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Old 02-18-2015, 11:18 PM   #41
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If you use the connectors that come with the Voyager wiring, then you need to drill a 3/4" hole. I drilled a 5/8" first, and the connector didn't fit through it. So I just finished the hole to 3/4" and the connector slides through and the grommet then fit perfectly,.

I could have cut the stock connector off, and wired up my own smaller diameter connectors (thought about it), and hence gotten by with a smaller hole to drill.. BUT, I didn't want to cut the stock wiring and connector until I knew the system worked and I didn't need to return it for some reason while under warrantee. In that case, I don't know if they will take a returned system with the wires all cut up.

So that was my reason for sticking with the 3/4" hole.
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:31 AM   #42
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I have the same camera on my 87 excella 34'. I removed rear center clearance light fixture. Used 1/2" hole saw. Cut hole behind fixture. Cut hole above where I mounted light. Pulled out clearance light wires ( could reach some slack then ) with a hook. Spliced in camera power feed. Threaded wire to camera hole and installed grommet. Used Parabond sealant and installed / reinstalled the rest. Also I changed all outside lights to LED cause I wanted to and have long life, no heat for running clearance lights full time to power camera. Many ways to do it.


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Old 01-20-2016, 08:53 PM   #43
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Must you activate the clearance lights in order to power the backup camera?
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Old 01-20-2016, 11:23 PM   #44
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Depends how your camera is wired. Our camera is on all the time unless we explicitly turn it off via a separate switch. Others have indeed wired their camera via the trailer lights so it only works when the lights are on.
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:18 AM   #45
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Camera power

With the clearance light power feed, yes clearance lights must be on to power camera. Im ok with that since I like to run the lights anyway and is only convenient switch Ive read about. My solution to the lack of slack in the wiring was to cut a larger hole behind the center clearance light. Also, there is probably more slack available behind the curb side clearance light of the 3 light group. Good luck. You will love the camera
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:50 AM   #46
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We tapped into the USB power supply in the back closet via a switch we mounted right next to it, so we can power the Voyager anytime we want independent of everything else.
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Old 04-26-2018, 05:07 AM   #47
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I found that popping out the grommet on the center clearance light made it easy to get 4 or 5 inches of wire to make my connection. It also allows space to feed the camera wire up through the hole to make connections.
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:47 AM   #48
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I just used my voyager 4.3 for the first time. No dropouts or loss of connection at all. The camera is very wide angle, objects are WAY closer than they appear , I have to get used to that. Not as clear a picture as my previous (Fred’s) system but totally adequate.

I mounted the camera inside looking out the back window through the screen. Now that I know it works, I’ll mount it outside. I’m thinking of cutting off the connector and tapping power from inside the clearance light fixture
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Old 05-21-2018, 10:17 AM   #49
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How do you remove plastic cover on clearance light? Brut force ?
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Old 05-26-2018, 05:38 PM   #50
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Newbie here. Really interested in this thread. Just bought a 2015 Flying Cloud 28RB in Ohio and towed it back to Arizona. Trip went well, but highlighted the need for a rear view camera.

Trying to decide between the Tadi Brothers Model SKU90113 and the Voyager WVOS541. Anybody have any experience with the Tadi Brothers system?

Also interesting in mounting the camera outside, without drilling a hole in the body. Am considered using 3M or equivalent exterior rated double sided tape, but wondering if it will hold up at highway speeds.

Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 06-22-2018, 01:02 PM   #51
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After opening the clearance light I see that they didn't leave any slack in the wiring, as others have found.

I guess I'll be drilling a new hole after all.

I was also thinking of using 3M HB tape to mount the bracket, but it has so many holes and slots in it that I on't think they'd be enough contact area.
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Old 07-06-2018, 06:16 AM   #52
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The hardest part of the installation was drilling that 3/4" hole in the exterior skin. Emotionally hard, not physically.

I used the supplied grommet and it captured both the bracket and the skin. Wired it to the reading light (as I had done for the previous interior mounted camera. Added a switch with a pilot light on it. I also left enough slack in the wiring so I can pull the camera connector out through the skin if I need to replace the camera.
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Old 07-06-2018, 07:05 AM   #53
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splice

I pulled off center clearance light, ran a wire from camera below and used a quick splice from hardware store. Quick, easy, works.
From Amazon: Morris Products 10774 Quick Splice Connector, Blue, 18-14 Wire Range (Pack of 25)
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Old 07-30-2018, 05:40 PM   #54
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Gotta day I really like the Voyager now that I’ve traveled s bit with it.
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Old 07-31-2018, 05:23 AM   #55
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Had the same issues with connecting to the center running light. I just popped out the grommet under the light and it freed up about four inches of free wire. That was plenty of slack to make my connections. I've been using it now for about 7,000 miles and it works great and I couldn't go without it.
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:54 PM   #56
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I couldn’t get any slack on my clearance light. Zero.
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