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Old 03-05-2012, 11:17 AM   #15
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1990 34' Excella
1990 29' Land Yacht
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May I add my present dilema ?? 74 27' Overlander. rear bath. OE / Airstream inverter RR corner sort of under bath tub surround and accessible from a small opening at the end and under the right side twin bed....110V works, 12V works. Something in the noisy inverter keeps cycling / resetting. Thus far find no power interruptions, everything seems to work ???? Just noisy hum , radio interference and the resetting sound. ( just bought this trailer). How did Airstream expect to service the inverter in this location. Remove tub or locate some very small person..? Thanx in advance Jim C.
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:35 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by batt View Post
The gray wire is the ammeter power source which for some reason will not now function if I were to hook it to the 12v circuit, since it is now redundant with the new converter?
There is a small bit on the old Univolt that we refer to as the "shunt". It's purpose was to provide a voltage and proper load that would make the tank monitors and battery indicators on the Control Panel operate properly.

It can be detached from the Univolt, but I have no photo to show you at this time. Don't throw out the Univolt until you locate this device if you want to connect those gauges in the Control Panel. Probably, good use of the search function combined with some patience will locate the instructions and photos of it.

I do have a drawing that was created by Zeppelinium (sp?) for connecting it in.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:36 AM   #17
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1974 25' Tradewind
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Unfortunately that Univolt got tossed out a long time ago.So now I guess I need to update the control panel so I know the level of the tanks, unless someone know how to make up a new shunt. Any one have a schematic on making a Shunt?
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:41 AM   #18
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The shunt is for the ammeter on the panel. The tank level meters do not use the shunt.
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:47 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Mitzi View Post
May I add my present dilema ?? 74 27' Overlander. rear bath. OE / Airstream inverter RR corner sort of under bath tub surround and accessible from a small opening at the end and under the right side twin bed....110V works, 12V works. Something in the noisy inverter keeps cycling / resetting. Thus far find no power interruptions, everything seems to work ???? Just noisy hum , radio interference and the resetting sound. ( just bought this trailer). How did Airstream expect to service the inverter in this location. Remove tub or locate some very small person..? Thanx in advance Jim C.
Sorry about your predicament, I suggest you post a new thread listing the year and style of your AS so someone who has a similar unit can respond.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:08 AM   #20
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The shunt is for the ammeter on the panel. The tank level meters do not use the shunt.
OK, that's good , Could you tell me , do I wire in the Black and red line fused wires which are the tank circuits into the 12v fused panel or are they now rendered worthless without the Univolt?
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:46 PM   #21
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The shunt is for the ammeter on the panel. The tank level meters do not use the shunt.
So do I just wire the Red and Black lines into the 12v panel and it will then make the tank meters work?
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:40 PM   #22
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If you are talking about the reb and black wires from the shunt, they go to the ammeter on the Control Panel and have nothing to do with the tank meters.
he tank meters run off the Control Panel which gets it power from circuit number 5.
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:38 PM   #23
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1974 25' Tradewind
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Ok, On my trailer ,I had a #6 coppr ground wire which was fastened to the main I frame and was the main ground, I know this because I had to do major frame repair.Perhaps this was a later addition?

The two white wires are the ground wire from the car wiring and also runs to the radio console as a ground there. I noticed that one had a screw fastener on it, so I am guessing that this would ground to the body. The other would ground on the ground strip on the converter on the position where the battery ground ties in? Please verify.

Now just to clarify the blue wire is a circuit and wired into one of the fused circuits on the 12v side, correct?Since mine has two 30amp circuits on lines 1 an 2 it would have to be one of these.

The red and black lines are 12v circuit lines for the holding tanks and power the indicators on the control tank console? These are to become individual fused circuits on the 12v side. They also have line fuses I am guessing that now they are on a fused panel circuit they will not need the line fuse?

The gray wire is the ammeter power source which for some reason will not now function if I were to hook it to the 12v circuit, since it is now redundant with the new converter?

Sorry for being anal about this , I just want a minimum frustration level at power up time.

Thanks for everyone's time I am talented at a lot of things , not wiring.
A couple of days ago I installed a new 60 A (overkill) Progressive Dynamics Charge Wizard converter in my 74. I believe I wired everything, including the two white (grounds) as you mention above. I found it helpful to use the fuse block from the old Univolt as my new fuse panel. Just drilled out the four pop rivets holding it into the Univolt housing, disconnected the wires and puled it out. Then I attached it to two 2x2 strips/spacers that were screwed to the wall of my trailer. Fortunately, all of the lugs on the old fuse panel have the wire color clearly marked/stamped beside the lug. This made it very easy to get all of the 12-volt circuit wires reinstalled correctly in the fuse block. The main hot wire and ground wire from the new converter were connected to the large lugs on the back of the fuse block. The red (+) cable from the battery was connected to the remaining positive lug on the converter. The black (-) wire from the battery was connected to the ground lug on the fuse block. After finishing the rewire, I check all of the circuits in the trailer except the tank sensors (tanks are removed at this time) and everything works fine with 110V connected and disconnected. In addition, the battery charged up more quickly than before. I haven't figured out what to do with the small gray wire with forked end yet. I'm not an electrician so if anyone sees a problem with this, please let me know.
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:51 PM   #24
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Oops, my bad!

Quote:
Originally Posted by batt View Post
So do I just wire the Red and Black lines into the 12v panel and it will then make the tank meters work?
Sorry to have created this confusion. I have found another post by Zepelinium of the 1975 wiring which could give you another picture of what's supposed to happen. I am not aware of any differences between the '74s and '75s. In the first photo, you see the face of the Univolt; the item in the bottom left corner of that photo is the shunt.

All the '75 wiring info you want but were afraid to ask.

He puts in shots of a lot of things, including the shunt and how the tanks are wired. Hopefully this gives you more info on where to go next.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:24 AM   #25
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I now get that it , the red, black and gray were all power on light and ammeter and now do not get tied into the circuits.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:39 AM   #26
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Old thread. Still...I have a '71 sovereign 31. I fixed mine by hooking up the blue wire to the car battery post on the univolt. The ammeter doesn't work(maybe because the shunt is gone),but it's hooked to the univolt on the 2 posts by the diagram. The battery check works,all lights work,and the water pump switch works. I don't have a "circuit 5",so I hooked to the radio circuit(just under circuit 4). Everything fired right up. I think the blue wire has a feed that goes to the unit,and provides power...at least that's a maybe. I only know 2 things about electricity...you can't see it,and it can kill you.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:44 PM   #27
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Has anybody figured out how to hook up or where to hook up the gray wire (forked connector at the end) once you change your fuse panel? I know the gray wire has something to do with the power light on the control panel.
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:17 PM   #28
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If you have yours wired like that in the drawing above and have the 55 amp circuit breaker in series with the battery positive then you are OK. The circuit breaker provides protection just as the fuse would.
Can you tell me where this 55 amp circuit breaker located?
I am having trouble with my Univolt (I think...) on a 73 Excella.
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