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Old 06-21-2006, 03:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Safari Tim.

You betcha.

The double flared gasket was used on the windows from 1966 to the mid 90's.

That same gasket was used on the entrance doors from 1964 to to 1973.

Also that same gasket was used on the access compartment doors from 1964 to 1972.

Andy
Andy,

Is that 1964 thru 1972 on the access compartment door gasket?

I have a 1972 27' Overlander and want to make sure Door, Windows and Access compartment doors all use the same gasket.
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Old 06-21-2006, 05:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loechli
Andy,

Is that 1964 thru 1972 on the access compartment door gasket?

I have a 1972 27' Overlander and want to make sure Door, Windows and Access compartment doors all use the same gasket.

The gasket in that photo, part # 45295, is used on Airstream compartment doors from, 1964 to 1972.

It's also used on the entrance doors from 1964 to 1972.

It's also used on the windows from 1966 through 1996.

It is always installed with 3M Super weatherstrip adhesive.

Contact cement or cheap adhesives will not hold the gasket in place properly.

Andy
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Old 06-21-2006, 05:37 PM   #17
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Just to be absolutely sure,
When you say to 1972 are you including 1972?
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Old 06-21-2006, 05:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loechli
Just to be absolutely sure,
When you say to 1972 are you including 1972?

Those years are inclusive.

Therefore 1972, means 1972.

Andy
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Old 06-21-2006, 08:19 PM   #19
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How 'bout 73?

Okay, last year I ordered enough gasket material from InlandRV to do all the windows, door, and access compartments on the '72 Overlander (finished and sold) as well as the '73 Sovereign (still sitting under tarp, sad and neglected).

Everything looked the same to me on the two units with the exception of the main door hinge. I'm planning on using the double flared stuff throughout the '73 Sovereign.

What did it change to?

Also, since you're on this thread Andy, what is the trick to using that 3m stuff? It seems to come right off sometimes and then other times, it will stick. I mean, I finished the job and all but didn't feel that I was any better with the black gorilla snot at the end of the job (every window in the Overlander, plus main door....I did the compartments last year) than I was at the beginning. I will eventually get to the Sovereign later this year and would like to do a better job at it. (Read...less wasted adhesive)
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Old 06-22-2006, 09:03 AM   #20
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yeah, now I'm confused, too. I used it on "everything" in my '73. now, I'm wondering if something else should have been used on the access door/battery box. my battery box doesn't seal right. I've found that water gets in there. but that could be because something is bent...there is evidence of prior damage in that general vicinity, and it might not have been repaired quite perfectly. but that gasket on the door doesn't seal completely.

I had trouble w/ the black stuff, too. I thought I was the only one; never heard anyone else mention it 'till now, so I figured it must be me. I had no trouble w/ the windows, but I had to do the entry door 3 times before it would stick!! Had better luck w/ the "gorilla snot" (thats exactly what the guys at NAPA called it). Its yellow...I think put out by "permatex". Interestingly, my dad had a tube of stuff called "3m super gasket adhesive", but it looked to be the same as the Permatex stuff; yellow, not black. Tube had a different label color, too. It seems like they must package/label things differently for "industrial" vs. "consumer".
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Old 06-22-2006, 12:32 PM   #21
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Gasket adhesive

Using different gasket adhesives other than that recommended, will usually lead to early failure.

The "ONLY" gasket adhesive to use is 3M8008.

Airstream uses it, and we have sold it for years.

If you apply it correctly, the gasket will not come off, PERIOD.

It's the same stuff auto manufacturers use on door gaskets.

Again, reinventing the wheel?????

1. Clean the metal surface.

2. Apply a bead of adhesive to the metal, and to the back side of the gasket.

3. DO NOT SKIMP. One tube is good for 25 feet of gasket, installed.

4. When dry to the touch, 5 to 15 minutes, depending on the temperature, apply the gasket to the metal.

5. Press the gasket onto the metal firmly.

6. Close the window or door as the case maybe, to further seat the gasket.

7. After 24 hours or so, open the window or door, and apply silicone spray to the gasket and window or door frame. Flood the gasket with the silicone, again, do not skimp.

8. Close the window or door for 2 to 3 days or so.

9. After 2-3 days, open the door or window and wipe the excess silicone spray from the surfaces.

10. Respray with silicone spray once a year or so, and the gasket will last for many many years.

Again, if you use a cheap adhesive, you will get very poor results, guaranteed.

If you use the correct adhesive, you cannot remove the gasket without tearing it, guaranteed.

Andy
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Old 06-22-2006, 12:46 PM   #22
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Update on Weatherstip for 72

I have applied the new weatherstrip on 1 window, side access compartment and rear access compartment.

Everything went well except the back access door.
I did use the correct airstream weatherstip
I did use the 3M Black 3M8008
I followed all the steps listed above by Andy, but am still getting water in my rear compartment track.

I will attach a few pictures,
The other problem is the rear door will not close all the way, it now sticks out about 3/8".

It seems odd that the rear access door is the only opening without a rain gutter. Anyone else have this problem?
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Old 06-22-2006, 02:18 PM   #23
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loechli

The gasket should be seamed at the bottom of the door when the door is closed.

To find the leak, is easy.

Take a new dollar bill. A ten won't work???? LOL

Close the door on the dollar bill, then try to pull the bill out.

You will feel resistance as you pull on the bill.

Keep on doing that until you find little to no resistance. That will be your leak.

If you cannot find a weak spot, then the leak is not from the door.

Andy
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Old 06-22-2006, 03:01 PM   #24
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Thanks Andy,

If the rain holds off I will do the dollar bill test tonight.

How about the door not shutting all the way?
Is the Gasket put on in the correct way? Flanges out.
I matched the old install.

Steve
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Old 06-22-2006, 03:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loechli
Thanks Andy,

If the rain holds off I will do the dollar bill test tonight.

How about the door not shutting all the way?
Is the Gasket put on in the correct way? Flanges out.
I matched the old install.

Steve

Steve.

Flanges out is correct.

Your door could be warped.

If so, you have another repair job on your hands.

Put a straight line on the door and see what it tells you.

Andy
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Old 06-22-2006, 09:54 PM   #26
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Re-inventing the wheel (or restating the obvious)

Andy,

Thanks for "reinventing the wheel!" (I skimmed over previous posts and didn't notice your detailed instructions till after I'd posted.)

I'd never heard the silicone spray step so I guess I learned something new. I'll be sure to include that on all my gaskets.
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Old 06-23-2006, 07:03 AM   #27
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Well,

I did the dollar bill test last night and it seems fairly tight.

Before new gasket was put on the door was flush, it now is out about 3/8".
Is the gasket supposed to attach right at door edge or should there be a setback?

See photos.
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Old 06-23-2006, 02:58 PM   #28
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When I did the weather strips on my '71 Safari, they also did not close as flush as before.. But they did not seem to stick out as much as yours is.

Did you clean off all the old glue and gasket material down to the metal before glueing the new stuff on?

If its weather tight, I'd let it go. After the gasket seats a while it will close easier.
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