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Old 03-11-2009, 12:40 PM   #15
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arodriguez60's Avatar
1959 22' Flying Cloud
1969 25' Tradewind
1983 34' Limited
fairview , New Mexico
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 574
Images: 85
On my 69 tradewind I had the same problem. some of my lights weren't working. I traced it to the low voltage panel. one of the circuit breakers was open. I think there are three Hope this helps

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Old 03-11-2009, 02:41 PM   #16
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1967 24' Tradewind
Wickenburg , Arizona
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 546
I have a 67 Tradewind. Under the street side bed is the battery. Next to the battery is a fuse block with 2 old style 30 amp glass fuses one in the positive and one in the negitive 12v wire which goes to 3 circuit breakers. These 3 circuit breakers power my entire 12v system inside the trailer.I have had the circuit breakers go bad, they will show 12v but when you apply a load ( lights) the breaker will trip. They are auto resetting so you take the load away( turn off the light) presto- you have 12v again. The circuit breakers are available at auto parts stores. I got mine at Auto Zone- about 4 bucks. Adios, John

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Old 03-12-2009, 07:21 AM   #17
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1967 24' Tradewind
Bellevue , Washington
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 9
This is all good advice and yesterday I found out the local West Marine does carry tinned, stranded copper in 2 conductor if I need it. I don't want to re-wire if I can avoid it and the defender site has it a LOT cheaper. But the fact there is a local source AND they also sell quality (stainless) power and ground distribution blocks is great. My trailer has three places where the former owner set up power and ground distribution and and a couple of these look ancient and rusted and the connectors are discolored showing signs of excessive heat. I'm thinking that replacing these blocks may improve performance but are not the sole source of my problems....

My inspection yesterday revealed there is 1 stranded copper wire to the dining light fixture and when tested this showed continuity for both the positive and negative side to the skin/ground!!! Then I wiggled the wires and got no continuity so I added up my findings (Newer copper wire, short symptoms) and decided there may be an electrical nut that feel off hidden from view.

Now trying to figure out how to get that 1 inch center ceiling strip out so I can pull out the wires and inspect....Don't want to remove interior panel and rivets...just remove that strip. Does the strip SLIDE off or POP off? ANyone know? If it slides, I would have to remove the vent frame which is rivited in place..

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Old 03-12-2009, 10:40 AM   #18
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1959 18' "Footer"
Corpus Christi , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 104
Don, Another resource for the wire & connections etc is the auto performance sound equipment dealers. I found the tinned wire, fuse blocks & connectors were equal to the marine products and much cheaper. When I installed my DC system I purchased on line but you may find what you need at local dealers/installers.
Good Luck!

1959 "Globester"
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