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Old 08-17-2016, 08:41 PM   #1
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Voltage problem with 7300 converter

Just got a 2007 Safari LS 25FB. All kinds of electrical problems were traced, I thought, to bad batteries. Replaced the 12 deep cycle battery, everything worked great , until it didn't. After about 8 hours, voltage drop caused a lot of the 12v systems to drop off or fail completely. Voltage across the battery in terminals at the 7300 converter was only 9.5v. Disconnecting the battery resulted in output voltage from the converter, measured at the battery input terminals of the converter to be 8.6v. Interestingly, the voltage across the battery when disconnected from the trailer was still 11.5v. So, is the charging circuit of the 7300 shot? Can it be repaired? I only replaced one of the batteries, and removed the other one, since I was still trouble shooting. Planned to buy the other battery tomorrow if all was well, which it isn't. Any insight will be very welcome
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Old 08-17-2016, 08:59 PM   #2
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Sounds like the converter is bad. Probably not economically repairable unless you or a friend have electronic troublehooting skills.

Many on here have found Randy at Best Converter to be helpful. Give him a call.

Al
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Old 08-17-2016, 10:09 PM   #3
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Ac / dc

I would put money into a multi-stage charger (replacement) instead of trying to repair the 7300 single stage defective one.
In the mean time you can use an automotive style of battery charger to keep your batteries healthy.

If you haven't done so already, spend some time researching the topic on this site. There's a wealth of knowledge available.

Good Luck
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awkirch View Post
Voltage across the battery in terminals at the 7300 converter was only 9.5v. Disconnecting the battery resulted in output voltage from the converter, measured at the battery input terminals of the converter to be 8.6v. Interestingly, the voltage across the battery when disconnected from the trailer was still 11.5v. So, is the charging circuit of the 7300 shot?
Probably. (Troubleshooting electrical problems over the internet is notoriously difficult, and there could be other causes. Does your meter work reliably? Was there good 120v power to the converter? Is there enough air circulation that the converter did not overheat and shut itself off? Is it overheating internally because it's dirty? )

You could blow it out with compressed air, turn it upside down and shake it to see if a loose nut or screw comes out, be sure it's cool, and try it again if there's any doubt in your mind.

Quote:
Can it be repaired?
Maybe, but it's probably not worth it unless it's something really simple like a bad fan. You can get an equivalent replacement for a little over $100, and can use this as an opportunity to upgrade if you want.

Quote:
Any insight will be very welcome
Despite their shortcomings the 7300 was fairly reliable. A shortcoming of the widely-touted "3 stage" converters is that some are not especially reliable. Perhaps it just failed for no reason (it happens) but you might want to at least consider air flow or contact with a liquid or foreign object, and be sure that doesn't happen to the replacement unit.

The 3 stage chargers will charge the batteries faster. If that matters to you, and it might if you have a camping style where you run a generator for an hour a day in the morning while you make coffee, then by all means get one. They do not have any benefit for battery longevity unless they are temperature compensated and you install the temperature probe on the battery.
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Old 08-19-2016, 11:23 AM   #5
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Voltage problem with 7300 converter

Thanks to everyone for all the great info and suggestions. Since we're on the road now and nowhere near any service facility, I am trying to temporize the situation by replacing the two house batteries, both of which were bad (probably original 2007 equipment), and also added an electronic battery tender/charger that I got at a local NAPA store. Seems to be keeping the batteries up and the voltage across the 12v inputs to the 7300 is now for the first time above 11.5v, and my battery monitor, also for the first time, is in the green.
This is our first Airstream, and I am overwhelmed by the wealth of information and the generosity and helpfulness of those who participate in this forum. Many thanks

Allen
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Old 08-26-2016, 08:55 PM   #6
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Hi Allen,
I would watch those new batteries like a hawk until you upgrade. I always, (but only usually in your case since you're on the road and have no choice) recommend not buying new batteries until you get a modern converter with 3 or 4 stages. The Parallax 7355 is notorious for destroying many batteries. Don't let anybody tell you otherwise. I know this because I sell them. Why do I sell them too? Because some extended warranty companies will only let their clients replace with exactly what was in the coach when new so we have to buy time until it comes down to doing it right. Its just a plain and simple fact that a multi stage will serve you better and it doesn't matter if you boondock or not. Good luck.
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Old 08-27-2016, 01:14 PM   #7
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Just replaced the old 7355 12v converter in my airstream with a 4 stage charging one from BestCoverters.com. It also comes with an upgraded 12v distribution board with led lights that come on if circuit is not working. I got the remote charge wizard as well. Just hooked it up an hour ago. About a 2 hour job when moving slow. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-27-2016, 01:26 PM   #8
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You are missing the internal communication cable (ribbon style) that joins the DC fuse block to the converter board.


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Old 08-27-2016, 05:21 PM   #9
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You are missing the internal communication cable (ribbon style) that joins the DC fuse block to the converter board.


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Its not needed if you get the 4600 remote. In fact, there is no reason to even change out the fuse board on the 7355 or 8355 if you use the remote. It plugs right into the converter and has the exact same controls that are on the fuse board. Saves quite a bit of time in installation and brings the controls outside the panel so you immediately know in a glance what mode the converter is in without having to crawl around on the floor and open the panel door.
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Old 08-27-2016, 10:25 PM   #10
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I put the ribbon in now but yes I wondered where you plug in the remote. Do uninstall the ribbon and connect the remote direct to the converter or the dc distribution board?


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Old 08-27-2016, 10:43 PM   #11
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Failed 7300 converter; Randy's response

Randy,
Thanks for that info. I looked thru your website very briefly and will call you next week. But what are your recommendations for a "drop-in" replacement/upgrade for the 7300? Mine is mounted under the bed in the FB. Looks like a lot of options in equipment. Thanks again

Allen
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Old 08-27-2016, 11:14 PM   #12
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Voltage problem with 7300 converter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kemblkr View Post
I put the ribbon in now but yes I wondered where you plug in the remote. Do uninstall the ribbon and connect the remote direct to the converter or the dc distribution board?


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Remove the umbilical cable (ribbon, first time I've heard it called that) and plug the remote pendant right into the converter on that brown connector on the left that you connected the cable to. Discard it as you will never need it.
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Old 08-27-2016, 11:16 PM   #13
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Randy,

Thanks for that info. I looked thru your website very briefly and will call you next week. But what are your recommendations for a "drop-in" replacement/upgrade for the 7300? Mine is mounted under the bed in the FB. Looks like a lot of options in equipment. Thanks again



Allen

The Progressive Dynamics 4655 with remote. It's as drop in and plug and play as it gets. Nothing out there better for the 7355 or 8355. Thanks.
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:10 AM   #14
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Thumbs up Welcome Aboard....

The P-Lax 7300 does not know what to do with 'voltage', I learned this after replacing the original Interstates twice I when we got our Classic.

The IOTA 55a IQ4,(from Best), was a direct, easy upgrade.

Do it, whatever 3 or 4 stage converter you choose will be well worth the effort.

Bob
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