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Old 11-28-2016, 11:49 AM   #1
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2010 23' FB Flying Cloud
McMinnville , Oregon
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Using 110 during storage

I wold like to use a 110 (shore power) plug in my 2010 Bambi while storing it next to my house for the next couple of months. I run a 110 dehumidifying device because I live in the wet Northwest.

I'm not sure it is good for the 12v battery to keep it plugged in 24/7 and there is no way to run an extension cord into the trailer interior while it is closed up to keep the rain out.

Is there a way to activate the 110 plugs and not be charging the 12V battery?

Thanks for your thoughtful responses in advance.

Cameron
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Old 11-28-2016, 12:03 PM   #2
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If you have replace the original convertor with a 3 stage convertor it is OK. If not you will cook the batteries.
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Old 11-28-2016, 12:08 PM   #3
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Disconnect the batteries?


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Old 11-28-2016, 12:10 PM   #4
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I have not replaced but rather use a trickle charger if all I want to do is keep the battery up. Will it work if I plug into shore power and disconnect the battery?
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Old 11-28-2016, 12:30 PM   #5
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Does your Airstream have a Battery Disconnect Switch? I'm not sure about the earlier models, but on the later models putting the switch in the STORE position isolates the batteries from the converter/charger while hooked up to external power.

You will still need to charge the battery from time to time, and you could move the switch to the USE position to charge it, or use a separate charger.
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Old 11-28-2016, 01:37 PM   #6
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It does have a disconnect switch. I'll try that method.
Thanks to all how responded.
Cameron
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Old 11-28-2016, 06:15 PM   #7
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connected to 110 during winter

Hi there, I live in the NW too and run qty 2 dehumidifying devices due to the rain. I remove my batteries during the winter months keeping them in a cool dry place, keeps them clean and ready to go in the spring. Been doing this for years with no problems.

Lynn
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Old 11-28-2016, 06:29 PM   #8
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Disconnect the batteries (switch in "store" position; then put a $30 smart charger (which is a charger that turns off when batteries are charged and back on when they need it and which plugs also into external 120) on your batteries for the winter.
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Old 11-28-2016, 07:35 PM   #9
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Thanks for the helpful input. Looks like we might be in for a wet December in these parts.
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Old 11-29-2016, 11:32 AM   #10
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I have had my trailer hooked up to the house for years with the original converter/charger and no damage to the batteries.
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Old 11-29-2016, 11:34 AM   #11
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curnes.....My 2007 25' Safari's converter panel has a 120 v A/C circuit breaker designated for the converter. If your convertor is similar to mine you should have the ability to shut off the 120 volt A/C circuit breaker supplying power to the converter and it will no longer produce 12v DC power for the trailer and will stop charging the batteries.
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Old 11-29-2016, 11:41 AM   #12
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I also live in the PMW. I've updated my converter charger and this year I have a covered storage spot with power. How are you draining the water collected by your dehumidifier? Most dehumidifiers have an auto-off switch once their tank fills (I have two running in my basement right now and they need to be emptied daily.
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Old 11-29-2016, 11:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curnes View Post
I wold like to use a 110 (shore power) plug in my 2010 Bambi while storing it next to my house for the next couple of months. I run a 110 dehumidifying device because I live in the wet Northwest.

I'm not sure it is good for the 12v battery to keep it plugged in 24/7 and there is no way to run an extension cord into the trailer interior while it is closed up to keep the rain out.

Is there a way to activate the 110 plugs and not be charging the 12V battery?

Thanks for your thoughtful responses in advance.

Cameron
Curnes, I keep my 2012 30 FC plugged into 110 all the time while in storage. I leave the USE switch in the on position. So, my interstate 24s are 4 years old, have been on charge 24/7 using my stock single phase converter/charger and the batteries hold charge as good as when new. Many will say the stock converter will fry your batteries. Can't speak for them. But then they do not speak to my experience either. My suggestion, plug in and forget it. if your Airstream installed batteries do not last because if it, no big $ loss. You can then look to another converter, type of battery or way to run your dehumidifier etc.
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:33 PM   #14
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I also keep 110 plugged into my rig at home, keep a fan going and electronic bug repellents.

I added a hard battery disconnect:

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-ID220S-6...connect+switch


and an AGM (I have AGM batteries) tender to take care of the batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/BatteryMINDer...+minder+marine

By using these, I don't charge the house batteries with the on-board charger while in storage.
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:45 PM   #15
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We have switched out the original converter for a 3-stage version so we don't have to worry about it being plugged all the time ... any longer, that is.

Before we did the converter replacement we left it plugged in, BUT we also left the fridge on and the furnace or AC set for extreme high and low temps... We never had an issue with cooking the batteries pre-3-stage converter ... and, for what it's worth, I feel our good fortune is because there was always a draw on the batteries ... like there is when we are actually camping.
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Old 11-29-2016, 02:13 PM   #16
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The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging. The good news is both of these problems are avoidable.

To properly maintain and extend the life of your RV batteries you need to have a basic understanding of what a battery is and how it works. It’s very important to use the right battery for the type of application.

And remember the TERM: RV is still a universal term meaning either a trailer, motorhome or even in some cases a boat. EACH takes a different type of battery so just saying you're going to need an RV BATTERY is still missleading.

The battery used to start and run the engine is referred to as a chassis battery or a starting battery. Starting batteries are rated in Cold Cranking Amps (CCA). CCA is the number of amps the battery can deliver at 0 degrees F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts.

Trailers however, do not really care about cold cranking amps since they have no engine to start. For a trailer battery we need to be concerned with DEEP CYCLE batteries. True deep cycle batteries have much thicker plates and are designed to be deeply discharged and recharged repeatedly. These batteries are rated in Amp Hours (AH) and more recently Reserve Capacity (RC).

Absorbed Glass Mat, or AGM Technology, uses a fibrous mat between the plates, which is 90 percent soaked in electrolyte. They are more expensive than a standard deep cycle battery but they have some advantages. They can be charged the same as a standard lead acid battery, they don’t loose any water, they can’t leak, they are virtually maintenance free and they are almost impossible to freeze.

The life expectancy of your RV batteries depends on you. How they’re used, how well they’re maintained, how they’re discharged, how they’re re-charged, and how they are stored, all contribute to a batteries life span. A battery cycle is one complete discharge from 100 percent down to about 50 percent and then re-charged back to 100 percent. One important factor to battery life is how deep the battery is cycled each time. If the battery is discharged to 50 percent everyday, it will last twice as long as it would if it is cycled to 80 percent.

The life expectancy of a battery depends on how soon a discharged battery is recharged. The sooner it is recharged the better.

What does all of this mean to you? That depends on how you use your RV. If most of your camping is done where you are plugged into an electrical source then your main concern is just to properly maintain your deep cycle batteries. But if you really like to get away from it all and you do some serious dry camping you’ll want the highest amp hour capacities you can fit on your RV.

So before you go off and buy any chargers or unplug anything....FIRST find out what type of battery you have and then determine your course of action.

Good Luck!
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Old 11-29-2016, 02:47 PM   #17
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As 2dabeach sez, check your circuit breakers first. Your solution may be as simple as flipping open a breaker switch dedicated to the 12V converter. I plug into house power thru an extension cord from a garage outlet all the time, so I always have 110V available in the trailer. If battery charge is low, I just close the circuit breaker switch, thereby energizing the converter, until the charge comes up again. If you can't check your battery's charge level occasionally, do as other members have suggested. Disconnect the battery from the trailer circuits and instead connect it to a good quality trickle charger.
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Old 11-29-2016, 07:03 PM   #18
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Plugged into shore power

I keep my AS plugged in all of the time and have a as long as I have had it. No issues with the batteries at all using the original factory system. I wonder where the "sky is falling " folks get their information?
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Old 11-29-2016, 08:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobgoldstein View Post
I keep my AS plugged in all of the time and have a as long as I have had it. No issues with the batteries at all using the original factory system. I wonder where the "sky is falling " folks get their information?
the sky fell and hit my trailers, both of them

in the 99, 2 batteries in the last 11 months.
charge rate on the old converter was 13.9v full time.
new 4 stage converter and new battery last month.

similar in the 00, but two years ago.

hope the sky does not hit something else ;-)
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:42 PM   #20
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I'm like some of the other posters. I leave mine plugged in all the time and just turn off the breaker to the converter.
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