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Old 07-21-2002, 10:38 AM   #1
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I finally went camping...

(yay!...). Just took it to a local place...only about 20 minutes from home. Had to swing back to the house to pick up a couple of things, so I thought I'd check the boards...

Couple of things I discovered yesterday: the very new-ish (couple years ?) fridge, which works wonderfully on gas, does not seem so good on 12v. While getting ready to leave yesterday, I switched it over to elec. from gas...was maybe an hour before hooking up at the campground, and found that the temp had risen from the mid-30's to the mid 50's. wondering if this is normal, or if things should stay pretty cold while on the road? I switched it back to gas right away, as I have stuff that I don't want to spoil....

I also found that my original looking skyliner antenna is pretty badly damaged. I knew that nothing happened when I turned the crank to raise it, but I just climbed up on the roof yesterday to inspect it....the teeth on the elevating gear are gone. also, one of the alluminum rods that forms one of the "legs" of the antenna is broken off, so even if the gear worked, it still wouldn't raise. Wondering if there are replacement parts for this whole unit...I've seen the gears and cranks on at least one website, but google search for "skyliner antenna" yields few hits. There are probably more modern alternatives available, but I'm thinking that the 6 or 7 inch plate at the base of this thing would make retrofitting difficult. There's undoubtedly a big hole in the roof underneath this thing ;-) !
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Old 07-21-2002, 11:48 AM   #2
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Congrats on your shakedown run! I have to ask if you meant 120 or 12 volt operatoin vs. gas. The refers that use 12 volts for heating are notorious for not working well and if forgotton can kill a coach battery in no time. If you are having a 120V problem you may want to be sure it is plugged in. Some ol timers unplug the refer so they do not accidently use it on electric at a "limited electric" rally. If yours is a manual switch over model the light will still work as it is 12V but there is no indicator that the heating element is coming on. This would need to be tested with a volt meter.

As to the skyliner antenna stuff here is a link to a site for parts:

http://www.camperworks.com/store/sat...tennas_acc.htm

have fun!
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Old 07-21-2002, 04:33 PM   #3
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Hey Chuck - congrats on the first time out.
Your post is like deja-vu to me. We took the family to a local park, I also ran home to get a breath from the kids, grab a beer and check the posts. My refrigerator also gave me trouble. It works fine until you start putting stuff into it. It is like it has no torque or something. It runs good when empty, but takes forever for anything more than a stick of butter. I am NOT trusting my suds with it.
I always bring an ice box, just to be safe.
The partk we went to is about 15 min from our house. we drove the kids there, taking the long way so they wouldn't notice......
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Old 07-22-2002, 12:13 PM   #4
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Talking

LOL! "tourque" on a 'fridge"...I like that!

I was referring to "12v" electric. there are only 3 settings on this unit, (which is fairly new...only a couple of years at the most). 'gas", "electric", and "off". I have no manual for it, although I did see the site w/ all the dometic manuals in pdf format....just haven't had time to read it yet. I'm assuming that it takes whichever form of "electric" is available.....120v if plugged in to shore power, or 12v if not. I switched it over to electric for the road trip...all 20 minutes. We were probably running on 12v for about an hour or so. Anyway, on gas this thing cools like nobody's business. Same on 120v. I'm just wondering if its not "working right" on 12v, or if its normal for it to work crappy while the coach is moving.

The other suprise I got this am...when I pulled over to the dump station, I tried to attach my "sewer solution", and it wouldn't fit!! The "bayonet" thingys (it has 4) wouldn't line up w/ the one's on the trailer's drain pipe, so I had to use the old slinky that came with it. I wonder if there's an adaptor......Oh, well. I managed to dump without getting any on me, so I figure I'm ahead of the game .

Oh, I also found out that 2 "navy-style" showers pretty much fill a 10 gallon tote-tank. Gotta get a bigger one.....
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Old 07-22-2002, 12:49 PM   #5
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On the dometic refers gas is gas and electric is electric(120V) if you have a 12v DC setting you would have a 3 way refer. As you describe it you have a 2 way one. 2 way is the most common model as the ones that will run on DC are not very efficent in DC mode and tend to have many circuit board troubles.

So as you drove to the campground with your refer in electric mode it was not really running. Unless you had a very long extension cord pulgged in at home and hooked to your rig.

There is a 12V DC connection at the back of the refer, but this is usally for the igniter system, that is if yours has an electronic ignition, most newer ones do.

So my reccomendation would be if you are towing and want to keep it cool run on gas. Remeber to stop prior to pulling into a gas station and shut down the refer, as well as pay attention to approaching tunnels(most want all LP systems shut off prior to passage). I had a refer with the 12 volt capibility but never connected it as the current draw would have been huge and the reccomendation of othe WBCCI members was that with the DC connected as a heating source the boards tended to blow out more frequently.
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Old 07-22-2002, 10:32 PM   #6
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3 way fridge story

Quote:
Originally posted by thenewkid64
On the dometic refers gas is gas and electric is electric(120V) if you have a 12v DC setting you would have a 3 way refer. As you describe it you have a 2 way one. 2 way is the most common model as the ones that will run on DC are not very efficent in DC mode
My old Hi-Lo had a three way. We used to run it on 12 volts while towing. My first trip with the new trailer was from St. Louis to Nashville Tn. We got to the campsite on a hot summer day, I pushed the switch to raise the trailer and it just moaned and did nothing.

As it ended up my plug wasn't making good contact with the 12 volt line supplying power from the auto. It only took about 5 hours to kill the battery. I ended up unhitching and pulling my car nose to nose with the trailer. Got out my jumper cables and jumped the trailer battery. My wife gave me an earful about buying that funny trailer that popped up and down. Kept it 14 years. Was nice that I could keep it in the garage.

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Old 07-23-2002, 11:28 AM   #7
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Well I guess that explains it. (duh). I saw the 12v connections behind the access panel, and figured, "oh, it must work on 12v". I guess I should have rtfm (read the ___ manual)...but in my own defense, I don't have one. What do I need one of those for when I have you guys?? LOL

So, what do you all think about the safety of driving around with the fridge running on gas? big deal? I kinda like the idea of everything being shut off......
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Old 07-23-2002, 11:53 AM   #8
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IF (notice it is a BIG if) you are running OPD tanks, towing with the gas on is no big issue. if you god forbid got ito a serious wreck or a line gets damaged to the point you hava high volume leak the OPD should stop the gas flow. That is part of the reason for the mandated change. I have always towed with the gas on and the refer running. I want to be able to park, setup and sit down with the cold beverage of my choosing. And I want it cold, not rodeo warm. Now that I have a MH I drive with the gas on, refer running. I even leave it on gas if I run the Genset.

If you talk to other owners you will get everything from no worries to DO NOT do that. If you plan ahead and shut down the appliance prior to gas or fuel stops and turn it off as mandated by DOT rules(tunnels, etc.) I would not worry. Remember with an electronic ignition refer, turning off the gas at the tank is not the same as turning off the refer. The igniter will still try to lite the unit even without gas. This will cause a spark and could ignite fumes at a gas station. So turn off the refer, and if it makes you feel better turn it off at the tank too. After filling, pull away from the pumps and allow a couple of min. to pass prior to restarting the refer. This was how I did when we fulltimed for 2+years and that is how I do it now.
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Old 07-23-2002, 01:42 PM   #9
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Thanks, Brett. I don't yet have the OPD valves, but those are coming soon (obviously). Found a local place that'll switch over the valves and re-certify the tanks, although they seem a bit pricey...still cheaper than replacing aluminum tanks. I think one of them just emptied...the other is still pretty full. I'll get 'em done one at a time, so I won't be w/o propane.
just hoping that the fittings on the regulator, etc, will fit ok.
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