1974 Tradewind door handle

[jpatton3515]

my 74' airstream tradewind's door hand is broke. the pins that work the latch on the exterior door handle is missing. Does anyone know how to fix it or where i can buy another door handle/latch assembly? I just bought the tradewind yesterday so i'm trying to do all the small projects now.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by jpatton3515

my 74' airstream tradewind's door hand is broke. the pins that work the latch on the exterior door handle is missing. Does anyone know how to fix it or where i can buy another door handle/latch assembly? I just bought the tradewind yesterday so i'm trying to do all the small projects now.

1970 to 1977 Airstreams entrance door lock is called a "KT lock".

An Airstream parts stocking dealer will have those parts.

Be aware, that the parts are not cheap, as a new KT lock costs almost $500.00, not installed, plus shipping.

Andy

[azflycaster]

The door lock on your trailer is a very pricey and hard to find item. Here is a breakdown of the parts: Airstream Lock 1970-77

[TG Twinkie]

If the pin you are refering to is thru the bolt shaft. Which is operated by the pawl on the end of the shaft that is rotated when you pull the exterior handle.
It is a roll pin or split pin. They are available at most Auto Parts stores.
With the appropriate size pin punch, you can drive the broken pin out and install a new pin.
Pulling too hard on the handle and slamming the door closed is what breaks this pin. I always hold the handle out when closing the door.
Be sure to hold the spring and cap back when installing the new pin.

[pickerdd]

I have the same door handle/lock mentioned at the beginning of the thread in my '71 Safari. The problem I have is that the door latch doesn't recede all the way into the main assembly. Instead of the latch (sku 3035 from the diagram mentioned earlier in the thread) being flat with main assembly, the end of the latch stays out about 1/16". The door closes all the way, but it doesn't fully latch unless you push it kind of hard once it contacts the striker in the door frame.

I'm tempted to attempt to remove it and to clean it, but I'd hate to screw it up and have the internal pieces fall out and not be able to get it all back together. Usually I would just take it a part and figure it out on the fly, but I'm coming up on a 2 week trip starting the first week of September and I don't want to do something stupid to the latch this close to heading out.

Any advice?

Thanks!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by pickerdd

I have the same door handle/lock mentioned at the beginning of the thread in my '71 Safari. The problem I have is that the door latch doesn't recede all the way into the main assembly. Instead of the latch (sku 3035 from the diagram mentioned earlier in the thread) being flat with main assembly, the end of the latch stays out about 1/16". The door closes all the way, but it doesn't fully latch unless you push it kind of hard once it contacts the striker in the door frame.

I'm tempted to attempt to remove it and to clean it, but I'd hate to screw it up and have the internal pieces fall out and not be able to get it all back together. Usually I would just take it a part and figure it out on the fly, but I'm coming up on a 2 week trip starting the first week of September and I don't want to do something stupid to the latch this close to heading out.

Any advice?

Thanks!

David.

Apply some silicone spray to the striker bolt and striker pocket.

You will be amazed at the results.

Andy

[colberjs]

I'm sorry to hijack but while we are on the subject of door handles, can anybody tell me what kind of handle was originally on my '64 Sovereign?

Thanks.

[TG Twinkie]

Pickerdd: the lock assembly won't fall into pieces when you take it out of the door. You will need to remove the inside handle (1 set screw) and the lock handle. Which, if original is a small shoulder bolt. It is just below the inside handle. There are 2 or 3 screws thru the inside skin and one thru the edge of the door.
Depending on the circumstances, you may have to remove a couple of rivets on the inside skin in order for the inside door handle shaft to clear the skin. The whole lock assembly is removed from the outside.
Some other things to check is how the door sets in the opening. There should be equal space or gap around the door. If you are using stabilizer jacks, make sure they are just tight enough to prevent movement of the trailer. If they are too tight they can distort the shell and cause door problems.
I always hold the exterior door handle out when closing the door. This lock assembly is not very robust and you can damage it if the door is slammed shut. Do you know if the PO installed a new gasket on the door. This could be the reason you have to push on it to get the bolt to fully engage the striker pocket.
Personally I would rather have a door that latches tight as opposed to one that is lose in the striker pocket.

[pickerdd]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

David.

Apply some silicone spray to the striker bolt and striker pocket.

You will be amazed at the results.

Andy

Andy,

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll spray some lubricant where you suggested.

Thanks,

[pickerdd]

TG Twinkie,

Thanks for the info! I'll wait to remove the lock assembly until I get back from my trip out to Kansas. I appreciate the detailed information.