It's 45* and raining heavily. Temps projected to be dropping thru freezing level by Friday. I have an 11:00 AM flight out-a here and back to the FL warmth and sunshine. THIS PLACE IS DEPRESSING!!!!!!!....BUT INFORMATIVE.
A few answers: (more coming after tomorrow....)
Gkiesel:
Regarding the longevity of the products. While I couldn't get any definitive answer from one of the higher-ups that I met today, the answer seemed to revolve around eonomics, competition and the corporate need to make money. Call it planned obsolescence if you like, but most things are 'not made like they used to be'.
john hd:
I have a very definitive answer for you on the 12 VDC conversion kits. Every electric model is tested at UL Labs and receives a UL rating certificate. Adding a 12VDC kit to a 120VAC unit would de-list the unit from it's UL rating and create a huge liability potential for the company.
Also, the 12VDC operating system is designed strictly to be a maintenance cooling mode. That means that it will keep your fridge at whatever temp it is at when 12VDC operation begins. It is NOT designed to lower the temps in the unit. In fact, the unit is designed to operate at a MINIMUM of 12.8VDC. This assumes that you are traveling and under way and the TV's alternator is providing the voltage. Anything lower and the unit will start wraming up.
ganglin:
I'll be checking with archives for your manual tomorrow.
AirConditioner:
You could have several possible scenarios: The first I already mentioned. That being the clean and unobstructed chimney tube and clean and INTACT spiral baffle that is suspended in that tube. This is a critical area, as the spiral baffle is totally responsible for creating a 'hot spot' within the boiler tube where the chimney is welded to the pump tube. This is the only point where the heat generated by the LP flame is transferred to the ammonia solution. If it is dirty, corroded, out of position or even not there, it could be causing your problem.
Also, venting is critical. You might have a situation where the hot air created by the LP flame, and by the heat transfer from within the freezer is not being properly vented from the back of the unit. Your manual should detail the proper installation, but generally, there is zero clearance on top and sides and a max of 1-1.5" from the absorber coils to the side wall of the trailer.
Further, the design of this 'box' is also critical in providing a smooth air flow up and out of the box. Look for any obstructions or improper installation dimensions. PM me if you still have a problem. I think a fan is in your future!!
Lewster, I apreciate you looking into a manual. I contacted dometic and they sent me to someone who sent me to someone that did not want to be bothered. Finding the units info was hard... the tag was hanging front and center when I opener the grill. It says N50 B3 above the temp. dial. On the tag it says: unit type 75A... input rating 2000 BTU/ HOUR.... and in a box below that it says N 50.
62'O,
You have a Norcold unit as indicated by the 'N' in the model #. The only 'Ns' that Dometic uses are the NDR series, and they are all late model units. The NRD stands for New Dimension Refrigerator. Unfortunately, Dometic can't help with their competitors units.
Michelle,
Here' what your alphabet soup means:
CLC or CLIMATE CONTROL is a switch that controls a frame heater. This switch is engaged in high temperature AND humidity conditions when moisture is found on the refrigerator frame where the door seals make contact. The moisture on the frame impairs the sealing properties of the door....leading to air leaks, lower internal fridge temps and the formation of frost and/or icing of the cooling fins. This heater draws less that 0.5 amps
LAC /LAT or LOW AMBIENT CONTROL or TEMPERATURE is a switch that activates a circiuit to bypass the door switch to allow the interior light to remain ON when the door is closed! This is done when the outside (ambient) temperature is below 50*F. The intent is to create a mild heating effect in the fridge section that will tell the thermistor to engage the cooling unit to cycle every 35-55 minutes. This will help keep the temps in the freezer (uncontrolled) in the proper freezing zone. In low ambient temps, if this switch is not engaged, the fridge will stay cool, the cooling unit will not cycle, and the freezer will warm beyond it's acceptable range. It also keeps the cooling unit from freezing (there is water in the coolant mix) by cycling the cooling unit.
This switch should not be operated if the ambient temps are above 50*, as it will negatively effect the cooling operation of the fridge.
Hi Sorry I missed this one my old 1989 works good.Only thing it get to cold on 115V with thermostat almost off still freezes top shelf. OK on gas thermostat about 1/4th to full cold is fine.
well you sent me out with the camera and a flashlight... On the door it say "Dometic, made in Sweden"
this tag is very visible it says 50 B4 and is at the top of the thermostat.
This tag says unit type 75A , input rate 2000 btu/ hour, and M50 at the bottom.
This tag says 75A on the left and 12310647 on the right. Sorry the photo sucks.
I opened the access door behind the fridge and could not see any tags. I am sorry if I gave you any wrong info, but it says Dometic in at least 5 locations on the unit. This might be reaching far, but do the have the paint codes? I love this shade of pink.
Class is over and it's back to work in warm....sunny FL. Sorry gang, but IN was quite dreary and dismal......not to mention COLD! Oh, and I forgot to mention how COLD it was there!!!!!
Anyway, here are the last words from Dometic:
For any of you with older Dometic fridges, the company does not support these units from the 60's and 70's with manuals any longer.....but they have sold all of their proprietary information to a firm i Elkhart that should have anything you are looking for in the way of documantation.
Call 'All Seasons Co.' in Elkhart, IN at 1-800-344-3803 and they should be able to get you the manual that you need.
I am also a certified 'Team 2000' tech for Dometic now. So if you have any refer or air conditioner problems that your normal service people can't solve, I might just have the answers.
Please ask them why after I leave my trailer in storage for a couple of months I have to climb on the roof of the trailer and have someone turn on the A/C and I have to spin the fan blades in order to have the fan start spinning. If I do not do this it will just sit there and draw current and not cycle!!
I wonder what the older people do who can not climb up a ladder onto the roof of their Airstream and do this. This is unacceptable.
richg
Please ask them why after I leave my trailer in storage for a couple of months I have to climb on the roof of the trailer and have someone turn on the A/C and I have to spin the fan blades in order to have the fan start spinning. If I do not do this it will just sit there and draw current and not cycle!!
I wonder what the older people do who can not climb up a ladder onto the roof of their Airstream and do this. This is unacceptable.
richg
Richg,
Simple problem with a simple answer. Your run capacitor on the roof air is bad and should be replaced. The fan needs a little 'boost' that is provided by the run capacitor, and when this device is bad, that boost just isn't there, needing you to get up there and give the fan a boost.
Any competant RV tech should be able to do this for you. If there are none in your area, PM me and I'll give you the details.
CLC or CLIMATE CONTROL when it is hot and humid ie not cold.
LAC /LAT or LOW AMBIENT CONTROL = cold = winter jacket time.
Lew thats great!
Ok I have one more I though of. My freezer frosts up badly. The dollar in the door seal showit loose. I talked with one of the AS factory techs and he says it is supposed to be that way. I do not open the thing much (once a week) so she should not be frosting up that much. Given the frost is mostly at the top I assume a air leak in the upper door seal. Can you find out how tight the door seal should be?
__________________
Michelle
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Sarah
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Lew thats great!
Ok I have one more I though of. My freezer frosts up badly. The dollar in the door seal showit loose. I talked with one of the AS factory techs and he says it is supposed to be that way. I do not open the thing much (once a week) so she should not be frosting up that much. Given the frost is mostly at the top I assume a air leak in the upper door seal. Can you find out how tight the door seal should be?
Hey Michelle,
How's the gumbo.? I could use a nice vist to Bourbon St right about now.
Anyway, I'm afraid that the AS tech who told you that needs to go back for a little re-training!!! There should be a noticeable pull on the dollar bill when you remove it from a closed door. Your freezer obviously has a bad seal. Some frost is inevitable, since you have to open the door to get at your stuff...especially in very humid climates. But excessive frosting is the first sign of an improper door seal.
You can access the back of the seals by gently lifting the seal from the inside edge. For the seal that is on the top of your freezer door, it would be the bottom edge of that seal. You can add a strip of 1/4" thick foam weather stripping in beween the door and the seal....and it will push it out just enough to make a better contact with the frame.
There are several other issues when you get severe frost-up. Try the seals first and if the condition persists, let me know and I'll give you steps 2 and 3 . They are a bit more involved!!!!!
Lewster, That 800 number sends me to a 10-15-15-800 directory service... I hung up out of fear that I was calling one of those $1.99/ minute scams that hold you in a recording until it is too late and you've spent a few dollars. Is that the right number?
Lewster, That 800 number sends me to a 10-15-15-800 directory service... I hung up out of fear that I was calling one of those $1.99/ minute scams that hold you in a recording until it is too late and you've spent a few dollars. Is that the right number?
I'll call Dometic on Monday and double check for you.
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Sorry I missed this one my old 1989 works good.Only thing it get to cold on 115V with thermostat almost off still freezes top shelf.
OK on gas thermostat about 1/4th to full cold is fine.
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