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Old 11-23-2008, 10:43 AM   #1
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Xantrex XADC-60

The following information is FACTUAL from my own testing.

I wanted a converter that would operate on my Honda 1000. This was my major concern.I was in contact with Randy @ bestconverter.He indicated that some folks said their H1000's struggled a bit with this setup. I'm thinking -some folks. anyway my previous use with my H1000 and the univolt worked. The old uni needed 8.6 amps. With the H1000 and a #12 gauge extension cord 10 feet long my H1000 would run on eco mode. I never used the shore power cord.

My decision was to go with the XADC-60 not the smaller 40. If the H1000 was not up to the task I would use the 60 in the Argosy moho I own.

The -60 calls for 9 amps input, the H1000's upper end.But the Xantrex literature indicates that the smaller genny should operated the converter.

The test at 65F.
Starting batt voltage. 12.4 (2- 225a. 6volt deep cycle) about 77%.
Started H1000, 12 gauge 10 foot long extension cord plugged into -60.
Genny was on eco mode but was hunting up and down. So i switched to full power.
After 18 minutes the batt voltage was 14.00 V.
switched to eco mode with no problems- genny now in eco mode.
1 hour into test batt 14.15 V.
2 hour into test batt 14.17 V.
2 hour 17 min into test batt 13.53 V.

Wow -- I'm thrilled with my findings.

I highly recommend Randy at bestconverter.com.

Once again I'm NOT using the shore power cord. It's a short story,
later. DG
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Old 11-23-2008, 01:49 PM   #2
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I am also happy with my recently installed XADC-60 (from Randy, too -- thanks again, Randy!).

I find it settles to 13.54V fairly quickly, just as you saw. Mine reports <0.5A for the long top-off, which I like to think is fairly gentle on the batteries.

Cheers,
-jd.
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Old 11-23-2008, 04:02 PM   #3
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5Cats- Do you have to do the new distribution panel or was that an extra you wanted to do?
I read you also changed the heater duct. Did you add a second one or move the original?
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:42 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam View Post
5Cats- Do you have to do the new distribution panel or was that an extra you wanted to do?
I read you also changed the heater duct. Did you add a second one or move the original?
Nope the DC panel wasn't required. Randy's site has a how-to on swapping just the converter part, fitting inside the old Parallax chassis. I just wanted the matched parts together, and the DC panel wasn't much.

I added a second duct -- my unit only had the one main heater outlet in the hallway -- punching out one of several pre-punched access holes on one side of the heater plenum. I found a duct adaptor at a local trailer supply store (it fits in and rotates to lock in place, all from the outside) for a couple of bucks. The home improvement store had some aluminum rigid flex duct (4") that I ring-clamped to the adaptor, and ran about three feet to an outlet that I installed facing the front of the trailer. The duct runs right behind the installed XADC, wrapped in some insulating foil/foam to cut down on transferring any heat to the power converter. In practice it works very well, distributing the heat much better and cutting down on the short cycling problem.

Cheers,
-jd.
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Old 11-24-2008, 01:49 AM   #5
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Interesting what you did. I'd like to see some more pics JD.
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:55 PM   #6
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I installed a Xantrex XADC 60 in my Argosy this Summer, which has two 190 AH 6V GC batteries. They charge quite quickly from the Honda 2000i. I attached the 12V to the factory fuse/distribution panel.

Now I need replace the fuse panel due to an unrelated problem.
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