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Old 11-26-2014, 09:12 AM   #267
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What is the diameter of the mounting pad of the camera. My 25fb has a light mounted under the dinette. There may be space behind the light to mount the camera. Not sure the wife is going to like the aesthetics of the camera hanging down.

Also any vibration or camera shake noticed?

Kelvin
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:17 AM   #268
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Kelvin,
The mount base is 2-1/4" diameter and it comes in two sections so it may be made either 3" or 6" in length. 6" is normally needed to clear the top of the mini-blinds. It is very sturdy and the camera does not come loose when traveling. No shaking whatsoever.
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:17 AM   #269
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Thanks Fred. This may have been asked but any issues mounting inside? Read something about the IR doesn't work well through the glass but if the camera is at all close to the low light sensitivity of one like the Voyager I'm not sure that the IR would make any difference?
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:29 AM   #270
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Gary,

The camera is 100% weatherproof and designed for outside security use. However, most folks mount the camera inside as it's easier even though you forfeit night vision (IR) capability. Infrared light does not penetrate glass so the only way to enable night vision is for the camera to be mounted outside. This involves drilling a 1/2" hole to run power from under the aluminum skin to the camera. Splicing to the middle rear clearance light power wire is usually what's done.

Please don't construe the above to mean the camera won't work at night. It still lets you see car headlights and streetlights same as with a real rear view mirror.
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:35 AM   #271
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When you splice into the clearance light then you have to have your headlights turned on full time?

Does the camera draw power all the time when mounted inside and connected to 12v? Just thinking about battery drain when not hooked up.

Kelvin
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:49 AM   #272
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Kelvin,

Yes, if mounted using a clearance light for power you'll need to have your headlights on while driving. If this is a concern, power can be drawn from an interior 12v source.

The camera and router can be unplugged when not in use. They each draw less than 1 amp so depleting your trailer batteries is not an issue. They are only in use while you're traveling and the TV is supplying more power than they are using.

As an aside, I have one of these cameras in my home basement for security purposes and it hasn't been turned off in 2+ years. Same with my home router. I'm able to monitor whether someone should attempt to break in through the basement door. If so, I get an alarm and video to both my iPhone and PC.
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:06 AM   #273
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Is the phone mount provided or is this and additional item that needs to be purchased?

In your top photo the camera is mounted behind the valance onto the bottom of the cabinet? The wire go off to one side. Do they reenter through the bottom of the cabinet behind the valance to access the light 12v wires?

Kelvin
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:31 AM   #274
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Kelvin,
This is the rear window mount provided with the camera system. There's a different one provided for exterior mounting:

Amazon.com: Panavise 845-246W Deluxe Micro Mount (Cream): Car Electronics

The camera power wire runs along the underside of the cabinet in the channel between the valance and shade to the top of the cabinet on the left so it's hidden from view. There, a 12 cigarette lighter type socket is installed. An 18-22 gauge wire runs inside that cabinet to the 12 volt light fixture. All the wires are out of sight.

The camera power wire could be run and connected directly to another 12 volt source if your trailer cabinetry or wiring differs.
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Old 11-26-2014, 12:02 PM   #275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
When you splice into the clearance light then you have to have your headlights turned on full time?

Does the camera draw power all the time when mounted inside and connected to 12v? Just thinking about battery drain when not hooked up.

Kelvin
Yes, you do have to have your headlights on all the time- or at least parking lights-
My camera gets power from the license plate light.
My truck's headlights turn off with 2 clicks of the key fob whenever we get out at a rest area. If you click the key fob once, the headlights will go off in a few seconds.
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Old 11-26-2014, 04:19 PM   #276
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In my installation I just ran the camera wire inside the cabinet then into the cavity to splice into the reading light. The camera power wire has a plug on it to disconnect when boondocking.


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Old 11-27-2014, 04:45 PM   #277
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Fred Stokes,
Your camera system looks very interesting. I am wondering about the front placement of the Netgear router. It might be cool to power that from running lights to avoid power draw when boondocking - and avoid necessity to unplug or turn it off. Could it be mounted low, under the dinette bench? (I am assuming, perhaps wrongly, that running lights wire is routed there?).

Charlie
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Old 11-27-2014, 05:05 PM   #278
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My system isn't exactly the same but I have my camera mounted inside the back window. I screwed the mount into the top of the frame. It's positioned to be centered at the back of the Airstream. I was able to run my cable down the window frame and into the storage compartment in the back.

I would say that the biggest drawback is that the window causes a glare on the camera when driving in the dark. I think if I ever change the location, I'll try to mount it near the license plate to see if that works. My very last choice would be to mount it up high on the back outside, putting holes in the skin.

In my setup, I really only need my camera to cover a limited area behind me. While it's nice to have a full, clear view, for me it isn't worth putting holes in the skin since a lot of the same areas are covered by my mirrors.

Lynn


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Lynn,

what system do you have?

Thanks

Bob
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Old 11-27-2014, 05:11 PM   #279
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Charlie,
You only use the camera system while traveling. The router and camera are easily unplugged when boondocking so no current is required. The router and camera combined only draw 2 amps. Your TV will supply more than enough to power them both while traveling plus a few extra amps to charge your battery.

The router is usually placed inside a front cabinet out of view and has no problem transmitting to your iPhone through the cabinet and aluminum shell.

Here's a picture of my router placement:
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Old 11-27-2014, 05:25 PM   #280
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Charlie,
You only use the camera system while traveling. The router and camera are easily unplugged when boondocking so no current is required. The router and camera combined only draw 2 amps. Your TV will supply more than enough to power them both while traveling plus a few extra amps to charge your battery.

The router is usually placed inside a front cabinet out of view and has no problem transmitting to your iPhone through the cabinet and aluminum shell.
Understood. I am just thinking if I put the router under the front bench it would be out of the way, not taking up normal storage spce, and I would not need to remeber to unplug it. The issue is would wireless transmission to iPhone or iPad in TV still work satisfactorily. Seem like it is worth a try.

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