Visit our Popular Forums

Inland RV Center, In · 06-22-2006, 11:32 AM

Using different gasket adhesives other than that recommended, will usually lead to early failure.

The "ONLY" gasket adhesive to use is 3M8008.

Airstream uses it, and we have sold it for years.

If you apply it correctly, the gasket will not come off, PERIOD.

It's the same stuff auto manufacturers use on door gaskets.

Again, reinventing the wheel?????

1. Clean the metal surface.

2. Apply a bead of adhesive to the metal, and to the back side of the gasket.

3. DO NOT SKIMP. One tube is good for 25 feet of gasket, installed.

4. When dry to the touch, 5 to 15 minutes, depending on the temperature, apply the gasket to the metal.

5. Press the gasket onto the metal firmly.

6. Close the window or door as the case maybe, to further seat the gasket.

7. After 24 hours or so, open the window or door, and apply silicone spray to the gasket and window or door frame. Flood the gasket with the silicone, again, do not skimp.

8. Close the window or door for 2 to 3 days or so.

9. After 2-3 days, open the door or window and wipe the excess silicone spray from the surfaces.

10. Respray with silicone spray once a year or so, and the gasket will last for many many years.

Again, if you use a cheap adhesive, you will get very poor results, guaranteed.

If you use the correct adhesive, you cannot remove the gasket without tearing it, guaranteed.

Andy

loechli · 06-22-2006, 11:46 AM

I have applied the new weatherstrip on 1 window, side access compartment and rear access compartment.

Everything went well except the back access door.
I did use the correct airstream weatherstip
I did use the 3M Black 3M8008
I followed all the steps listed above by Andy, but am still getting water in my rear compartment track.

I will attach a few pictures,
The other problem is the rear door will not close all the way, it now sticks out about 3/8".

It seems odd that the rear access door is the only opening without a rain gutter. Anyone else have this problem?

Inland RV Center, In · 06-22-2006, 01:18 PM

loechli

The gasket should be seamed at the bottom of the door when the door is closed.

To find the leak, is easy.

Take a new dollar bill. A ten won't work???? LOL

Close the door on the dollar bill, then try to pull the bill out.

You will feel resistance as you pull on the bill.

Keep on doing that until you find little to no resistance. That will be your leak.

If you cannot find a weak spot, then the leak is not from the door.

Andy

loechli · 06-22-2006, 02:01 PM

Thanks Andy,

If the rain holds off I will do the dollar bill test tonight.

How about the door not shutting all the way?
Is the Gasket put on in the correct way? Flanges out.
I matched the old install.

Steve

Inland RV Center, In · 06-22-2006, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loechli

Thanks Andy,

If the rain holds off I will do the dollar bill test tonight.

How about the door not shutting all the way?
Is the Gasket put on in the correct way? Flanges out.
I matched the old install.

Steve

Steve.

Flanges out is correct.

Your door could be warped.

If so, you have another repair job on your hands.

Put a straight line on the door and see what it tells you.

Andy

PizzaChop · 06-22-2006, 08:54 PM

Andy,

Thanks for "reinventing the wheel!" (I skimmed over previous posts and didn't notice your detailed instructions till after I'd posted.)

I'd never heard the silicone spray step so I guess I learned something new. I'll be sure to include that on all my gaskets.

loechli · 06-23-2006, 06:03 AM

Well,

I did the dollar bill test last night and it seems fairly tight.

Before new gasket was put on the door was flush, it now is out about 3/8".
Is the gasket supposed to attach right at door edge or should there be a setback?

See photos.

Safari Tim · 06-23-2006, 01:58 PM

When I did the weather strips on my '71 Safari, they also did not close as flush as before.. But they did not seem to stick out as much as yours is.

Did you clean off all the old glue and gasket material down to the metal before glueing the new stuff on?

If its weather tight, I'd let it go. After the gasket seats a while it will close easier.

crane_ms · 03-21-2007, 01:15 PM

Where do you buy the gaskets for your door and window and what type do you buy.

Thanks,

Alice

loechli · 09-08-2009, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loechli

I have applied the new weatherstrip on 1 window, side access compartment and rear access compartment.

Everything went well except the back access door.
I did use the correct airstream weatherstip
I did use the 3M Black 3M8008
I followed all the steps listed above by Andy, but am still getting water in my rear compartment track.

I will attach a few pictures,
The other problem is the rear door will not close all the way, it now sticks out about 3/8".

It seems odd that the rear access door is the only opening without a rain gutter. Anyone else have this problem?

Andy, or anyone else

My rear door still does not close flush, see pictures in post # 22 and # 27, it did before install of new gasket, does the new D gasket #45370 let the door close tighter? You mention it works better than the old 45295, how so?

Steve

Dbraw · 09-09-2009, 05:41 AM

InlandRV is my source for weatherstripping.

loechli · 09-09-2009, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dbraw

InlandRV is my source for weatherstripping.

Thanks Dbraw,

I got my weatherstripping from InlandRV also, couple of years back.
At that time Andy was selling the double flange part # 45295,

I since have seen he is suggesting a new weatherstripping part # 45370, post 22 - 27 shows in pictures my problem of leak and door not closing all the way once the new weatherstripping was installed.

My question for Andy or anyone else that has experience with the new weatherstripping is, how does it perform bettter, is it a lower profile and thus allow my door to close, again take a look at post 22 - 27 to see pictures.