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Old 04-12-2007, 03:26 PM   #15
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Contacting Jim Paret is a real good idea! I would like to know just how that wall is constructred and secured to the trailer shell. In the meanwhile, maybe someone else has removed the wall, during a renovation, and can tell us what holds it together?
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Old 04-15-2007, 05:50 PM   #16
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I'm ordering a second smaller LCD for the front of the trailer. I want to fasten it to the cabinet end piece. I have replaced that end piece with 1/2 plywood in the original renovation, but it doesn't have any support wall under it. I would like to put the TV on the other side but the electricity is on the side with the sink. Has anyone tried to do this, and how did it work???
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Old 04-15-2007, 09:48 PM   #17
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Why have any TV? Nothing worth seeing on it.I am out boondocking (camping)to get away from that S---.My Sirius satellite radio alway works and gives me more info than I want or need.Also NO INTERNET real nice.
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Old 04-18-2007, 04:53 PM   #18
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I looked at a few mounting assemblies, ended up making one. Took what I liked from what I saw.

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Old 05-19-2007, 08:32 PM   #19
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I am getting ready to mount my LCD TV, but I have a unique issue. The wall I want to mount to is only 1/8" walnut veneered plywood. It is framed with cedar 1x2's. The TV is only 15" and is pretty light. I wonder if it is more beneficial to screw into the 1x2 studs, or do as Michelle has done and bolt to the wall with a piece of lexan, and acorn nut the back of the bolt. Whatever the case, I don't have alot of room to work with.

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Old 05-19-2007, 11:59 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cracker
Contacting Jim Paret is a real good idea! I would like to know just how that wall is constructred and secured to the trailer shell. In the meanwhile, maybe someone else has removed the wall, during a renovation, and can tell us what holds it together?
Cracker I hear ya. I've mulled over this pocket door for some time ago with the same thought to mount my LCD TV to the wall. That door is not easy to get out. My dealer had to replace the front pocket door that separates the front of the trailer from the bath. They told me that it's not an easy job. Apparently some screws that secured the fridge protruded enough into the pocket to scratch the door.

The key I think is to mount some renforcement inside the pocket on that bedroom wall. Even with the door out I think my hand is too big to get in that pocket. That wall is pretty thin and you really need to spread that weight over a larger area. I think the factory mount has at least 6 screws in it.

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Old 05-20-2007, 05:54 AM   #21
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Steve, to maximize the load carrying potentail, and minimize stress on the wood, I would use clear lexan on both sides of the wood, making a sandwich.
A larger piece of lexan inside the pocket door will spread the weight of the television out more, for you folks with the pocket door. I have no experience with the pocket doorm, though, so y'all are on your own for that part.
A small dab of clear silicone on the base of the nead of the carriage bolt will hold it in place for mounting, and if/when you want to remove it, it will allow the bolt to come out with only a little effort, unlike the epoxy suggestion. Also, since it is clear, any excess you don't wipe up will be much less visible.
If you don't like silicone, you can get a tube of 3M plastic and emblem adhesive, it is more like a glue, and will hold the bolt to the lexan, but not the wood.
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Old 05-20-2007, 09:12 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Steve, to maximize the load carrying potentail, and minimize stress on the wood, I would use clear lexan on both sides of the wood, making a sandwich.
A larger piece of lexan inside the pocket door will spread the weight of the television out more, for you folks with the pocket door. I have no experience with the pocket doorm, though, so y'all are on your own for that part.
A small dab of clear silicone on the base of the nead of the carriage bolt will hold it in place for mounting, and if/when you want to remove it, it will allow the bolt to come out with only a little effort, unlike the epoxy suggestion. Also, since it is clear, any excess you don't wipe up will be much less visible.
If you don't like silicone, you can get a tube of 3M plastic and emblem adhesive, it is more like a glue, and will hold the bolt to the lexan, but not the wood.
Terry,

I do not have a pocket door. The picture I have posted is a wall constructed of a sandwich of 1/8" plywood (Bread slices) and a middle of cedar 1x2s. You can see where the screws attach to the cedar since they stand out nicely. I am looking for an arm similar to what Balgrn made as I don't need a huge telescoping arm, but I do need it to move out slightly for a turn.

Steve
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