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Old 09-10-2016, 07:58 AM   #29
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This looks like a very interesting set-up. My husband is already experimenting with elevating an external antenna for our JetPak. Thanks for providing so much detail!

If I understand things right, since you are using the outlet behind the refrigerator to power the repeater you either need to be on shore power or use your batteries and inverter. Correct? Any info on power draw? Thanks!
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Old 09-10-2016, 10:48 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by NC Camper View Post
This looks like a very interesting set-up. My husband is already experimenting with elevating an external antenna for our JetPak. Thanks for providing so much detail!

If I understand things right, since you are using the outlet behind the refrigerator to power the repeater you either need to be on shore power or use your batteries and inverter. Correct? Any info on power draw? Thanks!
My camper has a 120v outlet for the refrigerator on the ceiling of the outside compartment. The repeater comes with a small transformer power box that can plug in there. The radio labs repeater runs on 12v. You can either match the adapter on the box or purchase the cigarette lighter type adapter from them and . . . . . there is a 12v block mounted on the floor of my compartment (for the fridge) that you can add a female cigarette adapter or hard wire into the block. The cigarette adapter would have a fuse.

Very low power draw on the repeater and the USB that goes to the mast antenna uses the USB 5v.

Pictures to follow
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Old 09-10-2016, 10:57 AM   #31
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Her are some pictures:

First one is a picture of the ceiling in refrigerator compartment. I have a green splitter so I could plug in the transformer (black). I have to clean that up a bit. I don't want it to pull out of the plug shutting off my fridge.

Second is the plug on the end of the transformer

Third is the block marked "12v DC
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:06 AM   #32
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This is what we use for cellular mobile broadband service in remote areas:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f317...ml#post1387129

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f314...ml#post1546027
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:11 AM   #33
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decisions, decisions....

With either unit, I could mount an antenna to the fridge vent, and go that way; I was planning on mounting something to the batwing antenna mast, which would give it considerably more height. The antenna is on the other side of the roof, though; wouldn't be practical to run the wire down the fridge vent, but I could run it through the hole that the original tv wire came in. (ohm twin lead), which comes in through the center panel of the roof. From there, it could go anywhere, but I was thinking of running it to the cabinet in the front end cap.
On the other hand...my fridge vent cover already has a hole in it. PO had some sort of ham or cb antenna there. Looks like they cut the hole with a spoon ...all dented and not even close to a round hole. It was funny-looking, too, having an antenna sticking out sideways. I took it out, and covered the hole with aluminum tape. That was 14 years ago; its still in place, and has not leaked. so I "could" stick something in that hole, and run the wire down that way.
Old batwing element is mounted to the side of the mast, so another antenna can easily be mounted to the other side. NEW improved antennas can be retrofitted to the batwing mast--they come with brackets for that purpose...but they are flat, and sit on TOP of the mast, which would make it difficult to mount an additional antenna to it. It can be done, though...a friend of mine from the Wally club made a custom bracket to off-set the stick antenna from the batwing mast, so it can co-exist with the flat-top king jack tv antenna. The whole unit then cranks down and lays flat on the roof for travel.
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Old 09-10-2016, 12:24 PM   #34
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decisions, decisions....

With either unit, I could mount an antenna to the fridge vent, and go that way; I was planning on mounting something to the batwing antenna mast, which would give it considerably more height. The antenna is on the other side of the roof, though; wouldn't be practical to run the wire down the fridge vent, but I could run it through the hole that the original tv wire came in. (ohm twin lead), which comes in through the center panel of the roof. From there, it could go anywhere, but I was thinking of running it to the cabinet in the front end cap.
On the other hand...my fridge vent cover already has a hole in it. PO had some sort of ham or cb antenna there. Looks like they cut the hole with a spoon ...all dented and not even close to a round hole. It was funny-looking, too, having an antenna sticking out sideways. I took it out, and covered the hole with aluminum tape. That was 14 years ago; its still in place, and has not leaked. so I "could" stick something in that hole, and run the wire down that way.
Old batwing element is mounted to the side of the mast, so another antenna can easily be mounted to the other side. NEW improved antennas can be retrofitted to the batwing mast--they come with brackets for that purpose...but they are flat, and sit on TOP of the mast, which would make it difficult to mount an additional antenna to it. It can be done, though...a friend of mine from the Wally club made a custom bracket to off-set the stick antenna from the batwing mast, so it can co-exist with the flat-top king jack tv antenna. The whole unit then cranks down and lays flat on the roof for travel.

I would probably just use the fridge vent cover. You have good access to the back of the fridge and if you are using the wifi-ranger, you just plug it into 12v power that's on the block. No need to go anywhere else. It is a router. It broadcasts a personal network to inside the cabin.
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Old 09-14-2016, 05:58 PM   #35
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Real world results

The wife and I went up to Port Clinton / put-in-bay for a 4 day trip. We stayed at the East Harbor state park in section C. They had WiFi and we could see it on our smart phones from our campsite, but it was not strong enough to get on the internet. After setting up the antenna it showed a 100/100 signal. Disappointingly the bandwidth was being shared by so many that although we could surf the internet, and video streaming was sporadic. Certain times of the day were better and it was better than no internet so I guess I can say the system does work.

We could see about 35 wifi points with one all away across the bay to a marina. We actually could get internet from them but it was weaker than the signal from the campground. As you can see from the image, it was about .6 miles away line of sight. Without knowing the source's strength, we can draw little from this other than it did work! I will keep testing and posting results here.
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:17 AM   #36
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One quick update: I've discovered that my Iphone and my Ipad under the new IOS 10.0.2 will not run the setup software anymore. I've tried Safari, chrome and firefox. Does not run properly.

It does work with a Mac laptop and a PC laptop. It may be an issue with flash. So I guess I have to bring a laptop with me to do the initial discovery of wifi locations and then once setup, it works fine with my other devices. This also might be a similar restriction with the other manufacturers of antennas. Maybe someone could chime in here.
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Old 10-27-2016, 08:25 AM   #37
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For someone who has the xl antenna and the wifi router repeater, do you have to have a computer to get up and running at campgrounds?


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Old 10-28-2016, 05:38 AM   #38
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Yes



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Old 10-28-2016, 06:55 AM   #39
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As I said in my earlier post, the router software does not run properly on an iPhone, android phone or any tablets I have. I did have it running on my iPad at first, but then I upgraded to 10.0.2 IOS and it stopped working. The company said to run it on a laptop. I carry one of those, so it is no problem.

Once the router is setup, all devices work fine for getting on the internet.

I also added a cell phone directional antenna to my mast and purchased the WeBoost cell booster. It works fantastically for bringing in far away cell towers signals and getting the signal into the trailer. The internal antenna spreads the signal throughout the cabin. I purchased the Weboost RV with the square outside antenna. I swopped out that antenna for Wilson's 12 db directional antenna. You have to turn the mast to find the closest tower. It works wonderfully and may be the best solution for getting a strong internet signal. Of course you use up your bandwidth on your plan, so plan accordingly.

So far the wifi solution works marginally in the campgrounds we have been to since installing Radiolabs. It's not the fault of the equipment, it's the inherent poor distance characteristics of WiFi. I believe it will shine while traveling and stops where a walmart, McDonalds, subway, or any other free WiFi is along the way.

This leads me to advise all of you who are going to use this method to go with the small rooftop solution. The antenna will always be up and ready for a nearby starbucks to feed you a signal. Stopping to put up an antenna makes no sense. And my solution although might connect to the campground wifi, I'm finding the limited bandwidth makes it useless for anything. I will probably add the one foot high antenna to my roof for this reason.
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:43 PM   #40
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I have a laptop, but was hoping what they say on their website about just running an IP address in a browser would allow me to just use an iPad to set up. Maybe they'll fix that. I just ordered the usb router whatever and the shorter of the marine antennas. I plan to put on an extendable pole and route from underneath AS, as soon as I figure the best place to enter. The refrigerator compartment has a floor and then the wheel well has a housing so not sure if that's a good place or not. I also have the weboost with a trucker antenna that I haven't figured out how to mount. Thinking I might use same pole and route with usb cable. Haven't decided on an inside antenna for weboost yet.


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Old 10-28-2016, 06:20 PM   #41
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Unfortunately I'm unable to post any photos, but I purchased a Diamond K-9000 electric motor and attached the omni-directional 8.5 Db gain WiFi antenna. I mounted then motor to a custom bracket attached to the air deflector that is between the AC and refrig roof vent. Ran the power wire and coaxial cable into the solar combiner box which came into an interior closet on the street side of the trailer. That's where I installed the Jefa WiFi router (powered via 12v DC) with the up/down motor switch. When we need WiFi, I press the up button and the antenna extends straight up and when we get ready to leave, press the down button and power off the router.
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Old 11-04-2016, 07:03 AM   #42
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The repeater in it's "refrigerator" rear location works quite well. It even reaches into the house!



I tested the systems capabilities by setting up a wifi hotspot on my wife's cell phone. I sent her walking down the street. Normally a hotspot on her phone is good for about 100' line of sight. When she reached the bend (about 600' away) I tested the signal. 92% 65mbps capable and was able to get 6 mb down and 9 MB up! Keep walking.



At the end of the street about an 1/8 of a mile away the signal dropped to 62% and about 24 mbps. I still could get 1mb (or a little less) down but had 2 mb up. I believe the antenna transmitter sends out a very strong signal for the up to be faster than the down.



Very successful! Cell phones do not have very strong transmitters so this should mean that an actual wifi router will transmit much further.

Turk, I went the usb repeater way also. It doesn't have holes to mount with. How did you mount to refrige wall?


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