Ham Radio in A/S

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by MrAgent007

Yes! Just leave a very big tip please!

My original post indicated grounded to truck fame... It should be to truck frame...

I was unfortunately taught to skim read. I usually see what my brain expects to be there, so I didn't notice a thing. On top of that, it looks like a truck deserving of fame.


Ken

[MrAgent007]

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

I was unfortunately taught to skim read. I usually see what my brain expects to be there, so I didn't notice a thing. On top of that, it looks like a truck deserving of fame.


Ken

Thank you Sir!

[JimAspinwall]

Alex, very clean. The antenna placement will yield a very directional pattern toward the left rear quarter and potentially a lot of induced RF to the cab and interior gadgets, but such is often life with mobile HF.

I'll have to post the mini-album of my 6-radio install in a similar truck. No interior holes, leveraged a lot of tool box and side-rail real-estate. My Silverado does not have the interior 'well' so I created one otherwise. Anything 150 MHz or below needs a LOT more counter-poise than most imagine.

A VERY VERY important aspect to any and all but especially HF installations is strap-bonding "everything to everything". Even with years of commercial and ham installs from low-band VHF to UHF I had HF challenges of all sorts, then the unique opportunity to meet Don Johnson (sk), author of "HF Mobileering" and obtain his last personal copy (even autographed.)

The wisdom and practice imparted is priceless. A mobile install provides a worst-case counterpoise to an already challenged vertical whip installation. You can't tell on an SWR bridge or ohmmeter - but on-air performance and in-cabin electronics can tell you a lot between un-bonded and fully bonded. From Don's experience and illustrations, my old Trooper, GMC Sierra and now Silverado got an endless treatment of cross-strapping. Truck beds float, most cabs float, the frame is not 'ground', exhaust pipes and bumpers 'float', tailgate, doors and hoods 'float'. Every metal surface needs to find a low-impedance path to and through each other. When I hitch up an additional frame-to-frame braided strap is added between truck and trailer - can't count on the greased-ball and lighting connection to help with the RF.

I may be a bit fanatical but an hour with a roll of braid strap and screws is nothing - considering. I have at least two straps on the lid of the tool box (where three NMO mounts live) and four from the box to the bed and one leads to the frame on each side. The hood and front fenders are also double-bonded as I have inside-fender NMOs up front as well. All of the antennas are fed with RG-223 double-shielded, Cramolin-treated silver connectors. The HF feedline and the motor control line for the TarHeel are ferrite-bead-treated at the antenna. (and I've not even punched a single hole for antennas in the roof, yet.)

In addition to the FT-857 I have an FT-8900, APRS-brapping rig, camping-requisite CB, scanner and high power VHF public safety TK-790. Never a quiet radio moment in my truck! DC power and filtering is a separate critical item - and though I transmit on only one radio at a time I am overdue to replace my #8 main feed with #6. Before juice hits the radios it goes through a big-a** iron core choke and meets a 100,000 ufd cap. What alternator whine?

I really need to find out if it would be possible to reproduce Don's work in PDF/electronic format since it is no longer available, and augment it with some additional pictures and tips about DC power. I think a lot of people just coming into mobile operations could benefit - 100 watts and the amazing high-voltage at the coil and end of whip are something to take seriously and better enjoy that 5-9 contact with Europe!

Thanks for sharing... (now I have to go back and clean up my wiring!)

[JimAspinwall]

2009 Silverado 2500HD de NO1PC

Objective
---------
'stealth' or at least NO visible holes in cab (not like you can be stealth with 7 antennas!)
- this also meant no sticky stuff
- cupholders and controls must be accessible

Six radios - seven antennas
---------------------------
FT-857 - TarHeel H100 and VHF/UHF dual-band left side of tool box
FT-8900 - Comet UHV-4 (the Diamond CR-8900A didn't work well)
TM-261A - 5/8 front left - APRS
TK-790 - wide VHF antenna right-side tool box (modified CalFire load)
Scanner - A/S scanner antenna front right
CB - base-loaded Larsen center on tool box

Comments
----------
1. With no place to drill holes I created one. The mounting plate for the 857 and 8900 heads is a 12" KitchenAid cutting board. It doesn't mar anything, drills and taps very nicely, and as-is I can tuck it into the center console box too.

2. Installation started with the baby TarHeel and the typical clamp-on SO-239 mounting hardware but the mount is too loosey-goosey and the smaller HF antennas (like the ATAS-120) are simply not that effective - so the larger TarHeel came into play, and is mounted on the toolbox. It is somewhat exposed to loads in the bed, but I don't haul rock or lumber regularly.

3. The TK-790 head started out under the dash but is unusable there, so it now sits in the console tray reachable by moving the 857-8900 control 'plate'

4. Lacking a decent stash place for the remoted radios I created one out of an old Navy steel mini-locker that is set under the left passenger seat. After a LOT of tough 1" hole punch wrenching it is now ventilated, houses the 857, 790 and 8900 as well as a speaker power amp, along with a master power relay/distribution for the box itself and an external 'go box' for the APRS radio. If I find a slightly larger box I will re-do this to hold all of the radios and clean up the DC distribution to use a PowerPole dist. panel.

DC Power
---------
Main radios: Currently at "Phase One" with 8 ga + and - direct from the vehicle distribution box under the hood - feeding first a large iron core filter choke and 100,000 ufd capacitor - NO alternator whine here! I may eventually re-work this to create a power scheme in the tool box with second battery, isolator, etc. fed with #6.

Console: an additional run of #10 goes into the console, a choke and cap for the scanner, CB and accessories. I installed a USB Buddy to provide a lot of 5v for all the gadgets and then split that out in a 4 port USB hub modified for charge power-only.

Note: BOTH + and - are distributed from the vehicle power system under the hood. At no time relying on chassis to pickup -/ground - that only invites ground loops for RF and electrical system noises.

General Frame/'Ground' Practice
------------------------------
The ONLY place (-) is valid on a GM is where they tie the battery to the 'frame' near the power distribution box. Picking up (-) directly off the battery is incorrect - you end up in the charge 'loop' and take alternator whine, etc. to the radios.

(Different for Ford, but different charge loop there.) (I've verified this with GM and Ford practices and years of mobile history from CHP and other mass fleet installers.)

NEVER trust/expect reliable noise-free (-) off ANY panel, body, frame or box surface. One veteran installer I know tested 'ground' and high current draw at the back of his Tahoe - at 30A he started to heat up the chassis sheet metal from rear to the battery (-) tie point!!! That means there is a high-resistance in sheet metal and steel! Always run a (-) lead to the loads.

RFI protection for HF
--------------------
The typical 50+ watt low-VHF down to HF antenna schemes can create high-RF-voltage fields at the coils and tips of the whips (thus the corona ball!) This can and will radiate back into native vehicle electronics, nav systems, other radios and accessories and either knock them out of service or give you that nasty squaking audio when you transmit.

There simply is not enough counterpoise surface for anything below 50 MHz to balance out - the RF goes someplace - coax, door panels, tailgates, etc. none of which are really "at ground".

Think of that vertical in your backyard - it needs a lot of radials to be effective. We obviously can't run 32 wires from the base of our mobile HF whips, but we can do the next best thing.

The cure is simple - bond every metal surface to every other metal surface with at least 1/2" preferably 1" braided strap. Hoods, fenders, frame, doors, tailgate, tool boxes, exhaust pipes (and for some even fuel lines and fuel pumps). Scrape paint, use star lockwashers, whatever it takes to get a good solid connection.

This will reduce the impedance of your vehicle so it can act as a better RF counterpoise - dramatically reducing RFI and improving radiation pattern/effectiveness. (thanks to Don Johnson [sk] and his "HF Mobileering" book that really simplifies how all this works!)

See you on the air!

[VE1NPS]

Rally going to be near an IRLP repeater?
VE1NPS. Nigel

[JimAspinwall]

Two friends of mine create their own EchoLink nodes with an old laptop and spare radio - bring their node on trips - connect as desired via WiFi or cell data - instant presence.

But this does bring up ideas of creating a portable repeater - easier on UHF, do-able on VHF - IF there are enough hams and time to warrant. Just don't "slap it together". Good antennas and feedline adequately separated feeding good radios. Used Bendix-King portables have good RF qualities and can be hooked together fairly easily.

[JimAspinwall]

Goal:
"old world ball mount" atop/mid trailer roof, take advantage of the huge counterpoise!

Consideration:
- NOT mounted on/through aluminum skin, but a mounting panel/rails elevated about 3" above the skin, supported by 'u' channel brackets secured to roof frame rails
- elevated would provide clearance for SGC-230 tuner and short direct connection to ball

Use case(s):
- 10-12 foot whip on quick-disconnect for ad-hoc vertical (yes, with a tuner)
- alternately use connection point for wire antenna
- NOT intended for mobile use (well, perhaps NVIS with whip tilted over and terminated with 0.001ufd doorknob cap at tip to chassis)
- I don't operate in the trailer - instead "field day" ez-up or under canopy so the SGC-tuner cable draped over the side to rig and power is fine.

I've been waiting for time to work out the dimensions and roof frame rail positions to secure the "elevation brackets"

The 'trick' is - where are the frame rails under the skin? I see front-back rivet lines about 3-4 feet apart. I'm guessing that popping the cover off the A/C unit would reveal mounting dimensions - to establish a 'line' then be extended back or front to locate the rails at another point along the roof.

Of course I suppose Airstream has a structural document...

Ideas?

[68 TWind]

I tried a "ham stick" tuned to the exact freq. for a statewide net that I check in on daily and clamped it to the awning bracket. Did not work well, so I added a counter poise wire that improved things when I draped it over the trailer. I fiddled around with various mounting points and various counter poise layouts with little success. Since I usually don't operate from inside (at least when the wife is camping) I gave up and went back to my homebrew OCF wire antenna that I hang in whatever tree is close by. I also carry a Par Endfed 40/20 that is quick to set up and works well even when I can't get it high in a tree. Of course if the bands are in good shape, about anything will work and when they aren't I just get out my mandolin or fiddle!!!!

[mrcolin2u]

KM6QB in SoCal

[VE1NPS]

Past President and ex member 19625,(starting to look again) Canadian Atlantic Unit. Into APRS,IRLP, Echolink not as successsful for me as IRLP Radios Kenwood D700 and D7 as well as Yaesu 2600
73
VE1NPS\VE1NP Nigel Service

[cwf]

Where would someone start if 'interested' in being a HAM ? I have tried several sites but get lost in the details...

A PM will be fine if you prefer.. Peace..

[Nuvite-F]

Hi,

Probably the easiest thing to do would be get in touch with a local amateur radio club--there are lots of them! Most clubs offer license classes and examinations, as well as a congenial group to help you get started.

The national amateur radio organization is the ARRL (American Radio Relay League). Their web site lists ARRL affiliated clubs. One in Round Rock is the Lone Star Amateur Radio Association

ARRL Clubs - LONE STAR AMATEUR RADIO ASSOCIATION

Welcome to amateur radio. You will find hams are friendly!
.

[RVDreamer]

Originally Posted by cwf

Where would someone start if 'interested' in being a HAM ? I have tried several sites but get lost in the details...

A PM will be fine if you prefer.. Peace..

Do a google search on Ham Nation. This will give you a link to the Ham Nation website. They do a weekly video podcast all about Ham Radio. How to get started, etc. The previously broadcast podcasts are all available for free download.

Also if you go to eHam.net Home - Amateur Radio (Ham Radio) Community Site, you can get take sample ham exams and get info on training materials.

[aa6rv]

If you're on the road and have Internet Access thru either Wifi Card or where ever you are staying the easiest way is to self study with reading the Technician Level Amateur Radio Study Guide. But, I wouldn't just let you hang out to dry like that. I love Youtube... David Casler, KE0OG made a slew of videos to help you study for the Technician Level Exam.

You can listen to many individuals, but it's really easy. There are three levels of Ham Radio Operators. The entry level is Technician. You need to successfully pass a 35 question exam administrated by Licensed Volunteers. That part requires you find a club that will administer the exam. The studying is on you. Don't worry....all the questions (Approximately 500 question pool are available for viewing). There is a ton of Apps available with all them...and for the Tech exam....it's Free.

So go to David's site and just jump right on in and start studying.



Technician Class Ham License – On-Line Help for Your Self Study | My Southwestern Colorado: Off-Road, Touring, Ham Radio, and More!

David, aa6rv

[Phodeaux]

I was last in ham radio in the 50's and early 60's. I decided to get back into it so investigated and discovered I didn't need to relearn code! I decided to see how much I forgot over the last 50 years and took a Technician test on line and passed it! I passed several more and tried and failed the General. I read through the General study guide and passed the test too.

I bought a Yaesu FT-60R and am trying to figure out how to hook up an antenna on my 25FB. First question: How do yo get the coax from inside to out? I don't fancy drilling holes through the shell...

73's Gary
KK6QWP

[rmkrum]

On ours we have a Yaesu FT857 with a control head remoted to the back desk. The main unit is mounted in a 14x14 Leviton modular wiring box screwed to the aft closet wall inside the closet. Power distribution inside the box with a West Mountain panel. Connections to the main unit are HF and VHF. They are capable of being jumpered to two feed-thrus that go from the closet interior into the fridge compartment by the upper door.

The permanent VHF antenna is fed through a spare packing grommet on our solar junction box on the roof that covers another hole into the closet from the roof. Antenna bracketed to a solar panel mounting foot.

For HF we open the fridge exterior door and hook the portable antenna up. One hole, but two antennas.

This works for our 22 foot international CCD

Hardest thing was fishing remote wiring under everything on the street side to the cabinet under the right side of the desk.


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[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by Phodeaux

I was last in ham radio in the 50's and early 60's. I decided to get back into it so investigated and discovered I didn't need to relearn code! I decided to see how much I forgot over the last 50 years and took a Technician test on line and passed it! I passed several more and tried and failed the General. I read through the General study guide and passed the test too.

I bought a Yaesu FT-60R and am trying to figure out how to hook up an antenna on my 25FB. First question: How do yo get the coax from inside to out? I don't fancy drilling holes through the shell...

73's Gary
KK6QWP

I have never gotten into ham radio - apart from illegal home made broadcast band transmitter built when in my early teens - and that was a long long time ago!

I often thought it would be an interesting hobby but just never did get into it. I thought that perhaps when I retired I might have a go at to.

But now I have been retired for 16 years and still have not!

One thing I often wondered was whether or not the internet availability would adversely impact the hobby - I mean with the availability of communication tools such as Skype.

Has this happened, or is the hobby as active as ever?

Brian.

[blucloud]

Welcome back to Amateur Radio. I was off the air for 14 years but still managed to keep my call sign. Having much fun now since retiring.

73 OM will look for you down the log.

Dave WV8P

[JimAspinwall]

Gary,

You're probably 8-10 miles down 85 from me, if you'd like we can arrange a time and you can visit our 30ft 2004 Classic upon which I've mounted both a CB and dual-band antenna on either side of the broadcast 'duckie' top front. Cable run was relatively easy fishing/pushing the feed-line through the 3/4" NMO mount holes to the back of the front cabinet where the stereo is mounted. Under the stereo box is mounted the CB and UHF/VHF rig. Eventually I may install an EchoLink node on laptop so I can have my own local 'bubble' to connect back to friendly systems via WiFi connection.

I've also placed an elevated ball+spring mount on the roof behind the A/C unit to allow me to interchangeably try screwdriver, or random wire or whips with SGC tuner leveraging the significant counterpoise and ground effect coupling of the trailer. I have not run feedline to the interior, yet, as most of my operating time at camp is minimal and "field day like" under the awning, and I have to get atop the trailer to set the antenna of the day anyway.

However, as with another response, I do have the ability to run feed in above the fridge cabinet, where I also ran in the solar panel wires, but there are space/orientation challenges it would be good to know about in advance.

How do yo get the coax from inside to out? I don't fancy drilling holes through the shell...

73's Gary
KK6QWP

[rmkrum]

It's every bit as active as long ago, IMHO.

I dabble in emergency communications, and the ARRL put out some posters and stuff with 'when all else fails, amateur radio' as a theme.

I've found it to be very true. Got my license at a late age in Alabama. We had sufficient bad weather to really need to sprout antennas in emergencies. I still do...

AS is equipped with solar power


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