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Old 02-14-2008, 05:13 PM   #29
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Don,

Thanks for the tip. I've ordered the parts, that will be much easier than removing the old lock assembly.

The lock pin is costly for a tiny part ($29.95), but a lot cheaper than getting someone to make a "one-off" on an instrument lathe.
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Old 02-14-2008, 06:04 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbertF
Don,

Thanks for the tip. I've ordered the parts, that will be much easier than removing the old lock assembly.

The lock pin is costly for a tiny part ($29.95), but a lot cheaper than getting someone to make a "one-off" on an instrument lathe.
You will still have to remove the lock.

Why??

The "pin" is threaded into the vertical lock shaft. When the pin broke off, the threads on the end of the pin are still in the vertical locking shaft.

The threaded end of the old pin, will have to be removed from the vertical locking shaft, before you can thread the new pin in place.

Also, please be aware, that the thread size on the new pin, may be different than the old pin, as they are many times.

Andy
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:38 AM   #31
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I was being optimistic. We'll see how it goes. It would be nice to retain the original assembly.
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Old 02-15-2008, 12:20 PM   #32
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Speaking of locks, does anyone know a trick or proper way to getting the cylinder lock out of the fresh water opening? I have no key for that lock or the same type lock on the fridge access. Any help would be much appreciated. I have a 75 Argosy.
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Old 02-15-2008, 04:42 PM   #33
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Check out the website that Don Boyd referred to. I saw a key advertised. They also have compartment locks.
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Old 02-16-2008, 08:03 AM   #34
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Lock Parts

I just pulled our door lock yesterday from our '74 Ambassador, and will be installing one of the new locks we purchased from Andy. The lock cylinder was getting really seriously loose, but everything else was working OK. If anyone wants the old KT lock, or pictures of the working mechanisms, or has questions about getting it out, please let me know.
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Old 02-16-2008, 08:17 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maccamper
I just pulled our door lock yesterday from our '74 Ambassador, and will be installing one of the new locks we purchased from Andy. The lock cylinder was getting really seriously loose, but everything else was working OK. If anyone wants the old KT lock, or pictures of the working mechanisms, or has questions about getting it out, please let me know.
See PM I just sent you please.
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Old 02-16-2008, 09:03 AM   #36
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Lock Parts -- Found a home

It appears that the old KT lock I'm replacing has found a new home.

The offer to provide pictures of the working mechanisms or answers to questions about how I removed the lock still stands.
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Old 02-17-2008, 02:09 PM   #37
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'74 KT lock removal

Removing the lock is not all that hard, after you have done it the first time and see how it goes together.

The lock was originally installed, and must be removed, from outside the trailer. There are three screws on the inside that must be taken out, and one just above the door latch. Once the door handle is removed along with the knurled locking pin, all the rest of it goes through the outside skin.

The lock does not go straight out, it has to be pulled towards the rear of the trailer and slid out once the latch clears the frame. There are several rivets that must be drilled from the inside skin so the skin can then be pulled in (out from the door) about 1/4 to 1/2" to allow the door handle shaft to be slid back and out. I way overdid it on rivet removal, I think about five or six rivets would be sufficient.

Once the screws are removed along with the inside rivets, the next step is outside the trailer. The lock assembly has a gasket that goes all around the frame. On my trailer, this gasket was stuck tight to the lock and to the frame, so nothing budged initially. I took a thin, sharp putty knife and worked it very gently between the gasket and the lock all around the perimeter. Nothing moved until I had worked my way entirely around the lock, only then did it start to break free.

Once the lock frame was loose, it was simply a matter of pulling back and out on the lock while getting the door handle shaft past the hole in the inside skin. The pictures below may help. The lock was cleaned up considerably before taking the pictures. I scraped off a lot of hard, black gunk that once may have been grease and was providing little to no lubrication. Could it be that these locks should be cleaned and relubed every 30 years whether they need it or not? It may help keep parts from breaking.

If anyone has questions, just ask.

Laird aka maccamper
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Old 02-17-2008, 03:15 PM   #38
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MacCamper - do you have any pics of the new kit lock intallation. I've never seen one actually in place. Thanks....
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Old 02-17-2008, 03:47 PM   #39
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new lock kit

I am about right in the middle of installing the new kit. For our '74, there is more trimming and fitting than I anticipated, primarily to avoid interference with the screen door. I will be glad to post in-progress and final pictures when the job is completed.
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Old 02-24-2008, 01:33 PM   #40
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new lock installed

The new lock installation is done, finally. There were decisions to be made during the installation process, such as whether keep the old strike plate or install the new, how much to shim, whether to fabricate a dust box if the new strike plate is used, etc.

One of the big decisions is whether to install the plate that covers the old lock opening as provided and shown in the instuctions, or to modify it. I chose to shorten it up, so I would not be installing a row of new rivets on top of a row of existing rivets. I also rounded the corners on the plate more, that just seemed to look better with our model.

I ended up cutting about 1/4" off the inside handle plate and raising the lock up in the door about 1/4" in order to clear the screen door framing, but that may not be necessary on a different model or year. I hope this info is helpful.
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Old 02-24-2008, 01:37 PM   #41
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Nice work. Thanks for posting the pics - looks a lot better than I thought it would. The rounded corners are a good idea.
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Old 03-18-2008, 10:03 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbertF
Don,

The lock pin is costly for a tiny part ($29.95), but a lot cheaper than getting someone to make a "one-off" on an instrument lathe.
I just rebuilt my KT and was also surprised at the cost of the "knurled inside handle" (also $29.95). Mine was missing so I did not know exactly what it looked like. It is a simple shaft with 8-32 threads on one end. I checked in my hardware stock and I could have retrofitted a 8-32 x 1-1/4" socket head cap screw in it's place. Would not have exactly been original but costs $0.60 and it is heat treated!
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