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Old 06-29-2011, 11:04 PM   #15
George
 
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Xantrex Truecharge experience?

Folks,

I'm thinking of replacing my Parallax 7455 (in 2007 Classic) with a more advanced Converter. After doing some research, the Xantrex Truecharge2, looks best on paper (although expensive). It seems the most flexible (different charge profiles), has temperature compensation and power correction factor.

I haven't seen any recent posts here, older posts have both glowing recommendations and some concerns about post-warranty service (claiming they're not repairable).

Anyone want to weigh in on these units? Anyone have experience with their service?
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:58 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by gwmc View Post
Folks,

I'm thinking of replacing my Parallax 7455 (in 2007 Classic) with a more advanced Converter. After doing some research, the Xantrex Truecharge2, looks best on paper (although expensive). It seems the most flexible (different charge profiles), has temperature compensation and power correction factor.

I haven't seen any recent posts here, older posts have both glowing recommendations and some concerns about post-warranty service (claiming they're not repairable).

Anyone want to weigh in on these units? Anyone have experience with their service?
I've been dealing with Xantrex for over 10 years and most if not all of their current product offerings are close to garbage and definitely throw-aways.

Look at the IOTA DLS55-IQ4 converter. I have been installing these for 3 years and have not had one failure. They are a true 3-stage automatic charger.
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Old 06-30-2011, 08:25 AM   #17
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Repairable?

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I have been installing these for 3 years and have not had one failure.
Thanks Lew. May I assume from your experience you don't know if they are repairable and what their service quality is. Maybe a moot point if you don't need service.

George
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:06 AM   #18
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Thanks Lew. May I assume from your experience you don't know if they are repairable and what their service quality is. Maybe a moot point if you don't need service.

George
I just removed a Xantrex 80 amp converter from a 28' CCD (it was a replacement for the P-Lax) during an inverter/charger installation and solar upgrade. The customer commented on how much quieter the cooling fans of the new inverter were compared to the Xantrex. Any converter is no match for the qualities and abilities of the battery charging section of a Magnum inverter/charger (made in USA!) and fully serviceable.

From initial inspection, It sure doesn't look like it is easy to get into the casing of this unit and I would assume that it is indeed a throw-away if in need of repair. You might check with Randy at Best Converter as he sells tham and might have a better idea of their repairability.
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:45 AM   #19
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Look at the IOTA DLS55-IQ4 converter. I have been installing these for 3 years and have not had one failure. They are a true 3-stage automatic charger.
Lew whacked that rivet....Had an "up-grade" Xantrex fail 8hrs out of the box.

The IOTA DLS55-IQ4 has worked sooper, no concerns at all, and it's very quiet, when the fan does come on you can barely hear it.
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Old 07-05-2011, 11:59 AM   #20
George
 
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Converter Ordered & Battery learnings

OK, based on feedback received, I ordered the Iota DLS55/IQ4 plus two Lifeline AGM batteries. That should get me fixed up.

I did some experiments over the camping weekend (boondocking, clouds and forest prevented solar panel from contributing much), and have some insights. Nice to have a Trimetric monitor to figure things out.

The power draw with "everything off" (i.e. just residual draw from fridge, water heater) is about 1.3 Amps. I found that my battery declined overnight from 12.3 V to 11.8 V, way too much (I think) for about a 15 Amp-hour depletion. So my batteries are nearing end-of-life.

When charging up with the Honda generator (and my stock Parallax) I only get about 8 Amps charging current. At that rate it would take close to a day to get batteries about full. So a good reason to buy a fancy converter and AGM batteries is to use a generator much more efficiently. (I.e. two hours at 55 Amps would make a huge difference).

Last, with the battery kill switch off, I still draw 0.2 Amps (still connected are the LP gas detector, battery monitor, breakaway switch and converter). At that rate, the battery will be dead in about a month (no power at my storage place). So I'm also installing a Perko battery isolator switch. Being left unpowered is supposedly not good for the LP gas detector as dust may accumulate that needs to be burned off, but that's the lesser evil.

George
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Old 07-05-2011, 12:04 PM   #21
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While the topic is controversial, some who question the safety benefit of the LP gas detector disconnect or remove them rather than installing a switch. They typically draw around 100 mA.

The breakaway switch should not draw power unless there is dirt bridging the contacts, in which case the simplest thing might be to just replace it.

Also, phantom draw is possible from the umbilical connector, if it gets dirty and wet, as may happen during storage.
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