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Old 03-07-2016, 09:06 PM   #15
Rivet Master
 
2016 30' Classic
Erie , Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2013
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On my 2015 Classic I have my cables lying loose behind the refrigerator vent door. I have three. One for ham radio, one Cat5 for my WiFi ranger and lastly connection for the WeBoost 4G-X. Reason I leave the WeBoost loose is that I can then choose the antenna du jour. I mount my antennas on a painters pole stuck in the flag pole bracket on the tongue jack. Either the Trucker or the Yagi depending on what I need for power. Same for the WiFiRanger Elite antenna.
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Old 07-11-2016, 06:28 PM   #16
Dan & Sue Busse
 
2016 30' Classic
Wildwood , Missouri
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 14
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Originally Posted by ghaynes755 View Post
On my 2015 Classic I have my cables lying loose behind the refrigerator vent door. I have three. One for ham radio, one Cat5 for my WiFi ranger and lastly connection for the WeBoost 4G-X. Reason I leave the WeBoost loose is that I can then choose the antenna du jour. I mount my antennas on a painters pole stuck in the flag pole bracket on the tongue jack. Either the Trucker or the Yagi depending on what I need for power. Same for the WiFiRanger Elite antenna.
Gary-

Did you do the antennas or have it done? I too, and a ham, and had considered dropping a few NMO mounts in my 2016 Classic, as well as a trip-band dome for cell, wifi, and GPS. My thought like yours is to terminate them behind the refrigerator.

Thoughts?

Dan KA0TER
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Old 07-12-2016, 08:29 AM   #17
Rivet Master
 
2016 30' Classic
Erie , Colorado
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Dan I am of the anti drilling holes in the roof persuasion. So all of my antennas are external with the cable connections in the lower fridge vent. Ham Radio antenna, Wilson cell antenna and the Cat5 for my WifiRanger Elite all terminate there, just pigtails laying on the floor.

The vent has a couple of notches for drainage in the bottom. I lay the cables there and close the vent.

Wilson and Elite if I need them go on painter poles mounted in my flag pole holder. I use a BuddiPole setup as a vertical on a tripod for the HF stuff.

Inside the WeBoost and WifiRanger Go2 are in the side long locker which is next to the refrig and the ham antenna is along that same wall. So easy to snake connections. On the 2015 Classic there is 12v/120v power available in that cabinet.

If you look through the forums many folks would add wifi/cell antennas to the roof. Popular but no longer on the new classics was to mount them to the tilt up TV antenna. Mounting close to the fridge if you use NMO's would make a cable pull very easy.

One reason I did it the way I did is that I have both a unidirectional and a WeBoost directional Yagi and wanted to be able to switch between them depending on signals. Also getting either the cell or the wifi up 16ft helps with reception.
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Old 01-03-2017, 09:30 PM   #18
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2016 23' Flying Cloud
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2016
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Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
Does anyone have experience routing a cable into a Flying Cloud 23D and booster placement?
On our 23D, we decided to try a Yagi directional antenna on a mast first (before resorting to a "booster" RF amplifier).

Here's a picture of the test set-up:
A piece of scrap 2x12 under the tongue jack, with a 1-1/4" floor flange and 24" pipe nipple form the base.
The mast is a Max Gain Systems (MGS) 33 ft telescoping Fiberglas mast; it's WAY overkill for this application. It's only extended about 13-14 feet, so didn't need guys, even in 20 knot wind last weekend in Rockport TX. A similar length of study PVC would be fine, as long as the antenna is about 2 meters away from the trailer body.
The Yagi is part of a kit available on Amazon, which includes 30 ft of low-loss coax and an adapter cable for your hotspot (in our case, AT&T, $10/month using our existing cell data minutes; if starting from scratch, I would have selected Verizon, I think.)

The cable is routed into the battery box, then into the trailer through one of the flexible conduits which used-to contain the inverter cables (since relocated to a marine battery switch inside).

Where we formerly struggled to get reliable 3G in this State Park, we got 4 bars of 4G LTE. The trick is to use a web app to find the nearest cell tower, then a compass to aim the antenna. +\- 10 degrees seems to be close enough for Government work.

A better, more permanent solution would be to make a bracket for the rear bumper to hold the antenna, then route the cable either through the rear compartment, or a dedicated coax box on the aft end, or even to repurpose the exterior cable inlet (although that would require snaking new cell coax in place of the lossy cable TV coax).

If necessary, we can always add a "booster", but the Yagi has ~11 dB gain which combined with the improved elevation and being outside the Faraday Cage of the A/S shell, is likely all we'll need.
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