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Old 08-25-2009, 07:01 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by meadowlm View Post
some one double check me, but here is how I would do it
Attachment 86046

Your schematic makes sense to me....if it's correct, then I have a working ammeter. I'll give it a try this afternoon.

I've done a lot of research on this matter, and many of the ammeter schematics/drawings I see have a positive wire from the battery going to one of the poles on the shunt. I'm pretty sure that I'll fry the ammeter, if I do that. I'm still not sure how load can be measured, when you have a Negative battery cable and trailer ground load wires connected, but if I understood it I'd be an electrical engineer, like my father....as it turns out I'm a pentaglot.
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Old 08-30-2009, 12:40 AM   #30
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Connected wires to external shunt

Okay, so today I decided to screw around with the ammeter and external shunt. I finally found my service manual and went out to the trailer prepared, along with the schematic provided by Will (Richard, your diagram is what was in my 1972 diagram, thank you btw).

I connected and tightened everything, went into the Sovereign to check the ammeter and............




Nothing. No movement, not a twitch, nada.

Does the ammeter measure in actual Amps or is it measuring in milliamps? Does anyone have a picture of a functioning ammeter I can take a look at? I am seriously considering sending my Univolt to NyCo and have them rebuild it, so I can put the damned thing back in. With my luck, the ammeter still wouldn't work.

Here's a pic of today's setup. The wire from the left lug of the shunt had to go to the ground strip, becase without it the compartment light was dim as hell.
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Old 08-30-2009, 05:47 PM   #31
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Bump.

Come on, members! Someone here has to be an electrical genius who can say, "Hey Stingray, you f'd it all up, here's what you need to do."


Anyone?
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:29 PM   #32
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Noone at all....seriously....
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:50 AM   #33
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I will check on my unit tonight and see how I can make the ammeter move by itself. This would verify that th ammeter is funtioning and all wires are connected at the ammeter itself.
For example, I wonder how many milliamps a voltmeter puts out.
I will check on mine and get back to you.
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Old 08-31-2009, 07:08 AM   #34
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Thanks. If I can confirm independently that the ammeter is working, at least I've gotten one part of the equation solved. I blew out the ammeter a few years ago, when I tried to hook the ammeter leads to straight 12v dc power....anyone remember that Muppet character Crazy Harry?....."Crazy Harry likes to play with electricity!", and then he'd shock the everloving shiite out of himself? That's me. I used to stick my finger in my nightstand light socket as a kid for fun...it never hurt, just tingled....not sure I'd do that now, but it gives you an idea that I'm not afraid to try something once.....just once, as Joe Piscopo said.

Anyway, I sent my ammeter off to a company in California, NyCo, and had them rebuild it for me. They tested it, after rebuild and confirmed it worked, but I never verified, because I don't know how. If I can't get the ammeter to work with the Iota converter I have now, I just may send my Univolt to NyCo and have them rebuild it to modern-day standards and just put it back in the Sovereign.
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Old 09-01-2009, 06:09 AM   #35
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I looked at my ammeter last night but didnt complete what I was looking to test. I will look some more tonight and let you know the results.
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:01 AM   #36
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No worries, thanks for taking the time to do this for me.
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:25 AM   #37
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You have 3 wires going to the big lugs of your shunt ... there should be only two. I suspect the wire on the right side of the shunt needs to go to the ground buss (the silver thingie in the middle with the black wire & short white wire on it. By the way where dose the black wire go/come from?) And then move battery - wire from the left side of the shunt to the right. If the black wire is also battery -, then you have 1 too many wires. you need to provide a little more info.
Bob
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Old 09-01-2009, 06:29 PM   #38
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Bob,

The black wire on the ground buss is the negative wire from the Iota converter. Like the picture says, if I didn't have that little wire going from the shunt over to the ground buss, my lights would be super dim.
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