open by operating the inside and outside handle. I cannot see any difference in *throw* or *retract* of latch when I operate it via either handle.
I replaced the gasket 1+ yr ago. I did notice the gasket is crushed/misshapen at the top and it will not return to the original shape.

Originally Posted by oleschool

Make sure the lock rod next to the interior door handle isn’t partially engaged.

It moves firmly up/down and appears to be operating correctly.

Anyone have any ideas what might be the cause? I guess I can move forward with replacing the gasket material again and see if that sets the door better and helps with inside latch operation. I tried applying pressure to the center of the door from the outside to see if I could manipulate the *bow* with no success. However, I believe it has always looked this way (bowed) and it didn’t affect the operation of the latch previously. Though…. I have always assisted opening of the door via a quick kick of the bottom of the door.


Laura

[Arrowstream]

Is there a groove worn in the plunger like mine? That cold case the door to bind.
I'm going to weld it over and grind it smooth.

[funkill]

Originally Posted by Arrowstream

Is there a groove worn in the plunger like mine? That cold case the door to bind.
I'm going to weld it over and grind it smooth.

There is some grooving - not as much as yours. I found this pic from when the latch was broken previously. It's hard to discern the groove, but it's there. I don't have access to any welding work but do have a grinder. I presume using the grinder to smooth/transition the groove is not advisable. (and could likely exacerbate the problem) ???

Laura

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by funkill

There is some grooving - not as much as yours. I found this pic from when the latch was broken previously. It's hard to discern the groove, but it's there. I don't have access to any welding work but do have a grinder. I presume using the grinder to smooth/transition the groove is not advisable. (and could likely exacerbate the problem) ???

Laura

The problem is the groove in the striker bolt.

That is caused by not having the brass shim installed, which without it allows the soft striker bolt to ride on the cast stainless steel striker pocket.

That issue is also agravated by not having the running gear properly balanced.

Replacing the striker bolt and the brass shim in the striker pocket will fix the problem.

Andy

[funkill]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

The problem is the groove in the striker bolt.

That is caused by not having the brass shim installed, which without it allows the soft striker bolt to ride on the cast stainless steel striker pocket.

That issue is also agravated by not having the running gear properly balanced.

Replacing the striker bolt and the brass shim in the striker pocket will fix the problem.

Andy

I am pretty sure I can make those replacements/changes as I've had the latch removed previously for roll pin repair.

I am hoping my running gear is balanced... but will look into it this year! The list continues to grow. When I chose RV over Boat, I thought the maintenance would be less. ha. Well, it probably is less but it doesn't feel like it - especially in this heat and being away from the water.

Laura

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by funkill

I am pretty sure I can make those replacements/changes as I've had the latch removed previously for roll pin repair.

I am hoping my running gear is balanced... but will look into it this year! The list continues to grow. When I chose RV over Boat, I thought the maintenance would be less. ha. Well, it probably is less but it doesn't feel like it - especially in this heat and being away from the water.

Laura

Well Laura, the good news about an Airstream when it leaks, (maintenance) you only have to replace the floor.

But when a boat leaks, it sinks.

Andy

[TG Twinkie]

If you think the problem is with the grove in the bolt. You can get a new bolt at "Out Of Doors Mart".

[funkill]

So, not long after I started this thread I headed across the country for a new job. The journey has continued and I've towed the Silver Olive back and forth across the country three times. I have worked on her now-and-again but, mostly, she's been just "waiting". Waiting for me to give her proper attention, waiting to go camping and see the splendid places that I dream of....

I finally have some time, and a place, to work on her. There are several things at the top of my priority list so that I can boondock. Getting the door to work properly is the TOP PRIORITY.

I was shocked to find that I can now, easily open and close the door using the latch. Maybe the years of having a block inserted under the adjacent r handle (securing the suicide door closed) caused some change in dynamics?

Or caused my new "issue". The door creaks LOUDLY when opening/closing. It seems to be at the upper hinge. I've used a variety of lubricants and nothing is easing the sound - or the feel. There is noticeable friction in the movement. Like a slight ratcheting feeling. I cannot lift the door up in the hinges, or observe any change in the door curvature. There is more gap/bowing in some places than others (i.e. the edge is not flush with the trailer on the open/non-hinge side).

Any ideas?

Laura

[funkill]

Another interesting observation....

The plastic catch that usually secures the screen door to the main door has pulled loose again (popped the outboard rivet). This is the second time it's happened. I previously popped open the catch and re-riveted it to the main door.

Could this be associated - and indication of an underlying problem?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by funkill

Another interesting observation....

The plastic catch that usually secures the screen door to the main door has pulled loose again (popped the outboard rivet). This is the second time it's happened. I previously popped open the catch and re-riveted it to the main door.

Could this be associated - and indication of an underlying problem?

Your squeaky hinges are always lubed with "silicone spray".

The groove in the striker bolt is cause by "unbalanced running gear".

That same unbalance also is usually the cause of breaking latches or loosing rivets, such as your screen door latch.

Broken copper tubing in the water system as well as the air conditioner, fatigue cracks in the sheet metal, fatigue cracks in the frame, shearing of rivets, inside and out, breaking copper wire within the walls, is all caused by unbalanced running gear.

Plus, bad rubber rods within the axles are known to also contribute to some strange damages to an Airstream trailer. Torsion axles, regardless of manufacture, only last about 25 years, or even less if the rubber rods were not exercised for a couple of years or so.

Andy

[funkill]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Your squeaky hinges are always lubed with "silicone spray".

The groove in the striker bolt is cause by "unbalanced running gear".

That same unbalance also is usually the cause of breaking latches or loosing rivets, such as your screen door latch.

Broken copper tubing in the water system as well as the air conditioner, fatigue cracks in the sheet metal, fatigue cracks in the frame, shearing of rivets, inside and out, breaking copper wire within the walls, is all caused by unbalanced running gear.

Plus, bad rubber rods within the axles are known to also contribute to some strange damages to an Airstream trailer. Torsion axles, regardless of manufacture, only last about 25 years, or even less if the rubber rods were not exercised for a couple of years or so.

Andy

New Henschen axles installed about 7 yrs ago. No new fatigue cracks or significant shearing of rivets since new axles. When I obtained the trailer, there was a good deal of interior panel damage, shearing of rivets and major component movement from walls. I still get some rivets popping but for the numerous cross country moves, including some bad dirt roads and low maintenance/care, I don't feel that it's unwarranted.

But the squeaky hinge continues to worry me.

Anyone have suggestions on what to look for or how to attack this?

Laura

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by funkill

But the squeaky hinge continues to worry me.

Anyone have suggestions on what to look for or how to attack this?

Laura

Laura,

Lube the hinge, again and again and again. As many times as necessary to help the silicone work it's way into the hinge.

Andy

[TG Twinkie]

If there is an AGCO farm implement dealer where you are.
Go there an buy a can of their penetrating oil. It is by far the best I have ever used. I am a retired farmer. Used it for years.