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Old 09-10-2004, 10:17 PM   #1
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'71 Door Weatherstrip

I had some weatherstrip I purchased a couple of years ago and never used yet.

It's the correct double flaired type for the main door and windows.

Today I decided to do the access doors as well. The ones that access the fridge and battery.

It seems to work ok but the doors no longer close flush. Probably just because the rubber is new.

But I wanted to make sure the same material is used on the access doors as well as the main door.

Now I have to start all the windows. Any tips?
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Old 09-11-2004, 07:44 AM   #2
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Tim

Call someone to do it for you! Just kidding.
I am about to do my entire Argosy 20 and need to order 53 feet of the gasket material.
My idea is to remove the windows and access doors to easily replace the material; the windows really are easy to take off.
Now that I think about it, maybe I will call someone.

Rick
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Old 09-11-2004, 11:13 AM   #3
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Rick and Tim.

Replacing those gaskets is easy.

The hard part, is keeping the black super weatherstrip adhesive off your hands, face, arms and your hair.

It's especially difficult, if you have it on your hands, and pick up a beer can.
You won't be able to put the can down, and leave it.

That's the reason you should use a helper. Not to help with the gasket, but to lift the beer can up so you can take a sip, or two, or three, or.............

Makes the job go faster, too.

But don't use your wife to help you with the beer can. She will never understand the physics.

Andy
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Old 09-11-2004, 02:43 PM   #4
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It wasn't too tough.

I already did the main door and the two access doors.

My main question is the gasket material for the access doors the same as the main door on a '71 Safari?

Thanks
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Old 09-11-2004, 02:56 PM   #5
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Safari Tim.

You betcha.

The double flared gasket was used on the windows from 1966 to the mid 90's.

That same gasket was used on the entrance doors from 1964 to to 1973.

Also that same gasket was used on the access compartment doors from 1964 to 1972.

Andy
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Old 09-11-2004, 03:24 PM   #6
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Thanks for the info.

Of course now I'm going to be short some since I didn't think about the access doors when I ordered it:-)
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Old 09-12-2004, 04:51 PM   #7
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Gaskets

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Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Thanks for the info.

Of course now I'm going to be short some since I didn't think about the access doors when I ordered it:-)
Tim,
I replaced all the gaskets on our 1971 34' Safari last Spring. Ordered it from Inland RV. Not a big problem, just takes time. Scraping the old adhesive off is a bit of a challenge. Use the black adhesive instead of the yellow. It looks better on your hands and matches more things you might wear for the next few days.
Dan
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Old 09-12-2004, 05:00 PM   #8
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Dan

Wear the el cheapo plastic gloves. Works for us.

Also, to remove the old gasket remnants and the old adhesive, use a wire wheel in an electric or air drill.

Have someone hold the window, put the rotating wire wheel to the backside of the sash, and away it goes.

Should take about two minutes, per window (not counting a beer break).

Andy
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Old 09-12-2004, 11:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Brawner
Tim,
I replaced all the gaskets on our 1971 34' Safari last Spring. Ordered it from Inland RV. Not a big problem, just takes time. Scraping the old adhesive off is a bit of a challenge. Use the black adhesive instead of the yellow. It looks better on your hands and matches more things you might wear for the next few days.
Dan
Dan. Did you take the windows off when you did them? If so, how easily do they come off?

To clean up the edges for the glue, I used my dremal tool with a little grinding type wheel. It cleaned it up nicely and easily.

By the way, I'd love to see a picture of your 1971 34' Safari
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:51 AM   #10
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Gasket time

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Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Dan. Did you take the windows off when you did them? If so, how easily do they come off?

To clean up the edges for the glue, I used my dremal tool with a little grinding type wheel. It cleaned it up nicely and easily.

By the way, I'd love to see a picture of your 1971 34' Safari
Tim,
I made a mistake. Our Safari is 23' not 34'. There are a few pictures on my home page. I was not able to remove the windows. I removed the inside window frame and did all the work from the inside with the window raised as much as possible. I helped a friend who has a '73 Overlander and we were able to remove the windows. Sure was a lot easier.

Andy,
Thanks for the advice on wire wheel use on the windows. I'll try that when I replace the gaskets again in about 30 years.
Dan
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:01 AM   #11
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Tim

I removed my windows on the 1973 Sovereign by undoing the two side brackets and then opening the window all the way. All the way means that the bottom of the window will be pointing to the sky! Now slide the window off the rail-if you can. You may alternatively pull downward on the window so the window will come out of the rail; work carefully so you don't drop the window as it pops out. The rail is a tight circle shape that the window, also a tight circle shape, fits into. It is the same design as the access doors; and you know how easy they are to remove.

Replacing the window takes a bit more effort because you will likely need to use a mallet to carefully tap the window rail into the fixed rail if you were not able to slide the window off the rail. I also used a wooden stick that fitted nicely into the groove at the top of the window to tap on so the mallet did not mar the aluminum. You'll need extra hands to help because you need two hands to hold the window and another pair to do the tapping as needed. Wider windows require the most effort.

While you have the windows off, you may want to tint them. That is easy, too.

Rick
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:54 AM   #12
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I found that the 3M adhesive didn't do the job on the main entry door. tried it 3 times, scraping the door down to bare shiny metal each time, removing every trace from the gasket...it just wasn't strong enough of a bond to withstand the "pinch" that happens to it on the hinge side of the door. It was sticking to the metal just fine...but not to the rubber. I finally broke down and went to NAPA to see what they had. They recommended a "permatex" super-weatherstrip adhesive. its yellow. They told me that "all the body shop guys swear by this stuff"...so I gave it a shot, and it did the trick.

the black 3m stuff did work ok on the windows.

couple of other thoughts:

I thought that the windows on the 71 were exactly the same as on the 73. if they are, then all you have to do to remove them is disconnect the operating arms, and lift the window up beyond 90 degrees, and it'll drop right out of its hinge. Reverse the procedure to re-install.

I never tried the big wire-wheel in the drill technique; I did use a dremel with a wire wheel....they get eaten up fast. I was afraid of losing control of a larger wheel on the door, possibly losing control and scratching something I didn't want to scratch. The dremel worked, but it was slow and tedious. On the windows, it wouldn't be as much of a concern to use a large wheel...what I did was slice off the old gasket as best as I could with a razor knife, then I applied methyline chloride (aicraft stripper) to the remainder. that softens things right up, and I was able to scrape things off pretty easily with a putty knife. still, time consuming. I'll try the wire-wheel thing next time. (still have 3 windows to do... 3 down; 3 to go...).

Also: It looks to me like they were using this gasket on the 1973's battery compartment, and fridge access doors. If it wasn't done by the factory, then it was done by someone else, because that's what's there on mine. Is that wrong? it looks like its an appropriate gasket for those areas.
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Old 09-13-2004, 12:59 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the input guys. I'll look into removing the windows as that would make the job a lot easier.

Chuck. I did use the same gasket material on the battery and fridge access doors. Andy mentioned also that they are the same for the all the doors and windows too.

I used a putty knive and knocked the old gasket material off pretty easily. Almost in one piece. Then I used the dremal tool with a grinding wheel on it to clean up the metal nicely.

The 3M super weather strip adesive (the black stuff) seems to be working well for me.
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Old 09-13-2004, 01:12 PM   #14
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Andy said it was used on the access doors 'till 72...hence my question. perhaps a simply typo...or some PO put the wrong stuff on my trailer.

I don't "get" the 3M glue problem that I had on the door. 3M is what everyone uses, its what Andy says to use, and nobody in the history of airstreaming has ever had a problem with it, until *I* used it. just my luck, I guess. I'm not suggesting that anyone else use it, unless they, too, have a problem. for me, the permatex worked where the 3M failed. I don't know why.

Whatever it was that was used to install the last gasket on my trailer....needs some sort of thermo-nuclear reaction to get it off. It is a b**ch to remove. It didn't look like the black 3M stuff...or quite like the yellow permatex stuff, either. (I understand that 3M makes some yellow stuff, too, that they also call "super weatherstrip adhesive"....different lable than the stuff I bought...I wonder what the difference is, if any, other than the color?). It looked opaque, kind of yellowish. who knows...anyway, I went through 2 dremel wire wheels on the door, per attempt.
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