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Old 04-29-2012, 07:58 PM   #113
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I drilled a hole in the plate for the new switch.

Dave

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Originally Posted by Hibby View Post
Skater, thanks.... Did you remove the circuit board and just leave it hanging? Or did you need to modify the wall plate? The red button will not fit throught the hole where the old power button is; the plate that holds the circuit board blocks it. I'm probably making this too complicated.
Thanks!
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:54 AM   #114
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Originally Posted by Hibby View Post
Skater, thanks.... Did you remove the circuit board and just leave it hanging? Or did you need to modify the wall plate? The red button will not fit throught the hole where the old power button is; the plate that holds the circuit board blocks it. I'm probably making this too complicated.
Thanks!
No, you still want the circuit board, because it does a couple things, including powering the 12 volt connector that's there.

I'll try to get a picture when I get back to working on mine (I need to clean up some things, like mounting the switch), but:

1. Disconnect the 12 volt connector between the two cables. (I did this in the wrong order and blew the fuse...sigh.)
2. Disconnect the antenna cable (right side in your picture - it looks like it's marked on yours...very convenient!).
3. Connect one of the spade connectors to the board where you removed the power in step 1.
4. Attach the coax retrofit piece to the board, then the antenna wire to it.
5. Attach the other space connector on the retrofit to the wire you removed in step 1.

That should do it, basically. I had to angle the coax connection a certain way to get it back in the hole in the skin of the camper, but your skin's hole might be larger and this might not be an issue for you. As masseyfarm said you'll also want to drill a new hole for the switch in the plate - because of the small size of my interior skin hole, I'm not sure if this will be enough for me.

One gripe - the retrofit push-button switch is not obvious whether it's on or off. And it's not immediately apparent what's happening since the Sky takes a minute to boot.
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Old 04-30-2012, 12:26 PM   #115
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Hibby,

As far as the button goes, keep in mind that you can pull the red button off and then drill a small hole in the plastic wall plate. The attached image shows the nut, lock washer, and cover washer that come off after you take the red button off. Once you have a hole in the wall plate, you can put the switch in from the back of the wall plate and then tighten it up using the washers and nut. Skater gave great directions on putting the Retrofit kit in. Follow those and you'll be able to power the Sky and amplify the Batwing simultaneously, which should take care of the low TV signal issue.


Dave,

I know that we include 1.5A mini fuses with the Retrofit, but perhaps a 3A mini fuse is called for in some cases. Getting a 3A one may prove to work for both the Sky and Batwing simultaneously.


Skater,

I'll see what we can do for the Retrofit2 kit that we're working on to get an indication of power on there. Do you think a switch that simply stays depressed when ON would be acceptable?
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:06 PM   #116
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Skater,

I'll see what we can do for the Retrofit2 kit that we're working on to get an indication of power on there. Do you think a switch that simply stays depressed when ON would be acceptable?
Or one that lights up when on. That is easier to remember and more noticeable. In our trailer the TV covers most of that area and reaching the wall plate for the antenna is a stretch, so making it more visible is a help.

I am assuming I will need to install the retrofit kit and hope to get to it soon so I can test it when we take the trailer out in 3 weeks.

Gene
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:45 PM   #117
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Yes! You guys are amazing! I'd send you all flowers if I could. Based on my testing it seems as though everything is working perfectly.

Originally, I misunderstood the fact that both buttons would still exist on the wall plate.

It is my understanding that the Wi-Fi sky and the Batwing will both have power if I depress the original amplifier switch. However, if I don't need digital television signal, I will need to press the red switch to power the Wi-Fi sky only. Is this correct?
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:08 AM   #118
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I know that we include 1.5A mini fuses with the Retrofit, but perhaps a 3A mini fuse is called for in some cases. Getting a 3A one may prove to work for both the Sky and Batwing simultaneously.
Mine was a 2 amp fuse. I know this because I blew it. (I found another one at Radio Shack.)

Quote:
I'll see what we can do for the Retrofit2 kit that we're working on to get an indication of power on there. Do you think a switch that simply stays depressed when ON would be acceptable?
Yes, that would work. The problem with a lighted switch - which would be nice - is that it's another wire floating around. This isn't a huge problem, so I wouldn't spend a bunch of money fixing it. It's really only an issue when you're first installing it and not sure whether the Sky is working or not.

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Originally Posted by Hibby View Post
It is my understanding that the Wi-Fi sky and the Batwing will both have power if I depress the original amplifier switch. However, if I don't need digital television signal, I will need to press the red switch to power the Wi-Fi sky only. Is this correct?
I think the button will power both now, and the switch is basically useless now, unless it powers something else on the circuit board.

Note, I asked the mods to separate this discussion into a new thread about the Sky...that's probably better for everyone.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:17 AM   #119
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Note, I asked the mods to separate this discussion into a new thread about the Sky...that's probably better for everyone.
I just got the message about the split and noticed I started the thread. I forgot that.

Thanks to those who are installing this so the rest of us can understand what to do.

Gene
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:24 AM   #120
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Thanks to those who are installing this so the rest of us can understand what to do.
I still intend to write up some other observations I made while doing it, but I did it during a rally we were hosting, and so I haven't had much time. Then last night, instead of doing the chores we SHOULD have done at home, we instead decided to go hang out with some of the friends from the rally that were camping nearby.

Actually I think most of my observations are already covered. I do want to get back in there and clean up some things and mount the switch though. My switch is mounted in a little cubby under the counter where a TV would go if we had one, so it's harder to work on.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:37 AM   #121
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I just got the message about the split and noticed I started the thread. I forgot that.
No wonder I forgot I started it. I didn't. When they split the threads my name was the first on this one. At least I have some memory left about something.

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Old 05-01-2012, 02:21 PM   #122
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Gene, then we've gotta hope that I'm doing as well by the time you're my age. eh?
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:59 AM   #123
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Another good thread. Glad I'll be starting from scatch on this issue (another old trailer).
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:19 PM   #124
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WiFiRanger, Sky

This MASTER thread for the WiFiSky has specific information intended for the ALUMINUM skinned trailers and motorhomes. It is a great unit that was designed and offered for this application. Thanks again to WiFiRanger for the great offer and product.

That said, I found with the Clipper after testing, I had other obstacles that were easier to overcome by moving the location of the SKY unit.

If you have other mounting challenges, my Clipper mounting may be of interest.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...ml#post1143679

Dave
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:28 AM   #125
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This MASTER thread for the WiFiSky has specific information intended for the ALUMINUM skinned trailers and motorhomes. It is a great unit that was designed and offered for this application. Thanks again to WiFiRanger for the great offer and product.
What I found with the B190 (fiberglass top) was that Wifi reception was almost never a problem. In fact I had a Sirius antenna mounted atop the cabinets inside the camper and always had good reception there, too.

Quote:
That said, I found with the Clipper after testing, I had other obstacles that were easier to overcome by moving the location of the SKY unit.
Makes sense. I think one of the ideas behind the mount on the TV antenna is that you can raise the antenna, rotate it, etc. to help with reception if needed.

Quote:
If you have other mounting challenges, my Clipper mounting may be of interest.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...ml#post1143679
Nice job with the mounting of the switch. That looks very sharp.
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Old 05-19-2012, 05:12 PM   #126
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I installed and it doesn't work. Mine has a red button and I can't tell if it is on or off. A toggle switch would have been better or a button that stays in when on or a lighted button. The antenna booster still works and the TV works, so it is likely that I attached the wires correctly.

I didn't check the fuse. I'd have to remove the plate from the wall, not an easy thing.

I'm supposed to get a control panel on my browser. I tried it with the iPad2 and nothing in every possible combination with antenna booster and the red button.

I am very disappointed.

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