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Old 03-18-2018, 02:20 PM   #1
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Weboost external antenna

I have had the weboost with the Wilson truckers spring mount antenna for over a year. It works ok but wonder if I’d get better performance if I went to a 4g Omni cylinder type antenna. Anyone have experience with both?
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:46 PM   #2
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Here is the one I will be installing in a few weeks:

Sure all 9.5” Omni channel 2/3/4G LTE antenna....

https://www.solidsignal.com/m/produc...SABEgJXF_D_BwE
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Old 03-18-2018, 03:31 PM   #3
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Here is the one I will be installing in a few weeks:

Sure all 9.5” Omni channel 2/3/4G LTE antenna....

https://www.solidsignal.com/m/produc...SABEgJXF_D_BwE


Ditto on the SureCall. We have this one and it has worked great for us and comes recommended by a forum member who does these installs for a living...lewster.
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Old 03-18-2018, 03:39 PM   #4
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The link took me to a 75ohm version. I think the weboost requires a 50 ohm antenna, right?
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Old 03-18-2018, 03:42 PM   #5
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The link took me to a 75ohm version. I think the weboost requires a 50 ohm antenna, right?


Yes, 50 ohm. It is also available on Amazon.
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Old 03-21-2018, 06:21 PM   #6
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I also just installed the SureCall to feed the SureCall cell booster and Bullet WiFi booster and router.
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Old 03-21-2018, 06:33 PM   #7
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be sure to get the ant with the same impedance, otherwise you will loose gain from the mismatch.

50 ohm and 75 ohm are not compatible

50 is usually for radios
75 is usually for TV
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Old 03-21-2018, 07:20 PM   #8
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You want the flat directional unit (about 7 inches by 12 inches). It has 10 dB better reception, but you need to be sitting in one place (not rolling).
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Old 03-22-2018, 07:14 PM   #9
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I also just installed the SureCall to feed the SureCall cell booster and Bullet WiFi booster and router.


Love the mount. Looks like one I had on my boat back in the day. Would mind sharing what type it is and where did you purchase it?
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Old 03-22-2018, 11:45 PM   #10
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Love the mount. Looks like one I had on my boat back in the day. Would mind sharing what type it is and where did you purchase it?
I bought the PDQ Connect One Source for cell, WiFi and HDTV fed from the PDQ Omni-directional antenna. They supplied a SureCall cell booster, Bullet WiFi booster, router and all the associated coax, internal antennas, etc. They supply solutions to the marine side hence the marine mount which is the same as I have on my boat for the VHS which is perfect as I have to lower it to clear the garage overhead. I kept the TV on the Winegard Omni RoadStar because the Winegard booster will not work behind the three way splitter so I used the two way splitter and raised the RoadStar above the AC. Heading to the coast this weekend for our first trip out, hopefully it will prove to have been worth the cost and effort!
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:12 AM   #11
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How did you folks get the antenna wire inside the trailer, especially on the newer Airstreams with a double roof?

I would have loved to use the TV antenna cable since we never watch live TV. Is there a way? This is for the WeBoost 4G-X if that matters.
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Old 03-23-2018, 06:05 AM   #12
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Refrigerator vent. Remove the cap, then carefully run it under the screen over the vent stack. 3M VHB the cover back down the cover the base with SikaFlex 221.
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Old 03-23-2018, 04:26 PM   #13
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How did you folks get the antenna wire inside the trailer, especially on the newer Airstreams with a double roof?

I would have loved to use the TV antenna cable since we never watch live TV. Is there a way? This is for the WeBoost 4G-X if that matters.
As mojoe says. You have to drill out the rivets holding down the vent cover. I used SS sheet metal screws to replace and covered with Siikaflex 221. I have fished this vent on an International Serenity 25FB and now on my Classic 30. I found it was easier to fish the 25 as the Classic is a lot tighter. I used a cheap Harbor Freight screw together fiberglass fishing rod for fishing wire to push up from the bottom until I found the top and then was able to spot the rod from the vent and pull it up far enough to attach the coax. Be sure to also attach some nylon kitchen cord to it so the next time you can just tie on and pull down. Good luck!
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Old 03-23-2018, 04:37 PM   #14
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As mojoe says. You have to drill out the rivets holding down the vent cover. I used SS sheet metal screws to replace and covered with Siikaflex 221. I have fished this vent on an International Serenity 25FB and now on my Classic 30. I found it was easier to fish the 25 as the Classic is a lot tighter. I used a cheap Harbor Freight screw together fiberglass fishing rod for fishing wire to push up from the bottom until I found the top and then was able to spot the rod from the vent and pull it up far enough to attach the coax. Be sure to also attach some nylon kitchen cord to it so the next time you can just tie on and pull down. Good luck!


Just drill off the tops of the rivets. Then use 3M VHB tape on the under side of the vent cover to reattach it, no need for screws. Be sure both surfaces are clean and use alcohol to be sure there is no oily residue before reattaching the cover. Then cover the whole vent cover base with SikaFlex 221, taking care to be sure all the rivet holes are covered. It won’t move once the SikaFlex cures.
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Old 03-23-2018, 04:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daleyocum View Post
How did you folks get the antenna wire inside the trailer, especially on the newer Airstreams with a double roof?

I would have loved to use the TV antenna cable since we never watch live TV. Is there a way? This is for the WeBoost 4G-X if that matters.
Unless the newer AS is different, you can pull out the HDTV booster and disconnect the antenna coax, insert a double female to attach your coax to the WeBoost coax assuming it tolerates 75 ohm coax.
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Old 03-23-2018, 07:26 PM   #16
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Just drill off the tops of the rivets. Then use 3M VHB tape on the under side of the vent cover to reattach it, no need for screws. Be sure both surfaces are clean and use alcohol to be sure there is no oily residue before reattaching the cover. Then cover the whole vent cover base with SikaFlex 221, taking care to be sure all the rivet holes are covered. It won’t move once the SikaFlex cures.
Understood, but I used screws to facilitate ease of removal in the future. Removing something held down with VHB tape is a bear....
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Old 03-23-2018, 07:32 PM   #17
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Understood, but I used screws to facilitate ease of removal in the future. Removing something held down with VHB tape is a bear....


True that! I understand, I’m hoping I only have to remove it one time! I hope my comment did not come off as criticizing, just offering an alternative.
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Old 03-23-2018, 11:42 PM   #18
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True that! I understand, I’m hoping I only have to remove it one time! I hope my comment did not come off as criticizing, just offering an alternative.
No offense taken, more than one solution to the same problem is what makes the forum so valuable.
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:30 AM   #19
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Unless the newer AS is different, you can pull out the HDTV booster and disconnect the antenna coax, insert a double female to attach your coax to the WeBoost coax assuming it tolerates 75 ohm coax.
Has anybody actually tried mating the 50ohm to 75ohm cables? I wonder how big a loss that impedance mismach would cause?


Thanks for all the advice to on going down the fridge vent. I suspect I’ll end up doing that unless a better idea presents itself. I have to run solar wires as well so it’s good to know what I’m facing.
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Old 09-23-2018, 09:18 AM   #20
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does it work to hook up the coax from the outside antenna to the satellite in connection on the outside of the trailer and then run the coax that hooks up to the inside receiver to the satellite out connection inside the trailer? Would that eliminate the need to come though the roof?
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