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Old 05-07-2019, 01:24 PM   #1
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1080p 24" & 28" TV?

Has anyone found a true 1080p version of these sizes TV's? I just noticed that even though the output of my cable is delivering 1080p to the tv's, they look like crap.

Max resolution is 768 horizontal so it makes sense the tv is cropping and rescaling the 1080p to make it "fit".

I can't seem to find any true 1080p tvs under 32". Anyone have any tips or know of one?

720p sucks when you're used to watching a 4k 60"..... 1st world problem I know.......

Thoughts?
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:26 AM   #2
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This is the free market at work. Never understood why they use the term "free market" when every market I've been to isn't free but costs real money.

So the manufactures discovered that they could make 720 TVs cheaper than 1080s. Consumers evidently couldn't easily tell the difference on smaller screens (On smaller screens, the pixels are closer and closer together)
Consumers like to buy cheaper stuff (hence why Wal-mart is a bigger company than say, Neiman Markus)

But, yes, you can indeed purchase a 1080p 24" TV, you just have to look harder. Amazon has some for sale.
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:39 AM   #3
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You can go with a 32 inch. I have a 25FB with a 32 inch and it just fits the fridge wall. I lowered it a few inches and it doesn't stick out much past the wall no more than the fridge door depth. If you get a 32 inch with a narrower frame
you can do even better. I moved the factory provided 28" to the bedroom where it isn't used much.
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:28 AM   #4
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What I realized after I posted this and went home to test a theory was that I'm using Cox's cable box (small box) that has coax out and HDMI. The box is in the garage and I ran the output of the box to the input of the cable on the AS.

Well that output from the box is labeled SD to TV. So that is why I have a crappy picture.

I have the same box on my kitchen TV via HDMI and it is getting 1080p.

I move the box to the AS and ran HDMI to the 24" and it came right up as 1080p 60fps......and the picture looked "great"....I'm sure there is some crunching going on there, but a big improvement to the point of........."center of good enough" vs. what I had.

So I ordered a 3x2 matrix to drive the tvs, and I'll move the cox box into the trailer and put the DVD into the second port leaving an open port for any other HDMI device that needs to attach.

Now I just need to figure out how to get into the DVD area to make the changes. Not sure how it is screwed in, there are 4 screws on the left, and an access panel I can't seem to get off.......
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:29 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRIPPPIN View Post
You can go with a 32 inch. I have a 25FB with a 32 inch and it just fits the fridge wall. I lowered it a few inches and it doesn't stick out much past the wall no more than the fridge door depth. If you get a 32 inch with a narrower frame
you can do even better. I moved the factory provided 28" to the bedroom where it isn't used much.
I was looking at 32's but I just didn't want to have to move anything and it looks like it would "jut out" just a bit......so I went to look for another method.....see above post for clarification of what I found out (i.e. I was doing it wrong!).

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Old 05-08-2019, 08:46 AM   #6
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I went to 32". Worked out really well for my install. Didn't move the mount.

Shifted the factory-installed 28" to the bedroom and got rid of the 24". Added Samsung TV Mate soundbar. Much better experience.

I deployed this 32" 1080p unit:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung...?skuId=6202106

Samsung UN32N5300AFXZA.

and soundbar:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung...?skuId=6199819

Samsung HW-N400/ZA

I also have audio feed back to my pioneer audio system in the trailer, so if content is not locked, I can also play audio from the TV / Soundbar through the pioneer / Polk audio system I have upgraded in my trailer...
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Old 05-08-2019, 08:55 AM   #7
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Seems to me I remember that Airstream has had Samsung models for a long time. I believe I've read here that customers were having problems with "other" tv's when hooking up to campground cable. Most other TV's do not work as there is a protecti0on scheme in there if you do not have a cable box.

So be aware that adding a new TV to your Airstream may actually cause a problem using basic cable from a campground.

Others with more knowledge could chime in here.

Glad you got it fixed.
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Old 05-08-2019, 10:30 AM   #8
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I have this one at home and it's been reliable.
VIZIO - 24" Class - LED - D-Series - 1080p - Smart - HDTV
I may have the older version, but it has a optical audio output for a soundbar.
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Old 05-08-2019, 01:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kittmaster View Post

720p sucks when you're used to watching a 4k 60"
This statement is your answer. Anything less will suck.
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Old 05-08-2019, 03:14 PM   #10
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Check out the Jensen line of TV for use in marine or RV environments. Internal boards are coated to prevent corrosion or other problems in moisture environments. They have 12 volt versions of which I have the 24" version in my 25' mid bath. It has been in there for over 5 years and still going strong with great picture. They make all kinds of sizes and I recommend them for your trailer.
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Old 05-08-2019, 08:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wulfraat View Post
I also have audio feed back to my pioneer audio system in the trailer, so if content is not locked, I can also play audio from the TV / Soundbar through the pioneer / Polk audio system I have upgraded in my trailer...

Out of curiosity, what do you mean by locked content?
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Old 05-08-2019, 08:56 PM   #12
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1080p 24" & 28" TV?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nryn View Post
Out of curiosity, what do you mean by locked content?


Certain digital broadcasts lock the content so it can only be viewed on a single screen. This is implemented through security handshakes within the HDMI communication protocol and is referred to as High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP).

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/High...ent_Protection

If you try to re-broadcast the audio or video (ďdaisy chainĒ) via secondary hdmi or optical output it will be blocked.

I have my main stereo head unit fed off the optical out of the soundbar... Input to the soundbar is via HDMI ARC (audio return channel) from the smart TV. What this means is that certain broadcasts (Netflix for example) audio replication on a secondary optical out channel is prevented, and I cannot hear the audio on my pioneer head unit. Sometimes the content is not locked (with other digital broadcasts) and you can hear it just fine no problemo.

Itís a content licensing thing that takes advantage of HDMI protocols to prevent replication of the content on multiple screens or audio devices or recording devices.
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Old 05-09-2019, 09:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by wulfraat View Post
Itís a content licensing thing that takes advantage of HDMI protocols to prevent replication of the content on multiple screens or audio devices or recording devices.
Got it--I know what HDCP is. Had to look up ARC though Last time I did anything AV related was when my kids were born. Haven't had time since...

In my Globetrotter, there is a strange (home-brew?) wire with a set of RCA jacks coming out from a hole in the TV--not the RCA ports on the TV-- and it's those that connect to the Polk Audio system. Sadly, there is no option in the TV menus to turn off the speakers on the TV, so you have tinny TV sound and the Polk audio sound at the same time. I suppose I could go in there and disconnect the speakers. I also bought two new ceiling speakers to install facing down in corners of the upper lounge cabinet--the front-facing speakers are great unless you are behind and under them, in which case you mostly hear the sub and speech is really hard to understand. But I'm hesitating to install them. So I was interested in your soundbar.

Anyway, a month or so ago our local Costco had a big sale on the N5300 that you mention and I bought it to replace the OEM Samsung TV (which is not a very good model at all). The only real audio out it has is optical.

So the choices I've decided to make available to myself:
  1. get a soundbar, don't install the speakers, and just run optical from the TV to the soundbar. Skip running the audio to the Polk audio system. I don't really watch TV much anyway (once a week or so), but an occasional family movie would go a long way on a rainy spell.
  2. install the speakers, get an optical>RCA converter and run all audio through the Polk. I understand that some TV broadcasts would not go through the optical, and that's fine. I also understand that there may be some incompatibility between surround formats and the optical connection, and that will drive me bonkers
  3. Install the speakers and get an HDMI switch with a pair of audio RCA outs. I'm wary about doing this though because of HDCP (all of our content is basically AppleTV or iTunes/Netflix movies).
  4. Just install the TV and use it as-is.

I've messed around with soundbars and like them better than TV speakers, of course, but haven't found any that sound very good without a sub. The Polk system in the GT sounds pretty good (speaker directionality issue notwithstanding).

Just typing these ideas out. I realize this is a little off topic (sorry OP), but to bring it back onto topic--you'll need to look at the outputs on whatever TV you purchase if you want to connect it to any existing equipment. I was a little surprised how few of them have RCA audio outs now.
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Old 05-09-2019, 09:51 PM   #14
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1080p 24" & 28" TV?

Here is what I did....I used 2 different audio outputs from the TV... turns out they are both active at the same time....

(1) HDMI ARC to sound bar.

(2) Optical out from TV to optical->RCA adapter... then connected to rca stereo cables to feed audio back to the stereo...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KN...b_b_asin_title

The built in speakers for the Samsung TVs are crummy at best. At a minimum consider adding a soundbar. The one I stuck in works well, and fits the space nicely. Also avoids audio blasting down from above if you donít want that effect.....

PS - I also ditched the factory sub and replaced with a basic 10Ē pioneer unit with built in amp. Huge difference and only cost about $115 bucks.
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