2010 Classic TV remount

[Jammer]

My classic came with a flat panel TV with an articulating arm mount that was ugly, covered up the thermostat, hard to use, stuck out from the wall too far when folded, heavy, and not especially secure.

I threw it in the dumpster.

I have reinstalled the TV with a Pyle PSW578UT ulra-thin mount. There are a number of manufacturers of this style of mount. They use four pieces of flanged U channel, with hooks cut into the vertical pieces (which attach to the TV), that set into the flanges on the horizontal pieces (which attach to the wall). The basic design is simple and secure.

The main problem is that the spacing of the mounting holes on the smaller flat panel TVs are narrow and the mounts extend beyond the edges of the TV somewhat unless cut off with a hacksaw or similar tool. Nonetheless, the mount is workable with modification.

New holes must be cut into the bulkhead since the A/V cables cannot cross a vertical portion of the mount. There just isn't enough clearance. Two holes are required, one on the left for the A/V cables, one on the right for power.

The Airstream-supplied TV has a modified audio-out circuit that goes through a plastic-wrapped aluminum can, a little larger than an old 35mm film canister. Inside the can is a circuit board with two isolation transformers. This is in the middle of a 24" piece of cable. The transformers are a hack to get rid of hum due to grounding problems.

I made the cable hole in the bulkhead larger on the left side, and cut the aluminum can away from the cable using tin snips. This left the somewhat smaller circuit board which I stuffed into the bulkhead. There was just enough space that I could stuff it in, and leave around 1/8" poking out from the bulkhead, little enough that the back of the TV cleared it ok.

The mount came with a security bar which I installed so the TV would not be able to bounce out on the road. I had to take out the stop on it, so I could slide it in from the aisle, since the way it was shipped it could only be inserted from the right side, and I had a wall there. I put the stop back in so now the bar can't fall out or be removed by hand unless someone undoes the screw.

For this to work I had to relocate the thermostat down about 6". This is easy to do.

I now have a much better looking installation, with good access to the thermostat, and the TV close enough to the wall that people don't hit their heads on it when seated at the dinette. Everything works.

I'll post photos in due course.

[Jammer]

Here are two photos of the TV and relocated thermostat. The second photo is a view from aisle to show how close the TV is to the wall.

[Jammer]

Also as part of this project I reoriented the AC power outlet so that the cord runs towards the wall rather than out away from it.