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Old 10-17-2011, 01:29 PM   #295
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Often the noise source turns out to be switching power supplies. Since you have already cleared the one on the radio I would next look toward the built in charger in the trailer and inverters if any.
Unless you don't boondock it is better to run the lines from the battery so you don't need an AC source to run the radio.
The first thing I would try is unplugging the trailer from shore power and running an extension cord to the radio from the house to see if the noise disappears.
Although the radio may require a max of 41 amps which means big wire, the actual load, assuming SSB averages out a LOT less so battery life is not a big concern even when boondocking.
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Old 10-17-2011, 02:10 PM   #296
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Thanks for the reply. The trailer has a new Progressive Dynamics PD4560 power panel amd converter. The 41 amps is if you use the whole 200 watts on a high duty cycle. I eventually want to get my PSK31 and other digital modes to the trailer, but that is only about 25 watts power output.

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Ken
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Old 10-17-2011, 02:53 PM   #297
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New Forum: HAM Radio

Wow!!! Look at the number of views and replies!! I think "HAM" should be a new forum category!!!
And I don't even own a HAM radio (Yet).
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Old 10-17-2011, 03:05 PM   #298
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There are now a bit over 700,000 licensed hams in the USA now. It is a great hobby when you can sit in your shack and talk to people in Japan, Australia and such with a 100 watt radio and a wire antenna.....for free (not counting the cost of the equipment).

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Old 10-17-2011, 03:58 PM   #299
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Amateur Radio

Try googling (dreamstream odossey...chasing 75 degrees). These folks have a web site that tells you about thier experiences in setting up ham radio in thier A/S. They have lots of pictures and have been doing this for several years. Both wife and husband are hams. Happy camping nm1oqrz
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:28 PM   #300
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Does the government know it's free?!? :-)
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:44 AM   #301
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I have a fairly recent battery charger that I got from Camping World a few years ago when the fan died in my old one, the night before a September VHF contest. I run the radios from either a switcher from my shack or I power them from an AGM battery that is connected into the 12V power system. That covers the surges that would shutdown the Icom radios if the voltage dropped too low during transmit. None of my radios have had any problems with noise running them that way.

You need to try running the radios off of 12V (receive only works fine) with and without shore power enabled. That should tell you where the problem is. Also try turning on and off any of the appliances and if you have any florescent lighting, do the same, you may have a bad ballast that is radiating.
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:07 AM   #302
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You might take a look at the N8XJK boost regulators (MFJ also has one) that will give you 13.2 VDC on transmit even when the battery voltage drops to 11 volts. I'm using one in my '99 trailer and have 2 group 27 AGM batteries in parallel and an Intelli-Power charger converter. I cannot detect any spurious noise coming out of this unit on 40 or 20M. I ran 10 ga. wire back from the batteries to the dinette and mounted the boost regulator on the trailer wall. It has an RF sense circuit that turns it on only on transmit to keep the voltage at a level the radio will tolerate.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:34 PM   #303
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I never recommend the boost regulators because of the risk of destroying your battery(s). Once a battery drops under 12V it really doesn't have much power left in it, even a new one. Once you hit 11.5V most batteries are considered fully discharged.
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:50 PM   #304
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While this is true, it is based on 11.5 volts with no load on the battery. Due to the internal resistance of the battery the voltage will also drop under load, particularly if running a 12 volt amp in addition to the radio.
None the less I have never felt the need for one of those units.
Put a voltmeter on your starting battery and watch what happens when the starter is cranked
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:01 PM   #305
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Well the noise has been found. It is the Progressive dynamics power converter. I have a base noise of S2 or 3 when the power converter is on and it is gone when the power converter is disconnected. The noise is coming in through the antenna...disconnect the antenna and the noise is gone.

Any suggestions???

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Old 10-22-2011, 10:18 PM   #306
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First, when you say that you disconnected the antenna, where is it disconnected, at the radio so it is essentially isolated or did you take off the tarheel antenna and the cable is still attached to the mount?

Is it on all bands at the same level or does it drop off as the frequency gets higher?

My first suspicion is that there is a poor ground at the power converter. My 72 had the power converter ground attached to the frame and when I rebuilt it, I made sure I had a very positive ground.

How far is the converter from the battery? Are the power converter and the battery grounded at different places or does everything come to one point and get grounded there (a much better approach). How heavy is the wire used for grounding and how many bends does it take on it path to the frame.

At only S1 or S2, assuming the noise blanker is off, it may be possible to use a handful of ferrite cores around the AC power and the battery leads to knock it out. Also try a good noise reduction power strip, such as a Triplite may knock it down.

Another thing to try is to ground coax as it exits the camper (try a surge arrestor and clamp it to something that is going to ground), and then go up to the antenna with a separate lead. My coax cables that I use for HF go to the back of the camper and go through barrel connectors located in the storage tray in the back of the camper. My bug catcher antenna is attached to the rear bumper with a 1" wide strap that goes to the frame a few inches away. Where the strap attaches I also have a ground lug that I can attach to a ground rod.

If you are up to it, take the Jetstream supply and use it in place of the power converter and see if the problem goes away (use a different supply for the radio, just don't key up the transmitter). Use the same grounds and leads coming to your converter. If the noise is gone, you will probably do better putting in a different power converter than trying to tame the one you have. The power converters are just inexpensive switchers with a bit of computer control for doing the various charge sequences.

Tom
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:52 PM   #307
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I did a bit of checking on deep cycle and marine batteries as far as their internal resistance. The following is for a new battery, it gets worse as the battery ages and will get worse faster if the battery is abused.

A typical battery with 500 cold cranking amps has about 0.011 ohms of internal resistance. Granted, with a 500W amp that is pulling 100A on peaks, that becomes a pretty significant voltage drop (1.1V).

With a typical 100W radio drawing 20A on peaks will see a maximum of 0.22V drop which could be cut down by using some capacitance between the battery and the radio.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:02 PM   #308
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I contacted Progressive Dynamics and they said the radiation was mostly in the 10 to 13mHz range and suggested a Faraday cage around the unit. Be kind of hard to make one to fit around the unit.

Ken
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