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Old 11-29-2004, 03:54 PM   #15
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Wow, another good idea for a Christmas gift for Brenda
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Old 11-29-2004, 04:25 PM   #16
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If you have a chance, look at the amp/hour ratings of a high cranking amp 27, and a low rated one. The lower cranking amp rated one usually has a higher amp-hour rating, and it also contains more fluid by volume, so takes longer to boil dry, if that is a problem with your trailer. Also, the lower-rated one tends to have slightly more space between the plates, and therefore, less chance of the plates contacting each other. The lower amp batteries may also last longer, because as the battery is charged and discharged, small amounts of plate material tends to slough off and fall to the bottom of the battery. This can build up until the material from plate "A" touches the material from plate "B", creating a short, or a bad cell. The further the plates are from each other, the longer this will take, all other things being equal.
Terry
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Old 11-29-2004, 07:10 PM   #17
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factory Boondocker glassmat batteries

Does anybody know what batteries come with the factory Boondocker package? These are decribed as glassmat (AKA AGM) batteries. I wonder if they use any of the Lifeline models we were discussing earlier? That would help decide which of those would fit. Terry, if my understanding is correct the AGM batteries eliminate the boil dry problem.
Ken
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Old 11-29-2004, 08:35 PM   #18
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I wouldn't be surprised if they are the Optima brand AGM batteries, the most popular and widely known AGMs. These have spiral-wrapped cells, that are alleged to be more rugged than more traditional AGM designs. The problem is that the spiral-wrap design, which looks like a 6-pack, makes poor use of the Length X Width X Height. There's a lot of wasted air between the round cells So they have less lead and less capacity than a traditional design. You can see this comparing their Group 31 specs with the Lifelines or other AGMs. Worse yet, their Group 34 size, while having the same base dimensions as a Group 24, is shorter, meaning even less capacity. So they're best left to high-shock environments where amp-hours aren't as much of an issue. Another area in which they excel are in high cold-cranking amps. So they're better for starting big, high-compression, or high-pressure injection, engines.
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Old 11-30-2004, 01:45 PM   #19
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I was told that the batteries installed in golf carts, and the like, are of a more heavy duty type than the standard deep cycle battery.
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Old 12-03-2004, 09:00 AM   #20
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Optima yellow top hands down.
I have 10 of the things installed in various things (all 10 years old).
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Old 12-03-2004, 05:27 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the ponz
I was told that the batteries installed in golf carts, and the like, are of a more heavy duty type than the standard deep cycle battery.
They are, but they are also 6 volt, and twice as tall as the deep cycle batteries we all know and love.
Terry
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Old 12-03-2004, 10:42 PM   #22
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This guy say's it best. I printed it out and keep it in the bathroom. Musta read the thing like 100x's before I started to understand it and BAM... it's sooo simple.

http//www.phrannie.org/battery.html


I'm using two trojans (6v) and one trojan (12v) set on a switch using the intelli-power 9180 (80amp) output. I just finished the rewire of the whole trailer. I was down to the frame so it was easy to run the wire. I redid the 12v DC panel using a breaker system from West Marine ( Blue Sea Systems).
The panel is now in the front, and the intelli-power is also in the front. Very nice set-up with cd,dvd,17"JVCflatscreen, xm radio and 500w JL 4c amp. Ran the system today for the first time and had it all working pretty hard and ran it off my two 6's for about 12-15min, and the fan didn't even come on the intelli.
Radio is way to loud for an A/S but...... louder is better right. I switched most of the lights to the cold cathodine tube lights. The're not that brite even when they heat (if you can call it that) up. They use like no power though.
That website say's all you will ever need to know and more.
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Old 12-03-2004, 11:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiskIt
I'm using two trojans (6v) and one trojan (12v) set on a switch using the intelli-power 9180 (80amp) output. I just finished the rewire of the whole trailer. I was down to the frame so it was easy to run the wire.
I'm interested in why you have two batteries, two 6V and one 12V. Are you able to run them independently, so one bank is charging while the other is in use? It sounds pretty neat.
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Old 12-04-2004, 09:13 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
I'm interested in why you have two batteries, two 6V and one 12V. Are you able to run them independently, so one bank is charging while the other is in use? It sounds pretty neat.
I have the two 6's connected to make 12v (battery1) then a switch and the other 12v (battery2). The intelli will charge two batterys at once or just the one that needes it. Took me awhile to figure everything out (asked lots of questions)... but it realy works. I have the charge wizard working with the intelli-power and it changes up the charge to mix it up....

I have only just started using it and not sure if there are any bug's yet.

Best of luck
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Old 12-06-2004, 01:04 PM   #25
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Question re Concord battery and Iota converter/charger

We're thinking of installing a Concord AGM Group 31 battery with a 15-amp Iota converter/charger. May add a solar panel later. Does anyone see a problem with these 2 items? Can this converter replace the Univolt? (1975 Excella 500).
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:08 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gardener
We're thinking of installing a Concord AGM Group 31 battery with a 15-amp Iota converter/charger. May add a solar panel later. Does anyone see a problem with these 2 items? Can this converter replace the Univolt? (1975 Excella 500).
I think the Univolt put's out 45,50,55 amp's (not sure exact amount). The charger (part) only needs to charge your batterys and the converter (part) changes the 110ac (landline) power so you can use it on 12v stuff.
Example: If you bought a new LCD TV, you will see that the plug that goes in the wall of your house is regular, then there is a box (converter) it's changing your house power to 12v. power this is what LCD's run on - not the 110ac you actualy are feeding it with the plug in the wall.
I used this example because I have a 17" JVC LCD TV that I have in my A/S and it run's off the 12v. power off the batterys.

To finish up with the 15-amp converter..... probably not enough amp's. I have a 80amp Intelli-charger (probably over kill) but your suppost to add up all the power you can use in your trailer and that is the number you need + the ability to charge the batterys at the same time if needed.

There are people WAY better then me at this stuff, and it goes WAY over my head. If your univolt but out 45-55 amps you should stick to atleast that much (simple math )

Hope this helped....
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Old 12-07-2004, 06:57 PM   #27
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Thanks, RiskIt

We'll read through Phred's article, too.
Nancy
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