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Old 05-28-2017, 05:51 AM   #1
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Basecamp - Where to get 12V for ham radio?

Hi everyone. KD2FIQ here. New Basecamp owner. I'd like to very simply add an Anderson Power Pole connector to my Basecamp's 12V system. I do not have a lot of familiarity with RV electrical systems (although very familiar with automotive 12V systems). It appears I can add a circuit​ to the WFCO distribution panel using an available terminal but I wanted to check with the experts. I have included some pictures of the panel. Rig would be a Yaesu FT-991 or Icom IC-7100. I am wondering if I should leave the panel alone and just come off the battery direct with correct fuse protection. I am not sure if the WFCO unit is designed for sudden demands of keying up the radio with 100 watts. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-28-2017, 06:32 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKenmore View Post
Hi everyone. KD2FIQ here. New Basecamp owner. I'd like to very simply add an Anderson Power Pole connector to my Basecamp's 12V system. I do not have a lot of familiarity with RV electrical systems (although very familiar with automotive 12V systems). It appears I can add a circuit​ to the WFCO distribution panel using an available terminal but I wanted to check with the experts. I have included some pictures of the panel. Rig would be a Yaesu FT-991 or Icom IC-7100. I am wondering if I should leave the panel alone and just come off the battery direct with correct fuse protection. I am not sure if the WFCO unit is designed for sudden demands of keying up the radio with 100 watts. Attachment 286348Attachment 286349Attachment 286350
That's a really easy answer.
Simply get an appropriate rated fuse, install it in an empty slot, and connect the 12v power lead from the radio to the screw-on lug in the fuse box. You can ground to nearly anywhere metal in the trailer.
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Old 05-28-2017, 07:04 AM   #3
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I'd check the documentation that comes with the transceiver. If they recommend an isolated line, then run one. My VHF radios did introduce noise into the boat when connected to the bus.
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Old 05-28-2017, 07:51 AM   #4
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The lower two fuse locations state they are intended for 30 amp slide out motors. Would this be a more appropriate spot? The rated fuse in the 12V DC is 25 amps on the FT-991 and 30 amp on the IC-7100. I downloaded all the documentation from the manufacturer but it is really not very informative!!! The other circuits state the max rating is 20 amp.

Drathaar-there is no stereo system or TV on the Basecamp so I would likely not interfere with anything. Your point is interesting about utilizing an isolated / dedicated feed. When I rented a 25 foot RV some time ago, I would start the inverter fan when I keyed up my HT! This one does not do that thankfully.
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Old 05-28-2017, 07:58 AM   #5
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What happened on the boat was watching the tachometer go crazy any time I keyed the VHF.
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Old 05-28-2017, 09:37 AM   #6
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Take a look at your tow vehicle, 30 amps is pushing it with the stab-on connections shown, 40 amps is even worse. Automotive fuses designed to handle those currents will be the larger size fuses with larger stab-on connectors. More metal, more tension, equals less heat. And heat will cause intermittent connections and higher voltage drop as the spring tension weakens. If it were me I'd go direct to the battery and fuse both positive and negative leads with larger inline fuse holders designed to handle at least 50 amps, fused appropriately less as per the radio's recommended fusing. Remember, the battery is an extremely low impedance to noise, and that's a very good thing for HF radio.
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Old 05-28-2017, 11:04 AM   #7
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How does the electric function when on shore power? I gather per the manufacturer's paperwork -

"Absorption Mode: During this mode, the converter output is in the 13.6 Vdc range. This is the normal operation mode. This mode provides the 12 Vdc and current required by the 12 Vdc RV appliances, as well as slow charging the battery."

Based one this, I gather the 12V DC would be via the rectifier and the battery would not be the primary source.

rskunath-I hear ya. I started to use MIDI fuses for 30 amps and up in my automotive applications which are very nice. I think 30 amp drawing would be an unlikely scenario. I have 25 amp fuses in my 12 gauge power leads now on positive and negative (from Yaesu). Never blew a fuse yet. Anything is possible of course.
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:19 PM   #8
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When I added a Kenwood 144/440 transceiver (plus a Cobra CB), its power went directly to the battery with each lead separately fused. I've had no problems with it at all.

Richard Wills, WL7Z
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:52 PM   #9
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Same Rules are going to Apply

Just like in a car, you have to make a home run to the battery, you are going to have to do the same thing for your radio. My suggestion is why not add a second battery? I think that's what I would do for the ham gear and a movable portable solar panels. I never understood attaching it to the camper because you want the camper in the shade....you want the panels in the sun. Other than when you are driving, you want to be in the shade, right? So, purchase a Bioenno Lithium Iron Phospate Battery, which is way better the AGM batteries. That way, you don't have to mess around with the internal wiring and you can move around. I like options.....run the battery to a rig runner, wire everything to Power Poles and you got power!
The only way, I would have done things differently is if I could of purchased the unit with all these modifications as the unit was being built at the factory.

That's why, I plan on having to units......one full size Airstream.....and my small rig will be a tear drop designed for Off Road.

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Old 05-28-2017, 12:55 PM   #10
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[QUOTE=MrKenmore;1955447] How noisy, RF wise is that converter on HF?
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Old 05-28-2017, 01:27 PM   #11
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Not sure the converter noise on HF. I haven't tried it yet. I did do some decent investigative work. I opened up the battery compartment and the primary electrical distribution point. Much more favorable than dealing with the converter. There is a negative ground bus that I tapped into as well as the positive ground bus. You can see in the pictures. Incoming battery is on the right side into a 50 amp circuit breaker. I picked up that empty stud on the right side with a fuse holder and a short length of wire to an Anderson Power Pole. I really want to see how I use things and will do a permanent install following.

AA6RV - Those are great tips! I will be in beach areas quite a bit so I won't have the option for shade.

Thanks for all the fast feedback everyone. It was very helpful!

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Old 05-28-2017, 03:26 PM   #12
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Well, like most hams, everyone has an opinion :-)

I'm in the camp of making a run directly to the batteries with some #10 stranded and a couple of in-line fuses (or at least one). RF is a different animal. Introducing RF to the rest of your electrical system is asking for problems. And grounding to metal paneling, to me, is asking for real issues!

Have fun and enjoy some remote contacts!

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-Marc / KF6VNT
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Old 05-28-2017, 04:42 PM   #13
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Basecamp - Where to get 12V for ham radio?

KE4GNK here. Our setup is run straight to the battery buss bar terminals under the front bed. #10 wire with both leads fused at 30 amps. Power pole connector to a distribution panel with more power poles and voltage monitoring circuitry. Runs a Yaesu FT-957 HF/VHF rig mounted in the closet next to the bed. Head is run to our desk in the rear.

I'm in favor of using automotive practice in the AS. Dedicated circuit does not depend on Airstream's wiring practices, or lack of QA oversight.
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:40 PM   #14
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On my rig I come directly from the battery to the rig (Icom706) using fused leads (both positive and negative). This assures a clean voltage to the rig.
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:56 PM   #15
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I run # 10 wire direct to my battery: main rig ft 897,sat rig ic 810. No problems with power or interferance.
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Old 05-29-2017, 05:34 AM   #16
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I installed PP on my battery rather than inside my "central control panel" ( 68's version of DC fuse block). I have a 25 ft power chord fused on both positive and negative and with Anderson PP's on each end. Since I like to sit at the picnic table this give me enough length to reach in most campgrounds. My camping radio is an Elecraft K2 with the KPA 100 amp. I do notice some noise sometimes when I first hook up to shore power and the inverter is putting out full charge current. After the battery tops off, I don't notice any noise.
Radio is one of my favorite parts of Airstreaming.

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Old 05-29-2017, 06:29 AM   #17
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i use the extra 12v breaker slot in my sport 22FB
best to go this way as direct from battery is a long wire pull

i upgraded the wiring from shore power with #10 wire also. as uses #12 inside
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:37 AM   #18
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I came up with another idea. As I anticipate most of my operating will be from a table outside with an antenna setup that day (in the trees or tripod), all I really need is a convenient 12V power source. The 7 pin trailer hook up will work nicely. It has a 10 gauge wire for 12V positive from the 7 pin connector to a 30 amp breaker to the 12V positive bus bar. I can get a 7 pin (vehicle side) and install PP connectors on the 12V positive and negative and safe off the rest.
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:00 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by MrKenmore View Post
I came up with another idea. As I anticipate most of my operating will be from a table outside with an antenna setup that day (in the trees or tripod), all I really need is a convenient 12V power source. The 7 pin trailer hook up will work nicely. It has a 10 gauge wire for 12V positive from the 7 pin connector to a 30 amp breaker to the 12V positive bus bar. I can get a 7 pin (vehicle side) and install PP connectors on the 12V positive and negative and safe off the rest.
Hi

Now *that* is a cool idea !!

Have you considered a 7 pin to 7 pin adapter to be able to run from the TV as well?

Bob
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:51 AM   #20
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Curt 57184 can be had for a little under $16.

I thought about using the TV 7 pin. I would like to see a wiring diagram showing the 12V positive wire size and how its fused. It would be super easy if the wire size checks out. I would hope its 10 gauge.
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