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Old 11-16-2015, 03:06 PM   #15
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How did you get the cable into the trailer? What size plate did you use had how did you attach the plate?

The antenna cable routing is the big issue with these units.

If I were to run a cable down the fridge vent, why can't you drill a hole in the wall between the fridge cabinet and the living room wall where the TV is mounted? There is a space between the fridge enclosure and TV wall deep enough to allow a 120v receptacle. Remove the receptacle and fish the antenna wire through.

Kelvin
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:38 PM   #16
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Thank you for this conversation. I camp a lot at Horseneck Beach and the internet is spotty at best so this is something I've been wanting to do.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:44 AM   #17
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We have used a Wilson Sleek for years at home with antenna on window bracket. We live just outside Verizon's service area and this brings the signal in enough for most of my internet requirements--better than our satellite. I can even stream video if I have a little extra data available!
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:23 AM   #18
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Remember you will need a degree of separation between your external and internal antennas.

Another vote here fort eh surecall/wilson(we boost) set up. Works real well for me
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsmblue View Post
Remember you will need a degree of separation between your external and internal antennas.

Another vote here fort eh surecall/wilson(we boost) set up. Works real well for me
If the antenna is on the TV antenna, which is cranked up over the TV/fridge common wall (25fb) and the internal antenna is attached to the TV/fridge common wall will I get the enhanced reception in the front bedroom if the internal antenna is pointed towards the back of the trailer?

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 11-17-2015, 10:11 AM   #20
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Looking at the Weboost website the auto/RV solutions with the small flat internal antenna don't seem to be the best solutions as it only has a 3' range. The instructions from the Drive 4G-X states 36" range.

Is there a replacement indoor antenna that offers more range? If I have to sit in one area of the trailer within 3 foot of the indoor antenna that doesn't seem to be that useful.

Kelvin


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Old 11-17-2015, 11:28 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Looking at the Weboost website the auto/RV solutions with the small flat internal antenna don't seem to be the best solutions as it only has a 3' range. The instructions from the Drive 4G-X states 36" range.

Is there a replacement indoor antenna that offers more range? If I have to sit in one area of the trailer within 3 foot of the indoor antenna that doesn't seem to be that useful.

Kelvin


A call to the folks at 3Gstore will get you a quick answer. They are also a great source for all cell and wifi related devices.

BTW, I have seen significant signal boost at up to 6' from the inside antenna.


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Old 11-17-2015, 11:36 AM   #22
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I do not recommend the Wilson Sleek, now WeBoost. I posted about it here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f451...-x-142742.html

I burned up, and ruined a MiFi, and a post on Instagram revealed me to not be the only full timer to have a problem with the unit. I didn't have a problem with it, until it was consistently always on.

They make units for home and RV that are even more money with internal antennas that cover more area. If it's worth $500 is up to you.
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:42 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
If the antenna is on the TV antenna, which is cranked up over the TV/fridge common wall (25fb) and the internal antenna is attached to the TV/fridge common wall will I get the enhanced reception in the front bedroom if the internal antenna is pointed towards the back of the trailer?

Thanks

Kelvin
Don't know! I have my external antenna at the front of the AC unto and the internal antenna at front above the dinette, which where we need signal for the wifi router and making calls. We don't need signal in the bedroom, although I guess our wifi does provide it for data!
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:52 PM   #24
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Do you owners of the cell boosters register these with your wireless carrier. I've been reading it is an FCC requirement.

The antenna separation seems to be a big top online with these devices. Does the Airstream's metal structure reduce the distance needed between internal and external antennas?

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Old 11-17-2015, 01:19 PM   #25
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KJRitchie

Hope you have not ripped your AS apart running transmission cables all thru it just yet. Before you do so, please check the labeling on the existing AM/FM cable run. If it is imprinted with RG-6 or RG-6U it has been verified to work with all radio frequencies from 0 to 3000 megahertz! (its called sweeping the cable)

In the United States all cell services are limited to five bands of frequencies. With the latest LTE branded stuff this has extended bands to 7. They now range from 608 Mhz. to 2,600 Mhz. RG-6 is certified to operate thru the entire cell service bandwidth.

Think of a band as a freeway. On the freeway it does not make a tinkers damn if you are driving a van, pickup, RV or even an Airstream, it can all go down the road! Same is true for the freeway of radio. It makes no difference if the vehicle is PCS, 1G, 3G, 4G, LTE, EDGE, TDMA, CDMA, ABCDEFG; it is just a different kind of vehicle with different protocols of operation.

With RG-6U, because you normally are not transmitting energy in excess of about 3 watts, there is no issue using it as transmission cable for cell service. Usually, that does not exceed 2.5 watts max. Most are limited to about .02 watts or less. Wilson and the other "boosters" vary the transmission wattage level as a function of how far you are away from the tower.

Also, because you are using transmission line (RG-6U) cable in very short runs, (less than 15 feet), line loss (attenuation) is not a factor. Most transmission cable is 50 ohm or 75 ohm. (resistance per 1000 feet for cable at the frequency of operation) Cable television uses 75 ohm. Wilson has started to use 75 ohm for the line between the antenna outside and the transceiver (booster) inside.

The next issue is connectors on the ends of the cable. There is an alphabet soup of titles for all the connectors. Wilson uses standard "F" type crimp fittings on their RG-6 cable. However they usually provide something called and SMA fitting to adapt into their transceiver (booster) box. (the one with the binky lights) From the transceiver you go to a number of various types of antennas that reside inside your AS, or even outside your AS if you want to become a mini-cell tower.

So, before you tear your vehicle apart running cables see if you can determine the type of cable you have. If it is RG-6 AND there is no other device between the Wilson or similar transceiver the big part of the job is done.

The antenna on the top of the AS must be unscrewed and removed and replaced with a wideband antenna that has been "cut" or tuned to the frequencies of interests. Wilson and others have a number of direct replacement antennas that are loaded (tuned) for many of the bands. (Sprint, AT&T and Verizon even Roberts and US-Cell) The antenna "mount" (the part that is firmly attached to the skin of the AS) stays just where it is. The element (the wire that extends up from the mount) can normally be unscrewed and replaced with the correct element from your cell service. Note: FM is 87 Mhz. to 107.5 Mhz. for the most part. Remember Cell starts at the low 600's, and if you try to use the FM antenna element for the Cell it will look like a dead short to the booster and it simply will not turn on.

Finally, be very sure that the AM/FM antenna wire to the termination point where the old radio lived DO NOT have any other device, splitter or booster in the line or all of this is for nothing. This can be easy to test by using a volt ohm meter or a simple test light.

Unscrew the antenna from the base mount on the top of the trailer. Using a long piece of wire connect it to the stub in the middle of the base and drape it into the trailer where the inside connection to the radio lived. Test the continuity between the center conductor of the inside cable and the center of the roof mount. If there is continuity, (a connection) then there is nothing else in that line. If there is NO continuity then there is something in that line run.

Don't use the outside of the fitting as that will have continuity regardless of what other devices may be between the roof mount and the termination in the equipment cabinet.

If there is NO continuity from center post of antenna and the center wire at the inside fitting, get out your drill and start punching holes. (Hope not).

Hope this diatribe helps.

Best Regards and Happy Trails.
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:48 PM   #26
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The antenna on the top of the AS must be unscrewed and removed and replaced with a wideband antenna that has been "cut" or tuned to the frequencies of interests. Wilson and others have a number of direct replacement antennas that are loaded (tuned) for many of the bands. (Sprint, AT&T and Verizon even Roberts and US-Cell) The antenna "mount" (the part that is firmly attached to the skin of the AS) stays just where it is. The element (the wire that extends up from the mount) can normally be unscrewed and replaced with the correct element from your cell service. Note: FM is 87 Mhz. to 107.5 Mhz. for the most part. Remember Cell starts at the low 600's, and if you try to use the FM antenna element for the Cell it will look like a dead short to the booster and it simply will not turn on.

Finally, be very sure that the AM/FM antenna wire to the termination point where the old radio lived DO NOT have any other device, splitter or booster in the line or all of this is for nothing. This can be easy to test by using a volt ohm meter or a simple test light.


Hope this diatribe helps.

Best Regards and Happy Trails.
I doubt the cable from the AM/FM antenna is split since it has the push in male connecter that plugged into the radio's antenna socket. I'll have to check if I can see if its mark RG-6 or RG-6U.

So if I understand what you are saying, the flexible antenna Airstream uses for the AM/FM radio can be unscrewed from the base that is permanently attached to the roof and then you can screw in the appropriate antenna for cell signal boosting? Is it a similar flexible antenna?

What do you mean by "element"? is this a part that screws inline between the cable and the antenna?

Can you post links to these products? I can't seem to find these items on WeBoost and SureCall sites.

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:51 PM   #27
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Even if the wire is RG-6/u you'll need to cut and crimp on new connectors. Not sure you want to go buy cable crimpers just for that. It won't be plug in play. But in theory could work. I'd be surprised if that wire is RG-6 though.

RG-62/U is usually used for automotive radio applications.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:05 PM   #28
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KJRitchie,

If you decide to use a dedicated cellular antenna, take a look at this thread. I routed the antenna line down the fridge vent and did not have to take out the fridge. Use a spare piece of 20A cable or similar and keep to the right, fish it up, tape your antenna cable to the end and pull back down. I tried to route the cable directly behind the fridge with no luck but keeping to the right was fairly straight forward (or maybe I was just lucky ).
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