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Old 05-03-2016, 12:05 AM   #1
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Wiring questions for a Sport 22FB

I am in the planning process to add a "pure sign wave inverter" to my trailer to power two different Cpap/bipap machines while off "shore power". I have figured out the power requirements and will also be adding a 2nd battery to my unit. My question has to do with "wiring" the inverter.
The "battery cutoff switch" is located on the baseboard of the bed at the front of the trailer. The "electrical control panel" is located under the frig. at the "mid point of the trailer". There does not appear to be any "channel" available that I can "snake" my source leads for the inverter connection to the "electrical control panel" therefore I plan on placing the inverter near the back side of the "water heater" ....in the front storage area.

To keep things "simple":
Can I take my "positive lead" for the "inverter" off the "on position" of the "battery cutoff switch"? I would add a fuse between the "power source" and the "inverter". ( I am making the assumption that the "cutoff switch" disconnects the "positive lead" coming from the batteries"....am I right?)

After a brief review of the "user manual" wiring diagram it appears that the "negative" side of the batteries are grounded on the "trailer frame". Therefore for the "negative side of the "inverter" could I do likewise and ground it to the frame?

Option two:
Would it be better to run separate power cables to the "inverter" directly to the battery box? Or is there another "source" of DC power that I can tape into?

I am open to all possibilities....and thank to those to offer suggestions.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:42 AM   #2
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Providing that the wire that runs to the cut off switch is big enough to run the inverter, and the switch is rated to carry enough current to run your inverter, hooking the inverter supply to the switch should be fine.

Likewise the frame ground will be good enough, just make sure that you get a good clean and paint free connection.


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Old 05-03-2016, 09:57 AM   #3
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Wiring questions for a Sport 22FB

I don't know how big of an inverter you are going to run, but consider the power requirements for an inverter is going to be determined more by the maximum load you are going to apply to it than its rating.

For example, I run a 15 amp breaker on the 120 volt side of my inverter, meaning that the breaker will only supply 1,800 watts.

If I take this 1800 watts and add 20% for inverter overhead (360), I have a draw of 2160 watts on the 12 volt side, or a max of about 180 amps @ 12 V DC.

Even though my inverter is capable of producing more power than I have it limited to by circuit breaker, I do not need to wire it with the heavy cabling it calls for that assumes maximum output.

I do not have a microwave, and I do not run my air conditioner on inverter, but with this in mind, I have never tripped the 15 amp breaker in normal use. (My whole trailer can and often does run off of this inverter)

https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437


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Old 05-03-2016, 11:24 AM   #4
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I installed a Sure Sine 300 on the plywood divider between the hot water heater and the front section.
Although I have not ran a monitor control wire from the front to the closet I have ran AC wire thru there along beside the furnace duct.
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
I don't know how big of an inverter you are going to run, but consider the power requirements for an inverter is going to be determined more by the maximum load you are going to apply to it than its rating.

For example, I run a 15 amp breaker on the 120 volt side of my inverter, meaning that the breaker will only supply 1,800 watts.

If I take this 1800 watts and add 20% for inverter overhead (360), I have a draw of 2160 watts on the 12 volt side, or a max of about 180 amps @ 12 V DC.

Even though my inverter is capable of producing more power than I have it limited to by circuit breaker, I do not need to wire it with the heavy cabling it calls for that assumes maximum output.

I do not have a microwave, and I do not run my air conditioner on inverter, but with this in mind, I have never tripped the 15 amp breaker in normal use. (My whole trailer can and often does run off of this inverter)

https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437


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Thanks for your comments.
The inverter is a 1000 watt and requires 7 AWG wiring. I was going to up the the wire size to compensate for the longer leads if necessary and run thru a 200 amp fuse. I don't intended to use the inverter for anything more than the CPAP/BiPap machines but do hope to figure out how to get an extension lead back to the closet area to run the the tv.
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lhunter59 View Post
I installed a Sure Sine 300 on the plywood divider between the hot water heater and the front section.
Although I have not ran a monitor control wire from the front to the closet I have ran AC wire thru there along beside the furnace duct.
Since the "control" wire (inverter on and off) will be in the front storage area I don't see a problem with it's placement.

Where did you tape on to your power source? My inverter is a 1000 watts and requires at least 7AWG wire.

How (did you) run a wire back to the closet area from the the back side of the water heater? The cabinetry goes against the trailer wall and separates the water heater from the back area. Is there a channel that I'm missing that would allow me to pass ...say a pair of 4 AWG cables back towards the closet area?

Also , is there a power block....so to speak ....located in the storage area where the cables come into the trailer from the batteries?

Thanks for your comments.
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:07 PM   #7
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Rpatrick16: I run my CPAP directly on DC from the battery. If you go through an inverter you will have a lot of loss each nite. Look at your CPAP and see if the input to the unit is 12VDC? If it is there are DC power cords available for our CPAP, even those with heaters. I have done this for years and never have run the batteries down. You will only be using a few amps for each unit. Good luck and happy breathing.
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:44 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by guskmg View Post
Rpatrick16: I run my CPAP directly on DC from the battery. If you go through an inverter you will have a lot of loss each nite. Look at your CPAP and see if the input to the unit is 12VDC? If it is there are DC power cords available for our CPAP, even those with heaters. I have done this for years and never have run the batteries down. You will only be using a few amps for each unit. Good luck and happy breathing.
guskmg
Hi thanks for the reply. I agree wiith with
you and I did the same in the past. The problem is the wife's dc voltage is not 12v and we need to use the humidifiers at times.

I also want to run the tv for grandkids videos.

Appreciate your comment.
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Old 05-10-2016, 10:59 AM   #9
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22FB Sport Interior Battery Connections

Update:
For those 22FB Sport owners:
What I call the "dc power block" (where the battery cables come into the trailer) is located in the left front corner of the trailer. To get to it you need to remove the mattress and the plywood in the front section. You can see it ....partially....if you just lift the little plywood access panel. But, you can't really work on it.
Once the front plywood is removed you have complete access to the "power blocks". The one on the left is "DC Ground"...the right one is "DC Positive".
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