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Old 07-04-2005, 11:09 AM   #15
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T Man

A photo of the kit is in our web site, inlandrv.com.

Andy
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Old 04-06-2007, 01:51 AM   #16
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1972 25' Tradewind
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Looks like it's been a couple of years since the last post, I was wondering if anyone has come up with a less expensive solution for the 1970 - 72 latche/lock issue? Mine is not actuating from the inside but fine from the outside....

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Old 04-06-2007, 05:17 AM   #17
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There was a recent post on another thread by Andy, I believe, that one other less expensive Bargman lock could be adapted for use. I believe this included atttaching a new mounting plate to the inside oand outisde of the door.
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:38 AM   #18
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I finally pulled my door lock/latch out of the door and it was immediately obvious that the little lever that is activated by the inside handle was bent. I delicate aligned and reposition into place. After I cleaned it I lubed it up with silicon spray and put it back in and it works fabulously. Thanks everyone for your earlier input.

I had not been able to find photos of the lock before so I took a few before putting it back in the door.


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Old 04-28-2007, 11:09 AM   #19
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1976 Argosy 24
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I just purchased a '76 22 foot Argosy. The tumbler is missing because some kids broke into the trailer with a screwdriver. The previous owner said that the pin on the back of the tumbler broke off, but he doesn't know where the tumbler is. Other than the missing tumbler, the latch works fine. Are tumblers available? Does anyone know what my best option is? The entire Argosy is original and I'd like to keep it that way if possible.
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Old 12-23-2012, 06:47 AM   #20
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I just purchased a '76 22 foot Argosy. The tumbler is missing because some kids broke into the trailer with a screwdriver. The previous owner said that the pin on the back of the tumbler broke off, but he doesn't know where the tumbler is. Other than the missing tumbler, the latch works fine. Are tumblers available? Does anyone know what my best option is? The entire Argosy is original and I'd like to keep it that way if possible.
My way of doing this would be to find an original broken kt lock, pull the tumbler out (not very hard, theirs a plate on the tumbler that springs in and with pressure, allows you to slide the tumbler out) buy a key blank if you don't already have one, and get the key code and key made by a locksmith...this is assuming you don't have the key.

If you do have the key, just compress that plate, slide it in and make sure it fits with the metal grove that the interior door lock bolt uses. use a digital camera and take pictures so you know how it was when you pulled it out.

And for the love of god, do not use wd40, it works but attracts all sorts of messy crap later on down the road, use all purpose grease from a hardware store and lubricate all the roll pins, and actuation points. for the inside of the lock(The tumbler), use graphite to keep the tumbler pins in great working order or even to free em up.


P.S.
keeping things original is expensive..
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:13 AM   #21
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You can get a new lock cylinder (tumbler) at Vintage Trailer Supply. I would highly recommend installing a dead bolt or some other method of securing the door while traveling. If the door flys open going down the road there will be severe damage.
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:16 AM   #22
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You can get a new lock cylinder (tumbler) at Vintage Trailer Supply. I would highly recommend installing a dead bolt or some other method of securing the door while traveling. If the door flys open going down the road there will be severe damage.
Doesn't that require modifying the deadbolt pin?
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:31 AM   #23
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My way of doing this would be to find an original broken kt lock, pull the tumbler out (not very hard, theirs a plate on the tumbler that springs in and with pressure, allows you to slide the tumbler out) buy a key blank if you don't already have one, and get the key code and key made by a locksmith...this is assuming you don't have the key.

If you do have the key, just compress that plate, slide it in and make sure it fits with the metal grove that the interior door lock bolt uses. use a digital camera and take pictures so you know how it was when you pulled it out.

And for the love of god, do not use wd40, it works but attracts all sorts of messy crap later on down the road, use all purpose grease from a hardware store and lubricate all the roll pins, and actuation points. for the inside of the lock(The tumbler), use graphite to keep the tumbler pins in great working order or even to free em up.
P.S.
keeping things original is expensive..
Tumblers are available for the KT lock from parts stocking Airstream dealers.

Always have been.

Andy
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:32 AM   #24
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Not sure what you mean by the dead bolt pin. I installed a new cylinder in the KT lock on my '74 Argosy. But the hole that the cylinder is located is so worn that you have to fiddle with the lock to get it to lock and unlock. Decided to install a separate dead bolt to securely lock the door when traveling.
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:04 AM   #25
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You can get a new lock cylinder (tumbler) at Vintage Trailer Supply. I would highly recommend installing a dead bolt or some other method of securing the door while traveling. If the door flys open going down the road there will be severe damage.
I have been locked out of my Tradewind once too often. I never lock the KT.
I have decided against a deadbolt in my 71. It does not seem worth taking a chance drilling in the cast door jamb.

I have a locking hasp made by Stanley. Looks halfway decent, but you do have to drill a few holes in the skin. It looks more secure than it is, but it keeps the door closed on the road. If you are a burglar, or locked out, a pair of pliers will gain entry as fast as a key. I find the best place is about 1/3 the way up from the bottom of the door. If you put it near the door center it will interfere with a locked open position against the trailer skin.
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Old 12-23-2012, 12:21 PM   #26
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I have been locked out of my Tradewind once too often. I never lock the KT.
I have decided against a deadbolt in my 71. It does not seem worth taking a chance drilling in the cast door jamb.

I have a locking hasp made by Stanley. Looks halfway decent, but you do have to drill a few holes in the skin. It looks more secure than it is, but it keeps the door closed on the road. If you are a burglar, or locked out, a pair of pliers will gain entry as fast as a key. I find the best place is about 1/3 the way up from the bottom of the door. If you put it near the door center it will interfere with a locked open position against the trailer skin.
There's the thing about being "locked out".

With your system, you can very easily, be "locked in".

All someone has to do is put something in that hasp, and it's done.

Best way is to have a proper functioning entrance door lock.

Andy
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:33 PM   #27
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If you use a hasp. Just put the pad lock into the loop where it would normally go when locked. Then there is no chance of someone flipping the hasp over and locking you in.
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:44 PM   #28
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What I referred to is a locking hasp. It has a built in lock. If the locking part is locked after the door is opened there is no way to get locked in.
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