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Old 03-25-2009, 07:11 PM   #1
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1974 27' Overlander
Grants Pass , Oregon
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220VAC Service

I am still working on my Airstream shack. I have a Henry 3KD that I plan on using when the AS is at the home port. The Henry draws 35 or so amps on 110v. Has anybody run a dedicated 220 or 110 service to the airstream.. That would be a dedicated cable from my home fuse box to a service box where we park the trailer in the yard. Is this something I should hire an electrician to do or is it relatively simple? Waiting for a week of fair weather here in southern Oregon. Have everything in the AS but nothing mounted or wired yet. So far the only RF coming out of the shack is 2mtrs from the ts2000 to a 2/70cm antenna mounted on a 15 foot mast hose clamped to the hitch.

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Lee
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Old 03-25-2009, 07:31 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by pixiehat View Post
I am still working on my Airstream shack. I have a Henry 3KD that I plan on using when the AS is at the home port. The Henry draws 35 or so amps on 110v. Has anybody run a dedicated 220 or 110 service to the airstream.. That would be a dedicated cable from my home fuse box to a service box where we park the trailer in the yard. Is this something I should hire an electrician to do or is it relatively simple? Waiting for a week of fair weather here in southern Oregon. Have everything in the AS but nothing mounted or wired yet. So far the only RF coming out of the shack is 2mtrs from the ts2000 to a 2/70cm antenna mounted on a 15 foot mast hose clamped to the hitch.

73
Lee
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I take that is Ham radio gear?

I have a dedicated RV plug for my AS at home, in fact I have 3

If you have done household type wiring before it isn't too difficult, but I would not suggest it for a first time project. Airstreams (at least the vintage I play with) come from the factory with 120v 30amp standard. The new standard is 50amp but IIRC that is still at 120v.

Aaron
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Old 03-25-2009, 07:46 PM   #3
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You may want to consider products like the Marinco line of 125/250VAC power inlets for your Airstream shack. You can see their power inlets, outlets, and related products at:
50 Amp Shore Power Products | Marinco These are generally available through West Marine and other sources. Not cheap but highly reliable.

You are probably aware of this, but be sure to pay special attention to both the AC grounding and RF ground bonding of your trailer.

A 3KD driven with about 60 watts CW can deliver 1500 to 2000 watts CW from 160m through 10m, and if you have an antenna mounted on or near the trailer, you may find that the trailer's aluminum components are not well RF bonded. Could be quite a shock, to say the least.

Perhaps some of the other hams on the forum can offer good suggestions...
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Old 03-25-2009, 07:50 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
. . . The new standard is 50amp but IIRC that is still at 120v.

Aaron
It's 50a at 240v, so it totals 100a split phase.
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Old 03-25-2009, 09:49 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by mswartz View Post
You may want to consider products like the Marinco line of 125/250VAC power inlets for your Airstream shack. You can see their power inlets, outlets, and related products at:
50 Amp Shore Power Products | Marinco These are generally available through West Marine and other sources. Not cheap but highly reliable.

You are probably aware of this, but be sure to pay special attention to both the AC grounding and RF ground bonding of your trailer.

A 3KD driven with about 60 watts CW can deliver 1500 to 2000 watts CW from 160m through 10m, and if you have an antenna mounted on or near the trailer, you may find that the trailer's aluminum components are not well RF bonded. Could be quite a shock, to say the least.

Perhaps some of the other hams on the forum can offer good suggestions...

Could have sworn I replied to a PM about6 this.. Anyhow, thanks for the Westmarine info.. I'll check that out for sure. As to the RF grounds.. I think I may have it covered. I have already planted ground rods, fore and aft. Bonded the skin to the frame in ten places with braid, bonded the hatch covers to the skin and of course run a ground strip for the gear. Never did much small boating but my experience aboard ships is "ground, ground, ground, and more grounds.."

thanks again marshal.. Will be checking out the West Marine site shortly.. I thinnk west marine in Oakland is next door to HRO.. Both too far for me in s.Oregon..

73
Lee
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:06 AM   #6
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No, No, No

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Originally Posted by markdoane View Post
It's 50a at 240v, so it totals 100a split phase.

Each leg is only 25 amps at 110/120 volts each - 50 amps TOTAL - NOT 100 amps.

The gauge of wire supplied with the standard 50 amp RV plug would not support anything near 50 amps in each wire.

On a "standard" RV campground plug the voltage across the "legs" COULD BE 220 volts, but it does not necessarily HAVE to be.

Pixiehat - If you are installing a new service for your ham gear, be sure to consult an ampacity/length/wire gauge table to select a gauge of wire that will not drop your voltage more than 2% from the service panel to the interior plug in the AS. Be sure to include possible losses in the umbilical line of the trailer - some trailers may have a 10 gauge cord.

Expensive electrical gear does not like low voltages.

Are you sure about that 30 amp draw on the Henry at 120 volts? That one unit alone would max out your standard RV electrical hookup.

On actually running the line - don't underestimate the total possible voltage/line losses. Even some "professional" electricians will run an undersize line for too long a distance. Electrical service is one area where an amateur radio operator does NOT want limited if he can help it.

Do some research and make yourself comfortable with the length of your electrical requirements, and then size the wire properly. Remember, it's not just the "point to point" measurement you are considering, the gees, haws, ups, and downs add to the length of a run in a hurry - don't forget the "choke" at your umbilical line.

Do not be surprised if you will require #8 or even #6 gauge stranded wire for your run.
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:47 AM   #7
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Each leg is only 25 amps at 110/120 volts each - 50 amps TOTAL - NOT 100 amps.

The gauge of wire supplied with the standard 50 amp RV plug would not support anything near 50 amps in each wire.
You'd better do some research of your own. A standard 50 amp RV cable has #6 AWG conductors. If you haven't seen one, they are over an inch in diameter.

Each leg is 50 amps at 120v, total is 100 amps.
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87MH View Post
Each leg is only 25 amps at 110/120 volts each - 50 amps TOTAL - NOT 100 amps.

The gauge of wire supplied with the standard 50 amp RV plug would not support anything near 50 amps in each wire.

On a "standard" RV campground plug the voltage across the "legs" COULD BE 220 volts, but it does not necessarily HAVE to be.

Pixiehat - If you are installing a new service for your ham gear, be sure to consult an ampacity/length/wire gauge table to select a gauge of wire that will not drop your voltage more than 2% from the service panel to the interior plug in the AS. Be sure to include possible losses in the umbilical line of the trailer - some trailers may have a 10 gauge cord.

Expensive electrical gear does not like low voltages.

Are you sure about that 30 amp draw on the Henry at 120 volts? That one unit alone would max out your standard RV electrical hookup.

On actually running the line - don't underestimate the total possible voltage/line losses. Even some "professional" electricians will run an undersize line for too long a distance. Electrical service is one area where an amateur radio operator does NOT want limited if he can help it.

Do some research and make yourself comfortable with the length of your electrical requirements, and then size the wire properly. Remember, it's not just the "point to point" measurement you are considering, the gees, haws, ups, and downs add to the length of a run in a hurry - don't forget the "choke" at your umbilical line.

Do not be surprised if you will require #8 or even #6 gauge stranded wire for your run.

Pretty much decided on 6gua for the 220 line from the house panel to the trailer. Will run a dedicated 110 v also from the house to the trailer for the othere ham gear. a 3rd line is already there and it remains 30 amps. That one is for the trailer stuff. I also plan on eventually adding a 2nd battery which might help the ham radio plahying while camping. It's great to get all this good info on the forum.

I'll hbve to run out to the shack (AS) to double check on the henry's draw at 110 and at 220.. I don't really remember all that clearly.. I guess it's been too many Gin/Tonics..

73
Lee
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Old 03-26-2009, 08:06 PM   #9
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You may want to get a professional to do the "home side" to make sure you meet code, but you should be able to handle the shack side. That is what I did when I had the garage built for the AS. On the MH I converted the 30 amp over to 50 amp with a new breaker box and 50 amp Marinco power cable with one leg powering the rear air conditioner only - before on 30 amp only one AC could be run at a time - the other leg goes to the original supply side. You could do the same with one leg dedicated to the Henry. Then, if you are at home or in a park with 50 amp available you could use the amp otherwise, the rest of the trailer is still on the original 30 amp service.
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