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Old 04-27-2007, 09:19 AM   #1
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Wiring for the 'AC On' LED

Hi,

I am planning a project to replace my old convertor with a new one and would like to retain the functionality of the AC on led. I have read the threads here about using a 12 volt wall wart to supply the led with power, but my question is in a 1979 trailer were the control panel led's 12 volt or do I need to put a resistor in series with the LED to limit the voltage to it and keep it from instantly burning out?

Steve
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:33 AM   #2
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Updating your convertor would have no effect on any of the lights in your trailer. Convertors are set to maintaiine the 12 volt batteries. Any lights that were operating off the 12 system will still be operating off the 12 volt supply.
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:45 AM   #3
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Steve,
No wall wart needed. I have a LED 110V night light in my bathroom. That's my 110 power on indicator. You can also get a a "110V LED" west marine has them.
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:59 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE
Updating your convertor would have no effect on any of the lights in your trailer. Convertors are set to maintaiine the 12 volt batteries. Any lights that were operating off the 12 system will still be operating off the 12 volt supply.
So are you saying that the old Univolt convertor output to the
AC on led was 12 volts?
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:30 PM   #5
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What I am saying is that just changing the convertor will not change anything within the trailer as long as you have not made any other wiring changes.

There are 2 electrical circuits in the trailer, 120 volt ac and 12 volt dc. The 120 volts system powers recepticals, the refridgerator heating element, the convertor, and the air conditioning.
The 12 volt system powers the trailer interior lights and the control system of the refridgerator.
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Old 04-27-2007, 01:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacnstac
So are you saying that the old Univolt convertor output to the
AC on led was 12 volts?
In my '73, there is a seperate set of wires that feed directly of the output/back side fuse panel area of the Univolt up to the control panel. This in turn feeds a tiny light bulb in the CP that lets you know the 12v is functional. Does that help? I have some pictures of that set up someplace if you need to see them.

I assume you are talking the "big blue box" univolt common in the '70's models?

Jim

On edit: I just re-read your question. Are you wanting a light that shows when the 12v Univolt is functionong, or, are you wanting a light that shows when the 110v is functioning? All of the devices in my CP are 12v. And to be honest, I don't think there anything there that shows 110v functionality on the CP.
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Old 04-27-2007, 01:40 PM   #7
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The univolt tell-tale output was/is 12V. The resistence is already in the diode panel so you don't need to add one. If you use a DC wallwart, get the polarity correct, if you use an AC wallwart, it doesn't matter which side you ground.
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Old 04-27-2007, 02:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excella CM
The univolt tell-tale output was/is 12V. The resistence is already in the diode panel so you don't need to add one. If you use a DC wallwart, get the polarity correct, if you use an AC wallwart, it doesn't matter which side you ground.
Thanks, that is the answer I was after.
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