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Flynavy · 03-09-2012, 11:16 AM

Existing skyliner is in decent shape so what I would like to do is adapt the twin conductor wire to recieve the coaix cable from a new tv. I have read about an adapter from radioshack that works. I went to the shack and the help there did not know what I should use. Anyone have a part # for this adapter?

Also the skyliner cranks up and down just fine but I can not get it to rotate. The shaft pushes up like it should. but it will not turn at all. I removed the exterior cover, oiled it up good, let it set for a couple days but it still won't turn, not even a little. Goes up and as if it were new. Can anyone tell me where to look next?

Thanks for the help.
Paul

jdalrymple · 03-09-2012, 12:37 PM

The Radioshack part number for a "balun" to convert flat lead to coax is 15-1140.

The stuck rotation part may take a little more work. The center shaft is kind of a tube within a tube arrangement. Concentrate a little WD-40 along the center shaft to free it up.

Regards,

Lumatic · 03-09-2012, 12:51 PM

I forget which is which but the ohm rating of coax is different from the flat. One is 300 ohm one is 75. I think you need an adapter in between the coax and the flat wire.

vswingfield · 03-09-2012, 01:04 PM

Amazon lists many options, search for 75 ohm to 300 ohm. I found a some that are weatherproof, they have a boot over the 75 ohm connection. That's what I have on my older Skyliner that I converted myself.

Amazon.com: Ace 75 To 300 Ohm Outdoor Matching Transformer (32968) [Misc.]: Everything Else

Amazon.com: Outdoor 75 To 300-OHM Matching Transformer with Weather Boot: Electronics

Amazon.com: WINEGARD TV-2900 82-Channel Weatherproof Transformer: Electronics

You might be able to find one locally, too. Print out a photo and take it to a hardware or electronics store. (The first link is to Ace Hardware.)

As far as getting it to turn, I would keep putting a penetrating lube on it from the top. WD40 is not a lubricant, it is a water displacer (hence the WD) with some lubricating properties. I prefer Tri-Flow myself. It's a little harder to find, but good for a lot of things and long lasting. I know that it works really well on bicycle shifters and the like.

Flynavy · 03-09-2012, 01:38 PM

Thanks for the help. Transformer looks easy enough. I assume all I need to do is splice into the existing antenna wires. Is there any polarity I need to be aware of?

In regards to the rotation issue. When I push up on the handle the shaft comes up compressing the spring high enough to remove the pin. I can drop the shaft down and remove it by doing so. I don't understand how or where it engages to rotate.

vswingfield · 03-09-2012, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flynavy

Thanks for the help. Transformer looks easy enough. I assume all I need to do is splice into the existing antenna wires. Is there any polarity I need to be aware of?

It's even easier than that. Disconnect the old flat 300 ohm wire from the antenna itself and attach the flat ends of the adapter there. Push the waterproof boot over the new 75 ohm coax, and thread the coax connector to the threaded 75 ohm connector. Push the waterproof boot over the adapter and that part is done. No polarity involved.

There is a photo of the inside connector on my 1983 Excella in this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f450...ml#post1097312. It came with coax from the antenna all the way to the back of the Braund wedge-shaped box (that also has the 12v outlet) and then adapted to the two pin connector for 300 ohm from the box to the back of the TV set. I just drilled a hole and put a 75 ohm connector in the box and now I have 75 ohm all the way. Yes, it's an incredible mess of stuff behind that cover.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flynavy

In regards to the rotation issue. When I push up on the handle the shaft comes up compressing the spring high enough to remove the pin. I can drop the shaft down and remove it by doing so. I don't understand how or where it engages to rotate.

Sounds like that part is OK. I have to push up (fairly hard) on the handle below while I' m twisting on it to turn the antenna.

jdalrymple · 03-09-2012, 03:04 PM

Flat lead is 300 ohm. TV coax is 75.

There are trade-offs to each. Flat lead looses less of the received TV radio signal along its length, but is prone to picking up interference. This is why the stand-offs were used to hold the flat lead away from the pole that supported the antenna.

Coax uses one of the conductors to shield the received signal away from other signals. Thus the design of the inner conductor being wrapped in a braid of wire, and in good coax a layer of foil.

For the best installation, use the adapter mentioned above to adapt the terminals of the Skyliner to coax. Run RG-6 coax from the antenna to the wall plate or tv.

For a super system, you could even add an amplifier (Radioshack 150-0321) to the skyliner, and have something even better than the bat wing on newer trailers.

vswingfield · 03-09-2012, 03:17 PM

Jeff made a good point about the amplifier. Both my Airstreams had one installed. I did update them to newer ones with a higher dB boost, but still used the same type. See Amazon.com: Philips 18dB Signal Amplifier with Return Path: Electronics for an example.

Disneysue925 · 03-09-2012, 04:28 PM

Thanks to all! We have the same problems with the skyliner on our trailer, so it is really helpful to find all of this great information. Thank you to all who have contributed--and flynavy--let us know how things work out!

Sue

Nuvite-F · 03-09-2012, 06:09 PM

There was a thread on this subject a while back. The post linked below has a copy of the manual for the Skyliner antenna attached.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f450...ml#post1065140

With the aid of this information I was able to get our old antenna rotating again. I took the cover off of the gearbox and sprayed penetrating oil down the shaft a few times before it broke loose, then greased the mechanism as recommended in the manual. It does take a fair amount of push and pull to move the crank from raise/lower to rotate modes, but it does work.

Flynavy · 03-09-2012, 06:34 PM

We are supposed to get fair weather the next couple days so I will get to work on it and report back.

Thanks!

Flynavy · 03-11-2012, 05:26 PM

Well, I slimed the antenna shaft and gears real good, got the up and down working like new, got the shaft pushing up with no effort, and still can not get the thing to rotate. When I extend the antenna, and back off a half turn like your supposed to and push up on the shaft I can feel it fall into a notch which should allow it to rotate. Still no go. There has got to be something in the base broken or missing. I need to make a phone call to Out of Doors mart and see if the rebuild kit has what I may need.

Found the transformer I need to convert to a coax connecter, now I'm not sure if I can just dump the autocoupler, so I started a new thread to get more info.

Nuvite-F · 03-11-2012, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flynavy

Well, I slimed the antenna shaft and gears real good, got the up and down working like new, got the shaft pushing up with no effort, and still can not get the thing to rotate. When I extend the antenna, and back off a half turn like your supposed to and push up on the shaft I can feel it fall into a notch which should allow it to rotate. Still no go. There has got to be something in the base broken or missing.

On ours (and I imagine on yours) the parked position of the antenna is straight aft. So you raise the antenna and back off half a turn like they say, and push up on the shaft to rotate. At that point the antenna is aimed straight aft.

There is a hard stop to prevent the antenna from rotating more than one turn. On ours the antenna will only turn. . .counterclockwise, as I recall, looking up at the handle from inside the trailer. It will go around for very close to a full turn, then you have to turn it back all the way clockwise to the stop to park it again.

By the way, I don't feel anything "falling into a notch" when I push up to rotate, but the antenna does rotate. One of these days I would be tempted to take the thing off the trailer so as to get into it and see what's really going on in there. But it's not a priority, because we seldom use the television.
.

vswingfield · 03-11-2012, 05:45 PM

You can keep the autocoupler by using a signal splitter and another transformer on the inside.

Run the one side from the splitter to the transformer then to the autocoupler, the other straight to the TV. Works great.

I'm more concerned about the problems you are having getting the base to rotate. I think I'd try removing the rotating part from the base by pulling up with the shaft and handle removed. More penetrating oil around that area.

I also attached the pdf of the manual referred to in an earlier post. Hope it helps.

Lumatic · 03-11-2012, 06:55 PM

There is a gear in the base which was stripped on mine. I think the local trailer supply had the replacement. Do you have the Skyliner off the roof yet?

Flynavy · 03-11-2012, 09:00 PM

I have not removed it from the roof as of yet. I think that is where I need to go from here. Rain in the forcast next few days, so maybe all that oil will do something by the end of the week.

Thanks again. You folks are great!

bmklawt · 03-12-2012, 08:53 AM

When you pull the handle down a pin in the shaft engages the gear that raises and lowers the antenna, when you push the handle up it engages the base of the antenna allowing for it's rotation.
I have included a few photos which hopefully will help you understand its operation.
I bought new gears, base plate, wire, spring, bearings, and shaft last year from the manufacturer, Braund Mfg, now a Div. of Barker Mfg. Co Barker_Home

Flynavy · 03-12-2012, 01:46 PM

Thanks for that info. I think I will drop the shaft down and out and see if I can get some penatrating oil in from that direction. I got the shaft out a couple days ago by pushing up on the shaft and removing the upper spring pin. The lower pin is in place. When I turn the crank counterclockwise it locks into something but won't turn. I'm starting to wonder if the PO put a screw in someplace or something like that to prevent it from turning.