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Old 07-29-2007, 03:57 PM   #15
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You should buy a deep cycle RV battery. The wires from your univolt will work on a new charge unit. I bought mine at Inland RV. If your fuse panel is mounted on the front of the univolt you should buy a new one. If it is separate like mine was you can use the old one. The small white cloth covered wire is not used when you replace the univolt. It powered a red light at the back of the trailer.
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Old 07-29-2007, 03:58 PM   #16
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Smile Replacing univolt

You should buy a deep cycle RV battery. The wires from your univolt will work on a new charge unit. I bought mine at Inland RV. If your fuse panel is mounted on the front of the univolt you should buy a new one. If it is separate like mine was you can use the old one. The small white cloth covered wire is not used when you replace the univolt. It powered a red light at the back of the trailer.
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Old 07-29-2007, 05:34 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by mikeandbecky
Hi!
I'm looking for some advice on upgrading to a new converter in my '79 Excella 500, 31'. The old Univolt had been removed( no, the old fuse panel was not salvaged , and the wires were cut around it to free it for removal. What I have now is shown in the attached picture. From what I can tell, left-to-right:
120 AC wire to converter( with black electrical tape), solid copper ground wire to converter, then a small dia. grey wire, spliced into a black 12 ga.wire to the converter. (Not sure, but maybe this goes to the "Power On" indicator light to the control panel in the galley?) , then there is a shorter fiber insulated Positive DC lead to the converter, next to that is the longer Negative DC lead to the converter.
The black cable drooping in the back is a coaxial cable routed through from the TV antennea..
Does anyone know or forsee any problems when I connect the new converter to these leads? Im thinking of possibly a WFCO 45 Amp 9800 series, or maybe an Inteli-power with the built-in charge wizard? Can I hook up the AC to the AC and the Pos. DC to the Pos. DC, etc.. Or is there something that Im missing? I read an older post about fusing the Pos. battery lead to the converter in case of a short or surge? Should I do that?

Thanks for the advice in advance!
Ok,

Yes you can do everything you just said. What you want to make sure is that you have a 35-45 amp fuse between the battery and the charger. Take a look at this schematic. You don't need three fuses, but at least one will do. You'll probably need to buy a fuse holder and install it in a covered electrical box or something. I think that either of the choices you have made will be fine, as will Iota, and the OEM from Inland. I recommend that you think about going with a 55 amp unit, since your trailer is newer and bigger than mine, we did a 35 amp.

You will find out, when you buy a new converter, that it has a regular 110V AC plug for connecting to the trailer. You should install an outlet box, with outlet, in the cavity and then plug your new converter into it. Makes trouble shooting easy.
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Old 07-30-2007, 01:49 PM   #18
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Than ks for the suggestions and the help! I'll give it a try.

Mike
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Old 07-30-2007, 03:35 PM   #19
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I would recommend replacing those fiber insulated wires with new rubber insulated 6ga battery cable. It will have lots of very fine wires, making it nice and flexible. Many people install an on/off switch to the AC outlet that the converter is plugged into. That way you can switch it off and see on the control panel the state of the charge of the batteries. Another upgrade is to install a battery switching system: #1 or #2 or both off or both on. When boondocking, you can easily just use one battery at a time, and if one goes bad, it does not affect the other. On converter choice, we are using the WFCO 3 stage and like it alot. The old ferroresonant univolt weighed a ton! The new solid state converters can be picked up with a pinkie!
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