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Old 11-15-2011, 10:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Bob,

It's really hard to tell exactly where your mod's are from the pic. Did you have to notch the frame back a little?

I know the 27 Lifelines are a bear to get out in our 03 Classic....started using one of these plastic scrappers to slide it over the d@mn hinge...may be a little easier for me as they do have a handle on the end.

Bob
Yes, if you look at the second photo, the bottom of the battery does not have a shadow there, it is notched out. Since the battery is at an angle going in, the back top of the battery hits the wall and the battery will not fit till you notch out that bottom frame. I also use a thin nylon cutting sheet over the battery when sliding it in or out.
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:31 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Kamiak View Post
I agree, the 27s are already a snug fit in the Classics, and taking on an additional in height with the 29s brings that positive terminal awfully close to the compartment frame on the way out. Any issues?
I use a set of these on all the terminals.

Bob
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:38 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamiak View Post
I agree, the 27s are already a snug fit in the Classics, and taking on an additional in height with the 29s brings that positive terminal awfully close to the compartment frame on the way out. Any issues?
when i posted this same issue i was told to slide the battery in pos terminal first with the neg disconnected. when the pos post is safe then you can connect the neg post. it works :-)

for added safety i use a sheet of some of that indestructible anti-theft packaging.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:42 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by richinny View Post
when i posted this same issue i was told to slide the battery in pos terminal first with the neg disconnected. when the pos post is safe then you can connect the neg post. it works :-)

for added safety i use a sheet of some of that indestructible anti-theft packaging.
Yes, it can be an issue if you're not careful. Never thought of turning them around. Will have to do that next spring.
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:29 AM   #19
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I understand if you want to put series 29 in the battery box you will have to raise the cover. Basically, you shim it with some pieces of steel and paint them. I didn't think we needed more than an upgrade to series 27, so I didn't go that far.

The fit is so tight, you either need batteries with handles or use a one of those thingies that fits over the terminals and creates a handle. I expect getting them in is a lot easier than taking them out.

Gene
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:00 AM   #20
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To Everyone,

Thanks for your help and advice. I think I'm going to stick with upgrading to 27's rather than 29s. I already have one new 27 and the box will accommodate two with their handles without having to increase depth.

I'll also look at replacing the converter with a better quality version.

The other reason is that experience tells me that I'll get enough extra capacity using 27s. We're not long-term boondocking, just dry camping in campgrounds without hookups--like Yosemite. While our rig came with LED ceiling lights, I replaced them with 10w halogens because we simply found the LEDs too harsh--blue white--for our eyes. Thus, we're just looking for enough juice in the box to get us thru long winter's nights with the lights on. Next day, mid morning we can fire up the Yamaha without irritating neighbors.

And ... by keeping the grp oem 24s, I can have a bit of spare capacity to connect in through the umbilical if needed.

Paul
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:07 PM   #21
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[QUOTE="Road Geezer"]...While our rig came with LED ceiling lights, I replaced them with 10w halogens because we simply found the LEDs too harsh--blue white--for our eyes.../QUOTE]

If you ever want to try LEDs again in the future, look for those that are labeled "warm white". I replaced a number of the halogens in mine with them and have been very happy. I agree, the standard LEDs produce a harsh light that borders on blue. In time, the price should come down and hopefully the warm white lamps will become more commonplace.
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:40 PM   #22
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I understand if you want to put series 29 in the battery box you will have to raise the cover. Basically, you shim it with some pieces of steel and paint them. I didn't think we needed more than an upgrade to series 27, so I didn't go that far.

The fit is so tight, you either need batteries with handles or use a one of those thingies that fits over the terminals and creates a handle. I expect getting them in is a lot easier than taking them out.

Gene
No modification necessary on the Classics. It's not too hard getting them out, you just need to be very careful that the positive post is away from the tab that the lock engages to. It is long enough to contact the positive post and give it ground while pulling the batt out. Makes nice sparks! Just need to make sure you pull straight out and not wiggle the batt side to side. I think installing the battery positive end first and keeping neg disconnected till the last minute will take care of that.

For me the extra 60AH is worth the hassle twice a year.
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:24 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
No modification necessary on the Classics. It's not too hard getting them out, you just need to be very careful that the positive post is away from the tab that the lock engages to. It is long enough to contact the positive post and give it ground while pulling the batt out. Makes nice sparks! Just need to make sure you pull straight out and not wiggle the batt side to side. I think installing the battery positive end first and keeping neg disconnected till the last minute will take care of that.

For me the extra 60AH is worth the hassle twice a year.

?? Ours is a Classic, and there was no way the size 29 battery was going in without cutting away some of the bottom aluminum. I had to notch out about 3/8". Maybe we have smaller boxes
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:41 PM   #24
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?? Ours is a Classic, and there was no way the size 29 battery was going in without cutting away some of the bottom aluminum. I had to notch out about 3/8". Maybe we have smaller boxes
Was it an Interstate battery?
Mine's a 30', but I think the front shell and boxes are the same?????
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:53 PM   #25
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Was it an Interstate battery?
Mine's a 30', but I think the front shell and boxes are the same?????
No, I'm using Ever Start from WalMart. I checked sizes, both say 13" long. Maybe I do have a shorter box? I know when sliding it in, I have to give it an extra push even with it notched out to get it in. Oh well,

I do want to stress to anyone putting in the 29's, be sure you have put in some kind of strap that you can use to pull the battery out with before trying in the battery. They are a tight fit! Not just to pull with, but also to lift with to get up and over the bottom frame.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:21 PM   #26
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I prefer to insert the negative terminal into the battery compartment first, following the rule that the negative is last on, first off in order to minimize sparks. The reason I prefer inserting the negative first is that I’m uncomfortable with getting my wrench and the positive terminal too close to the coach body. As an added precaution, I use a little Harbor Freight rubber-coated ratchet to tighten the lugs. The substitution of 29’s for 27’s is a great suggestion that I’m going to keep in the back of my mind if my camping habits change. Currently, we’re are not long-term dry campers, so the added amp/hrs from the 29’s wouldn’t be a great benefit, vis--vis the added dimensions, weight, and risk of shorting during installation/removal. Incidentally, last I checked, Interstate batteries are manufactured by Johnson Controls, same people that make Costco batteries, and just about everyone else. The dimensions, including weight, of the Costco and Interstate RV group 27 batteries are identical; consequently, rightly or wrongly, I’ve inferred that they are identical in all material respects, except price. I’ve been using Costco “marine-RV” “starting/deep cycle” batteries successfully for years. The group 27 Costco batteries are their “fitment code 14”.
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:10 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamiak
I prefer to insert the negative terminal into the battery compartment first, following the rule that the negative is last on, first off in order to minimize sparks. The reason I prefer inserting the negative first is that I’m uncomfortable with getting my wrench and the positive terminal too close to the coach body...
The negative - last on, first off rule is a practice originating from servicing a battery in a car. If the wrench were to slip and cross between the (-) post and ground, nothing would happen. The (+) cable can then be removed without the exposure for arcing unless one was unlucky enough to somehow get the wrench between both battery posts. That being said, we need to remember that in most cases we are working with a pair of batteries in parallel. Hopefully we remembered to switch off the converter to start with... The next thing to remember is that after removing the (-) cable, the (+) cable is still hot to ground even when removed from the battery as it is still connected to the other battery.
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Old 11-17-2011, 03:04 AM   #28
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good point about the second battery and converter keeping the post terminal of the first battery HOT.
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